Add Hubs To The Parts Shortage List

Guess I am not following you. I have pressed lots of bearings on and off axles but never done one of these. Sure looks like you could get behind the flange and press the hub out of the bearings? It had to go together. I know I just put the same 3.90 33 spline micros on my car but didn't pay that much attention. I guess I thought you bought new bearings vs the whole assembly. I will be in this boat someday as well. 

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I have a good used set I kept as spears if I can't find a match through an auto parts store. I'd be interested but I'm not desperate, yet. :lol:   So how much would it take for you to part with them? 

I use to run a set for 3 season then swap in a new set. Now I eat up a set in half a season. Something in the quality has changed. 
I wonder why they are failing so fast now. Before did they go bad after 3 seasons? Or did you just replace as maintenance? Are they actually tearing themselves up and the wheel gets loose?

 
If you couldn't get underneath with a large bearing spreader like pictured above a harmonic balancer style puller like this could possibly work as well. Add some heat if necessary.  Either way I could get those bearings out and replaced. 

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Guess I am not following you. I have pressed lots of bearings on and off axles but never done one of these. Sure looks like you could get behind the flange and press the hub out of the bearings? It had to go together. I know I just put the same 3.90 33 spline micros on my car but didn't pay that much attention. I guess I thought you bought new bearings vs the whole assembly. I will be in this boat someday as well. 
They should come apart like that.  Used to do it all the time when I was still wrenching.  You'd typically have to cut the inner race off nearest the hub face.  When you get it apart go to your local bearing supplier.  They will have catalogs from Timken/SK etc. that will allow you figure out the the exact part number per the inner and outer races.

 
Guess I am not following you. I have pressed lots of bearings on and off axles but never done one of these. Sure looks like you could get behind the flange and press the hub out of the bearings? It had to go together. I know I just put the same 3.90 33 spline micros on my car but didn't pay that much attention. I guess I thought you bought new bearings vs the whole assembly. I will be in this boat someday as well. 

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They should come apart like that.  Used to do it all the time when I was still wrenching.  You'd typically have to cut the inner race off nearest the hub face.  When you get it apart go to your local bearing supplier.  They will have catalogs from Timken/SK etc. that will allow you figure out the the exact part number per the inner and outer races.
That looks like you should just be able to press the old bearing out and new one in.  I don't see any evidence the races are on the actual inner/outer unit bearing parts (hub/flange?) unless the inner bearing has something like this going on.

 
That looks like you should just be able to press the old bearing out and new one in.  I don't see any evidence the races are on the actual inner/outer unit bearing parts (hub/flange?) unless the inner bearing has something like this going on.
These are double roller bearings, so the outer race is machine with lip in the middle to divide the ball tracks.  Typically when pressing the hub out the inner most bearings (balls) will bind to the outer race lip, holding the inside inner race with it.   The outer one, nearest the hub face, has nothing holding it, so it stays with the hub.  Quick work with a cut-off wheel to remove the stuck race.

 
These are double roller bearings, so the outer race is machine with lip in the middle to divide the ball tracks.  Typically when pressing the hub out the inner most bearings (balls) will bind to the outer race lip, holding the inside inner race with it.   The outer one, nearest the hub face, has nothing holding it, so it stays with the hub.  Quick work with a cut-off wheel to remove the stuck race.
Ah, word. 

Even still, @SANDPSYCHO said the race was integral to the hub:

I had someone else talk about rebuilding them but from the vedios I have see the races are not removable. They are machined into the part and heat treated. The rollers and cage are assembled on the part. I'm going to pull one apart and see just haven't got to that point yet. 
But it doesn't look that way, at least on the outer bearing.  Not sure about the inner since you can't see it.

 
If you guys aren't able to find replacements our 3-bolt micro stub kit is a bolt in replacement with serviceable Timken taper roller bearings.

 
I'm assuming there's an inner bearing as well?
Typically it's all in one.  What might be the case here is that the housing (3 bolt part) and outer race are one piece.  That would be tougher to find.  I imagine that Timken would still have a part number for it.

 
If you guys aren't able to find replacements our 3-bolt micro stub kit is a bolt in replacement with serviceable Timken taper roller bearings.
Good to know. I assume it has lip seals on both sides vs sealed bearings? And separate bearings and races to where you press each race in?  Price for a pair?

 
I just got off the phone with Bernie Bergmann, he says VW clutches are impossible to get 😞

 
when i went to get my 33 spline 930 bearings i found new corvette rear  ones were the same size 3.60 inch but bolt holes had to be increased from 12mm to 14mm. Being a mechanic I after my discounts it wasnt much cheaper than jamars so i went that route. Not worth the hassle to retap threads. The corvette hubs were expensive $$$

 
If you guys aren't able to find replacements our 3-bolt micro stub kit is a bolt in replacement with serviceable Timken taper roller bearings.
Kit? Is that everything or can I get just a bearing hub that would work with what I have. At this point if I have to buy more then a bearing hub I'm going to midboard and be done with this micro stub BS.

 
I wonder why they are failing so fast now. Before did they go bad after 3 seasons? Or did you just replace as maintenance? Are they actually tearing themselves up and the wheel gets loose?
I use to replace them every 3 years as maintenance, just so mid season I wouldn't have an issue. Then I had a set die in a season and a half and then another. So my plan was a new set every season but I'm eating a set in half a season now. The last 4 I have caught before they left me stranded. They get loose, push the rear pads out and your bake pedal hits the floor when you step on it. 

I've been told I running to much horse power but I use to dune with several guys that had the same hub and big blown LS motors that made more power then I have. I think they switch to a Chinese manufacturer but since you never get a box I can't say for sure.

 
Kit? Is that everything or can I get just a bearing hub that would work with what I have. At this point if I have to buy more then a bearing hub I'm going to midboard and be done with this micro stub BS.
It is a whole kit stub axles, bearing carrier, hub, caliper etc. 

I totally understand just wanting to go to center boards at that point.

 
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