1964 Dodge A-100 Hot rod sort of rat rod build thread.

onanysunday said:
I like the rough size of that filter. That is a 3" and my turbo is a 4". So similar size just a little bigger. Think I will call K and N tech department and talk about airflow. Lot of CFM at 600hp. 
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Damn. I saw 4" flange and thought it was correct. It's 4" O.D. but 3" I.D. K&N should have something that should work. I agree that I would prefer an air box but as a street rod, the filter might work. Will heat be an issue? It's not the hot side but still gonna be hot. As an aside, a 4" tube with pie cut bends would make a nice attention getter to draw the eye and get you the space you need for a standard clamp on filter. An air box might detract from what you want to do and would need to be close to ideal in size for the motor to pull from without giving unwanted characteristics like surging off idle. 

 
onanysunday said:
So the intent was not to make each weld airtight but those joints are welded very well. Even if there was a pinhole it would just go to the next angle piece in the frame and that cavity. No way two of those in succession leak. I will drill each one and put some pressure on it with a gauge. Brilliant!!  :dude:
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It's an idea that's been used for fluid since at least the early 1900's so not mine but I'll be stoked for you if it works. Teeing the two together should work just fine. If you can weld both sides airtight, a connecting tube should be no problem. The air will introduce moisture into the frame rails. Will that be a problem?

 
To each his own, but I hate thos pie cut tubes.  Looks to me like someone could not read a catalog and order the correct radius bend...  

 
Again...  to each his own, but imo, they were always stupid....  

 
I still think their dead sexy. A set of hand coned pipes on a banshee is still a thing of beauty. 

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Fireballsocal said:
It's an idea that's been used for fluid since at least the early 1900's so not mine but I'll be stoked for you if it works. Teeing the two together should work just fine. If you can weld both sides airtight, a connecting tube should be no problem. The air will introduce moisture into the frame rails. Will that be a problem?
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Inside of each frame rail is bare steel.  Hmmm. 

 
Put a drain in the low side of each tube and drain it each year when you do the oil change. 

You could put a water trap between the pump and the tank to help remove anything before it gets into the tank. 

Ehat part of the year is it really humid.  That would be the part rhat would concern me the rest of the year it's pretty dry.. 

 
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onanysunday said:
I am out of room underneath the truck and need to somehow fit an air tank. This one that came in the kit I don't think I have a place for it and might need to make something. I would assume as long as I have the volume any shape is fine? I will also need to fit two oil coolers. One for the motor and one for the trans.

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Not sure if it will match the look of your truck, but what if you made a smaller air tank that looked like an old school gas tank mounted on the front of the truck, like the old drag cars?

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WheresHotBoat said:
Not sure if it will match the look of your truck, but what if you made a smaller air tank that looked like an old school gas tank mounted on the front of the truck, like the old drag cars?

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I like the tanks on the old gassers but trying to keep the exterior clean on this thing. It would really stick out and I don't think it would look right.

 
I don't want to deal with rust and moisture inside those frame rails. Potential future problems. Sure was a great idea. High pressure tanks are limited in the shapes and sizes they are made. This may be an option. 14"x7" and might just fit in front or behind that front cradle down low. Made of steel but coated on the inside for rust protection. Easily replaced in 5 years. Made for air horn and air bag setups. 4 gallons which I think that is what my long aluminum tank is now. 

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Pretty sweet. Using a wood chisel I had to hand scrape for those bottom pieces. Full hard day of work just to get this piece mounted. Including going down and buying Allen bolts. Ended up having to get some metric bolts that were the right length. I like it.

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I like how unscientific the dimension is between the slave cylinder and the hydroboost. I guess you just have to put it together and see how it does. You are plunging that puck way in there so no way to measure it. I don't like the little metal brackets that came in the kit so I'm going to stick with the .160 heavy steel 4 bolt bracket every truck in the world has on it. Then I will build around it. Luckily one of the guys in the shop has the cool guy little measuring device to set the depth of the bullet inside the master. I set it at .050 clearance. Have to be very sneaky on it and not take too much off.

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Forgot to add Master cylinder is for a 1967 corvette. Just went with an old cast iron unit instead of a wilwood. Should last forever.

 
Bobalos said:
I thought that was where the IC was going?
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It is. Look at the fourth photo looking straight down. The air will come past the hydroboost to the intercooler. Lots of space around it for plenty of air. My next project is to build a metal frame under the intercooler itself. It will have eight of these rubber isolation dampers. Then I bought a piece of 2x2 x1/4-in wall aluminum tubing. That will all get cut down and then eight pieces will get welded on to the intercooler.

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Sitting here wondering how much these rubber mounts are going to settle over time before I weld tabs on. Probably give a little extra versus not enough.

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We used to use those at work, but stopped because the bolt does not go all the way through. 

After a bit of time and a good bump and they rip.  Mind you our application is way different.   We changed over to through bolt types. 

 
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