1967 Dodge A-100 Hot rod sort of rat rod build thread.

Here are pics of the v-drive, Casale told the owner that the v-drive he is using will handle 3500 hp and the top fuel boats put a lot more stress on the v-drive than the slicks he will be running on the street. The drive shaft is in the center of chassis as well as the diff. There is a carrier set up on the drive shaft to take the angle off the drive shaft so it is parallel with the ground from the back of the cab to the diff.

a100 chassis.jpg

a100 diff.jpg

a100 v drive.jpg

 
1tonfun said:
Here are pics of the v-drive, Casale told the owner that the v-drive he is using will handle 3500 hp and the top fuel boats put a lot more stress on the v-drive than the slicks he will be running on the street. The drive shaft is in the center of chassis as well as the diff. There is a carrier set up on the drive shaft to take the angle off the drive shaft so it is parallel with the ground from the back of the cab to the diff.

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Wow that is a crazy insane build! Thanks for sharing it.

 
1tonfun said:
Here are pics of the v-drive, Casale told the owner that the v-drive he is using will handle 3500 hp and the top fuel boats put a lot more stress on the v-drive than the slicks he will be running on the street. The drive shaft is in the center of chassis as well as the diff. There is a carrier set up on the drive shaft to take the angle off the drive shaft so it is parallel with the ground from the back of the cab to the diff.

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I guess as much as I am leaning towards the Dobbertin mounts and C5 running gear I need to keep my options open and still consider this. HP is limited with the Corvette 4L60E Auto trans and then diff. With the v-drive I could front and back half it then build frame connectors between. Keep the 9" in the rear and beefy. I will give Casale a call. https://www.casalev-drive.com/about.html

Other thing I have been reading on is the patina finish for this truck. Don't want to leave it this rusty and continue to deteriorate. I am afraid to rub on it and ruin it. Different opinions out there about spraying clear, or linseed oil, or CLR, or rubbing with some scotchbrite then ZEP.  :doh:   Wish I could just not touch it. One painter did tell me exactly that. Just leave it.

 
Talked to our detail guy that does customer and personal cars as well as the body shop we send stuff to. I prefer it and they both agree I can leave it and not touch the rust. Love it. I am sure those rusty panels will out live me. 

 
Did talk to Andrew Casale today about the V-Drives. Cool idea but these really are made for boats. They are water cooled by the lake and have very little oil in them. For the street you really need additional fluid for oil and water along with coolers. To many systems to put in place. There is also going to be some additional drive train loss reversing that energy with gears 180 degrees. Sound like it could be up to 10% but hard to say. 

 
onanysunday said:
Talked to our detail guy that does customer and personal cars as well as the body shop we send stuff to. I prefer it and they both agree I can leave it and not touch the rust. Love it. I am sure those rusty panels will out live me. 
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The fun will be when you start to try and weld to these rusted areas. Like where you talk of raising the front wheel boxes. Might want to take a close look and make sure you have some clean material to work with.

 
richard h said:
The fun will be when you start to try and weld to these rusted areas. Like where you talk of raising the front wheel boxes. Might want to take a close look and make sure you have some clean material to work with.
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The only place I will get into the exterior patina will be the bedsides. From the frame there will be brackets and I will need to go from the outside in with carriage bolts and nuts. Put a little brown paint on those. Those front wheel wells are all inside the cab and that metal is in good shape for welding. 

 
So an RPM stage 7 auto trans is around $5k. An RPM stage 5 rear Corvette diff is close to $4k. I am just curious exactly what the Mendeola SDR5 is and a price for one. https://rick486.wixsite.com/dobbertinperformance/copy-of-08-type-iii-mid-engine  I assume it would have the sequential shifter and cables like my S4 in the Funco? Transaxle would move the weight even further back vs the vette A4 auto and C5 diff. (Not sure if that would be good or bad in this truck) Fuel tank would have to go most likely in front of the engine under the bed between the frame rails. @Sean@Weddle   I think you mentioned S5 earlier and maybe that would be plenty to handle what I am doing. What are current rough prices and options for these transaxles?

 
1 hour ago, Don Parscale said:

About half way thru there is a Corvair truck with a LS motor.  DON~~~





 
Unless I went with a transaxle  :classic_blink:  He says 500 HP and 475 lb TQ. I am still thinking how cool 4 little T2 turbos would sound. Sucks I can't start cutting on this truck!



 
35 minutes ago, onanysunday said:

Unless I went with a transaxle  :classic_blink:  He says 500 HP and 475 lb TQ. I am still thinking how cool 4 little T2 turbos would sound. Sucks I can't start cutting on this truck!

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I had one of the first Mindy 5 speeds, never had one problem with it. DON~~~

Dons pictures 436.jpg

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Talked to Rick Dobbertin this morning and he will be doing a run for the adapters soon. Think I will go ahead and buy a set while I can get my hands on them.

Also talked to Jeremy at RPM Transmissions.  I have a price for their stage 7 trans and stage 4 rear diff. They build the trans with the correct input shaft to bolt it all together. Includes the bellhousing. Probably put a 373 gear in it. And buy a 3000 stall converter from them as well. Then CVs and axles from another vendor. Still have not ruled out a transaxle though. 

 
Oh and forgot he is currently not narrowing the cradles. Just do it yourself which seems pretty easy to do. We have a great aluminum welder in the shop. 

 
onanysunday said:
So an RPM stage 7 auto trans is around $5k. An RPM stage 5 rear Corvette diff is close to $4k. I am just curious exactly what the Mendeola SDR5 is and a price for one. https://rick486.wixsite.com/dobbertinperformance/copy-of-08-type-iii-mid-engine  I assume it would have the sequential shifter and cables like my S4 in the Funco? Transaxle would move the weight even further back vs the vette A4 auto and C5 diff. (Not sure if that would be good or bad in this truck) Fuel tank would have to go most likely in front of the engine under the bed between the frame rails. @Sean@Weddle   I think you mentioned S5 earlier and maybe that would be plenty to handle what I am doing. What are current rough prices and options for these transaxles?
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Please shoot me an e-mail for a quote. sean@weddleindustries.com

 
Sean@Weddle said:
Please shoot me an e-mail for a quote. sean@weddleindustries.com
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Thanks Sean. I ended up talking to Bill at AZ Transaxle today. He has built many a broken trans for me. I am going to stick with the Vette 4L60 auto trans for this project. 

 
Bed is 86" and Rick says he remembers the package being around 60" from the front of the engine to the rear wheel centerline. The front of the pulleys on the AC and Alternator, PS are going to be very close to the back of the cab. It will be interesting. Not sure where the fuel tank will go. I thought it might be cool to have two tanks and two separate tunes on the motor. One for 91 premium and one for Flex 50/50 gas and ethanol. Could be done with the Holley computer.

 
Small block and a 2 speed powerglide. Pretty cool.



 
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