1964 Dodge A-100 Hot rod sort of rat rod build thread.

Probable what and all you will run in to is the window will not lower all the way down. I take it your idea is to do this on the inside of the outer door skin. Leaving the outside of door and dog leg of the body looking stock?
Correct. Exterior patina can't get Disturbed.

 
Correct. Exterior patina can't get Disturbed.
Larger front wheel/tire, with the same dog leg and outside door, will you run into clearance issues when turning, or have very limited turning? Guess you can gain some by narrowing front trac.

 
Larger front wheel/tire, with the same dog leg and outside door, will you run into clearance issues when turning, or have very limited turning? Guess you can gain some by narrowing front trac.
At the top of this form you can see the tire sizes they used on this 66 Chevy van setup. I am looking at similar size tires except 18" wheels vs. 15". Tire height is still in the 25-25.5" range. Tires I am looking at running are: Front - Proxes R888R - 255/35/R18. 25" diameter. 10.2" wide. 8.5-10" wheel. 18" TSW Bathhurst wheel 18x9.  Rear - Proxes R888R 315/30R18. 25" diameter. 12.6" wide. 10.5-11.5 wheel. Bathhurst wheel 18x10.5. So yes the width is set when the frame is built. Same in the rear with the 9" rear end.  I will hate buying tires and letting them sit for a year or two while building the truck. Part of the deal. 

A100 Chassis drawing.jpg

 
Well .... Sitting here running the numbers the low Nada value is $10,350. So my fees to go the Vermont title route will be $697.00. It will take longer but thinking I will look into the AZ bonded title route. Thought that was around $300. Vermont title route still takes a month and pretty sure az will take a couple of months. 

Original MSRP
Low Retail
Average Retail
High Retail



Base Price
$1,927
$10,350
$23,900
$58,100



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Total Price
$1,927
$10,350
$23,900
$58,100

 
15 hours ago, onanysunday said:

Stage 2 or stage 3 Sloppy cam. I will probably lean toward the smaller cam for more low end power. Depends on the trans and rear gear. It will get a stall converter. Probably around 2800. And yes the exhaust from the the turbo and BOV will be short! My neighbors will love it. 

curious why the 4.8 motor?

 
curious why the 4.8 motor?
I have a used 70k 4.8. Plan is to pull it apart. Glass bead the pistons on the rods. Touch hone the cylinders. Set the end gaps on the rings wider for boost. Deck the block and heads if needed.  ARP rod bolts for the stock cracked rods.  Polish the crank and hopefully use the same bearings. Install the new cam with springs. Add boost. 



 
Air suspension, air up to get over the curbs, air down for car shows. You could also do a bed cover that raises and lowers to expose the running gear. DON~~~

 
You could also get it finished then apply for a special construction title which you can show the bill of sales for the body parts. I did this with a VW powered jeep I built from scratch. I built a tube frame with surplus jeep body parts.  DON~~~

New pictures 044.jpg

New pictures 045.jpg

 
Motor and a huge takeout Dodge intercooler from a diesel truck. Thinking about trying to incorporate this into the back. Part of it would hang below the bed. Put a couple fans on it for cooling. I might try to put the radiator in the back running long ways along the bed like the intercooler. I like that it is Mopar and need to save the sticker on it.

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I love the hand built rear bumper on it. I could easily make one to match for the front but I don't know how I would even come close to getting patina to look like this.

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Well after doing some measuring it looks like with the length of the motor and transmission and how short the truck is the motor is going to be in the same location as a stock V8 in these trucks. Intercooler will get mounted sideways along the bed in front of the wheel well. Thinking I'm going to put the radiator clear in the back in front of the tailgate. Battery will go in the back. Fuel tank behind the rear axle. And maybe incorporate some weight back there just like the factory did.

 
On 9/5/2022 at 4:18 PM, onanysunday said:

I have a used 70k 4.8. Plan is to pull it apart. Glass bead the pistons on the rods. Touch hone the cylinders. Set the end gaps on the rings wider for boost. Deck the block and heads if needed.  ARP rod bolts for the stock cracked rods.  Polish the crank and hopefully use the same bearings. Install the new cam with springs. Add boost. 

i was flipping thru marketplace and see daddy dave from street outlaws put up a 2wd with a turbo 4.8l for sale, thanks for the answers.

 
Hope you know a good sheet metal guy.  Cool project.
That will be me. Never done it but will learn. lol. AZ Bonded title is going to take 3-6 months. Not going to do anything until I own it. Tomorrow I will take it down and start that process. Then it gets parked. Sucks to have to wait. I want to play with it! This will be a mega project. Lot of work to build.  Looks like a slight adjustment on wheel and tire sizes. 17x8.5 wheel in the front with a Toyo 245/35-17 (not an r888 but a tire with a 200 compound) and back a 18x10.5 wheel with a 305/35-18. That will be the 888r with a 100 compound. That front tire is 1" shorter. Every little bit on the front end is going to help. 

 
I can cut into the doors about 2 in and still not get into the window mechanism or door latch. Or at least the door latch rod might need a little bit of reengineering. All of the metal in this area is in good shape so I have something to weld to once I start cutting. The front track might be slightly narrowed but I think it will work. I am guessing I'm going to need to move that well up by 6". After sitting in the truck probably will have to have some sort of lay back seat versus straight up. And re-engineer all of the steering which I'm probably going to have to do anyway. Nice thing about a 17-in wheel up front is I can still put big brakes on it when I order the chassis. So in the second pick picture the wheel well coming out just to where the edge of the VIN tag is. I would say around 2 in. Then going up in height 6 in.

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