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Looking for any ideas.
Honda 3.5 A4 motor runs great until it gets to operating temperature. The fans will come on and the motor will not rev over 3000 to 3200 rpm. Acts like its hitting the rev limiter. Once it cools back down it runs fine. Any ideas or anybody had similar issues with theirs?
 
Looking for any ideas.
Honda 3.5 A4 motor runs great until it gets to operating temperature. The fans will come on and the motor will not rev over 3000 to 3200 rpm. Acts like its hitting the rev limiter. Once it cools back down it runs fine. Any ideas or anybody had similar issues with theirs?
Helped a guy with a similar issue once. He was convinced it was the ECU, so I sold him one. Problem went away...
 
Thanks. we will swap it out with another we have and see if it works.
 
How often or when do you guys change intake gaskets? Till they leak?
 
Water lines when using an aftermarket water neck...and I know I need to figure out the water temp and fan sensor locations...

After talking with @Kraut_n_Rice It's my understanding that the two outers on the cylinder heads should go to the top of the radiator (hot water in) - and the center inlet should be the "cold" water out from the radiator.

Curious on opinions - Wondering if I T the two cylinder outlets (-16AN T) - and then use a -20AN for the inlet on the center - or just stick with -16AN for everything.

I might also just use the typical 1 1/4 for the host inlet and 1 1/2 for the outlet...and ditch the AN fittings. Still debating cost / looks / etc.

In the cars I've seen in the dunes, it's a mixed bag of what people have done.

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new question for the Honda thread, I have a J35a4 V6, would a J35a1,A2,A3, A6 short block be a direct swap? using all the top end and accessory drives and flywheel from my A4 short block?
 
new question for the Honda thread, I have a J35a4 V6, would a J35a1,A2,A3, A6 short block be a direct swap? using all the top end and accessory drives and flywheel from my A4 short block?
The easiest on would be the A3. The A1 has a different oil pump cover and belt tensioner. There is no A2. The A6 is second gen, all different chit.
 
Seached the forum and this thread (hard with so much good info), but looking so see what temps everyone is running at. My j32a1 seems to run hot as hell to me. Others say its normal. When running hard (with fans on) I see 220-230. Others have told me they rarely see over 190. My fans kick on right before 210 which I know is accurate from what I have researched.

NA, 5 seater, lightweight a-arm car. I see these temps whether is 90 degrees or 50 degrees outside and just me or fully loaded. I noticed I didn't run as hot last weekend, but I wasn't leading and with a new group of cars that ran at a much slower pace than what I am used to. Should I be changing out my tstat to a lower temp tstat? Or am I running at normal temps? Appreciate the help!
 
Seached the forum and this thread (hard with so much good info), but looking so see what temps everyone is running at. My j32a1 seems to run hot as hell to me. Others say its normal. When running hard (with fans on) I see 220-230. Others have told me they rarely see over 190. My fans kick on right before 210 which I know is accurate from what I have researched.

NA, 5 seater, lightweight a-arm car. I see these temps whether is 90 degrees or 50 degrees outside and just me or fully loaded. I noticed I didn't run as hot last weekend, but I wasn't leading and with a new group of cars that ran at a much slower pace than what I am used to. Should I be changing out my tstat to a lower temp tstat? Or am I running at normal temps? Appreciate the help!
Try one of these.
 
I felt like if my fans didn't come on until 205 or 210 I would be playing catch up trying to get the temp down, so I put my fans on a manual switch.
What are your radiator and fan sizes? Is it getting good air flow or are there obstructions? My 2 seater runs in the 190-195 degree range. No idea what thermostat is in it. It seems like with your fans running, you should be able drop below that 220-230 as tstat would be open and flowing free.
 
My car runs between 180-190. Fans come on at 195 and stay on for most of the run.
 
I felt like if my fans didn't come on until 205 or 210 I would be playing catch up trying to get the temp down, so I put my fans on a manual switch.
What are your radiator and fan sizes? Is it getting good air flow or are there obstructions? My 2 seater runs in the 190-195 degree range. No idea what thermostat is in it. It seems like with your fans running, you should be able drop below that 220-230 as tstat would be open and

I felt like if my fans didn't come on until 205 or 210 I would be playing catch up trying to get the temp down, so I put my fans on a manual switch.
What are your radiator and fan sizes? Is it getting good air flow or are there obstructions? My 2 seater runs in the 190-195 degree range. No idea what thermostat is in it. It seems like with your fans running, you should be able drop below that 220-230 as tstat would be open and flowing free.
Just the rear seat, but I feel like it’s got enough air flow. See pic. I don’t have a windshield or any other major obstructions. It has fresh coolant too. Running (2) 12” fans. I like the idea of having a manual switch to get a head start at keeping the temps down.

The fans do help drop the temps but I’ll still have to let out to really get the temps back down.



My car runs between 180-190. Fans come on at 195 and stay on for most of the run.
Did you put a lower temp tstat in your car?
 

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Just the rear seat, but I feel like it’s got enough air flow. See pic. I don’t have a windshield or any other major obstructions. It has fresh coolant too. Running (2) 12” fans. I like the idea of having a manual switch to get a head start at keeping the temps down.

The fans do help drop the temps but I’ll still have to let out to really get the temps back down.




Did you put a lower temp tstat in your car?
I don’t run a thermostat so it does take a bit to warm up.

Where is your sender for your coolant temp gauge?
 
I don’t run a thermostat so it does take a bit to warm up.

Where is your sender for your coolant temp gauge?
That’s what I figured what a lot of people do. Do you run a freeze plug with a hole drilled or just straight not tstat?

To be honest, I’m still learning. So bear with me. I see all of these sensors going into the coolant housing on the motor. Not sure which sensor is which yet. See pics
 

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The easiest on would be the A3. The A1 has a different oil pump cover and belt tensioner. There is no A2. The A6 is second gen, all different chit.
A friend of mine bought a j35 that got damaged in shipping. Bent throttle body inlet, broke a sensor off and a crack on valve cover. Has the 3.0 style intake on it. Looks like something fell on it. He probably got insurance money from the shipper. Instead of shipping it back or sending repair parts out he got money refunded and guy said keep the motor or throw it away. Another friend has a turbo j35a3 that broke a rod. Can I pull the heads and intake off that and put it on the j35 and have a decent motor. Or is the early j35 not worth it at all?
 
That’s what I figured what a lot of people do. Do you run a freeze plug with a hole drilled or just straight not tstat?

To be honest, I’m still learning. So bear with me. I see all of these sensors going into the coolant housing on the motor. Not sure which sensor is which yet. See pics
So those are all OEM sensors. Where are you getting your temp reading from?
 
So those are all OEM sensors. Where are you getting your temp reading from?
I’m going to have to dive into the car more. I’m not sure where it’s taking the reading from. I have a stock ecu and haven’t dove into the wiring yet. Is there something I should be looking for?
 
I’m going to have to dive into the car more. I’m not sure where it’s taking the reading from. I have a stock ecu and haven’t dove into the wiring yet. Is there something I should be looking for?
What are you using for gauges?
 
A friend of mine bought a j35 that got damaged in shipping. Bent throttle body inlet, broke a sensor off and a crack on valve cover. Has the 3.0 style intake on it. Looks like something fell on it. He probably got insurance money from the shipper. Instead of shipping it back or sending repair parts out he got money refunded and guy said keep the motor or throw it away. Another friend has a turbo j35a3 that broke a rod. Can I pull the heads and intake off that and put it on the j35 and have a decent motor. Or is the early j35 not worth it at all?
Sounds like the one that got damaged is a A1. All the A3 stuff will swap right over. In some people's opinion, that is the best mix of OE parts.
 
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