Which CV grease to use?

I use whatever the Kartek Buggy guy gives me.  I do my CV's every 50 days of duning, I have never had to replace any CV ever.

 
I run swepco/belray same way LRS does since I put an LS in my car with 930's and no complaints. Before when I had a honda 3.5 and EMPI 930 I used to run the cheap red n tacky and pretty good luck but I did them 2x a year with 15-18 weekend trips, it would get a little runny but didn't wear much on the CV. Ran the 164 once and thought it was worse than the red n tacky.
 
I have always been a 50/50 swepco 101 /belray fan. Has anyone ever used Swepco 103 instead of 101?
 
Angusbeef said:
The clicking just tells you they're working
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Was helping a friend troubleshoot battery issues with his coach out there. I could hear someone driving around in circles and asked about it. Friend says "he's driving in circles trying to hear his CVs click."

We've all been there. :ROFLMAO:
 
acefuture said:
Just a good ole rehash of a 3 year old thread to argue about grease. LETS FIGHT. I say wheel bearing grease from autozone works just fine
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Just a good ole rehash of a 2 year old photo of your car... something about a wheel bearing.
 

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Reece Pettersen said:
I wouldn't expect a CV to ever reach those temperatures. Maybe @parker@gearone has some insight on Cv temps.

I like the viscosity of the 103 is better than the 101, so if temp isn't an issue I might try it.
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I HF IR gun'd my CVs (which are at a less than ideal angle at ride height) after a 1 hour fast ride all over hell and gone. Want to say it was in the 200s. Wonder how the viscocity is at those temps. Seems to be right in the middle of operating window.
 
Rockwood said:
I HF IR gun'd my CVs (which are at a less than ideal angle at ride height) after a 1 hour fast ride all over hell and gone. Want to say it was in the 200s. Wonder how the viscocity is at those temps. Seems to be right in the middle of operating window.
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I've done the same thing, about 220-225F is what the CV body was reading.
Drive flange on tranny was around 240F.
 
Reece Pettersen said:
I wouldn't expect a CV to ever reach those temperatures. Maybe @parker@gearone has some insight on Cv temps.

I like the viscosity of the 103 is better than the 101, so if temp isn't an issue I might try it.
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I did a test on our buggies one day. we were all in a row running the same path for the same amount of time. we normally ran for 30 min to 60 min @ a time. when we would stop I would jump out of my buggy & take the temps on the CV body with a temp gun.

as you can see 2 of the buggies were 934's & mine was a 930. we all had 2D trans. all of our buggies were similar. long travel, 4/5 seat, LS, etc, etc, etc. we all have mid/center-board hubs, so getting a temp on the CV is not really possible. so I shot it on the CV boot flange on all 3 just to get an idea of temp.

FWIW, I was pretty surprised how hot the inner CV was, but then I shot the temp gun on the trans an inch away from it. its pretty amazing how much heat radiates out of the trans. what would be interesting is to see what the temp is of the trans fluid after an hour of beating on it. and shoot.......... the sand crowd has to be MUCH easier on the trans than the Baja 1000 folks........

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Reece Pettersen said:
I wouldn't expect a CV to ever reach those temperatures. Maybe @parker@gearone has some insight on Cv temps.

I like the viscosity of the 103 is better than the 101, so if temp isn't an issue I might try it.
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You should never see CV joints pushing 400*... Most duners probably get there joints from 160-240* as stated by board members above. Believe it or not super finishing the joints dropped the operating temp of the cv joint by 14 - 16* per our tests... So it does more than just make it look shinny :D.

101 Has a higher Timken OK load rating ... Personally I think the 103 would work. But i don't see it being better than 101 for our application.

For the past two seasons I have been running straight bel rey . With great results...3


The great grease debate will never end on GD.com... Well it will if someone ever figures out a proper oil bath...
at the end of the day keeping clean grease in the joint and not the boot is more important than what grease you use.
 
Not to hijack the thread.
3rd season with a sandcar. When cleaning, re-assembling, re-greasing before the season, how much grease is needed in the boot? My logic says to put a ton in there because there is room for it.
 
I think if you get to 375 then you have a problem, but
Angusbeef said:
Not to hijack the thread.
3rd season with a sandcar. When cleaning, re-assembling, re-greasing before the season, how much grease is needed in the boot? My logic says to put a ton in there because there is room for it.
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There should be zero grease in the boot. Grease in the boot will cause the boot to fall off or tear. I suggest watching the following video for a good tutorial.

 
Angusbeef said:
Not to hijack the thread.
3rd season with a sandcar. When cleaning, re-assembling, re-greasing before the season, how much grease is needed in the boot? My logic says to put a ton in there because there is room for it.
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I've never put grease in the boot. I fill the cup and both sides of the joint. Eventually, it does end up in the boot, and I add more. After 1-2 cycles, I generally don't need anymore grease unless I want it all over my buggy.
 
No grease in boot.
I bolt all my stuff together dry, then use grease needle to fill cup/CV.
200 pumps per CV and it comes oozing out.

Agreed with Rockwood. It will move to the boot after driving.
I hope less this season as I am installing GearOne CV savers on the trans CVs.
I pull my boots back every 2 trips and top off.
I have zerks on the caps for the hub side CVs. I just pump it in.
 
Angusbeef said:
Not to hijack the thread.
3rd season with a sandcar. When cleaning, re-assembling, re-greasing before the season, how much grease is needed in the boot? My logic says to put a ton in there because there is room for it.
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Fill the cup with belray, fill the CV with Swepco and call it a day. None in the boot
 
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