Hey guys, those with super chargers what are your air intake temps running. I am fighting temps in my car. When I had my new Gtu was always running 148 and higher never could get them lower with a 440/Whipple 4.0 My new car runs the same temps on a 402 with a Maggie 2.6l. while duning my temps are getting up there. sometimes the last part of the run I am 170 and then the engine removes timing. below 140 the engine is stronger than my 440/4.0. I have a separate heat exchanger in front of my Radiator and have a pump running 32 gal per min. I am going to add a tank and up the line size going into the pump. Tank should hold a gal or more. Line size going to the pump will increase to 1" . Heat exchanger and lines going to the blower are 3/4" right now. who tracks there temps and what are they.? I hear people running 100 degrees and have no clue how they are that low. My intake sensor is in the super charger right by the brick so It is true temp. Not a sensor in the intake tube before the TB.
super charger Air intake temps
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Indian Joe
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- May 5, 2021
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Would be easier to switch to flex fuel sensor on e85
regulate temp with fuel percentage?
regulate temp with fuel percentage?
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No is won't be easier at all. also about 3k with new injectors, flex fuel sensor and tune. then I need to deal with E85 which is hard to get in AZ. Do you have any info on my question By any chance?
Kevin
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- May 5, 2021
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i would try monitoring the (water) temps going in and out of the heat exchanger to see how efficient it is and see where the lack of cooling is coming from before throwing parts at it.
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throwing a simple tank is easier and cheaper than suggested. anyone with a blower have any info on there setup and temps?
Rockwood
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Lowering initial temps: bigger brick in the intake manifold or more efficient blower or boost level. How many ports does the brick have? A core with just 2 (1 in/1 out) will make the cylinders near the core’s exit higher.
Lowering heat soaked temps: bigger heat exchanger, bigger fans, or better ducting.
The larger tank is a bandaid and will delay heat soak, not stop it. Line size should match the heat exchanger’s ports. Larger won’t accomplish a huge amount since the core itself is the likely restriction.
Lowering heat soaked temps: bigger heat exchanger, bigger fans, or better ducting.
The larger tank is a bandaid and will delay heat soak, not stop it. Line size should match the heat exchanger’s ports. Larger won’t accomplish a huge amount since the core itself is the likely restriction.
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EastMT
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Is it possible that you have cavitation at the pump?
Kraut_n_Rice
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All of this.
It's also highly probable that your tune has something to do with the power. One tune could start pulling timing at a lower temp than the previous one.
A time delay on the pump and fans when the engine is off might help delay the heat soak. Let them both run for a couple minutes while your are chillin' at the swing set. Even 30 seconds would dump a ton of heat.
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Same tuner and he plays it safe. Only at 13 degrees of timing. When cool 5 gear wheelies just with gas pedal.
Rockwood
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Rockwood
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Maybe… but that’s a whole new manifold setup and might as well go bigger than the (I assume) TVS 2650 on there.
More likely, the temps are because the blower is in a less optimal boost/HP range (since it’s stronger than the 440/4.0 setup).
J Alper
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The whipple you can get a larger exchanger but it looks brickish it makes it about another 3 inches taller,
How much is the Magie overdriven, that can cause heat also, On the Gray Tatum we did a 9th injector off the holley and ran it with a basic ICF so it only cam on after idle, another one we did a meth injection, this made a huge difference but it is much thirstier than i thought, ended up putting a 2 gallon tank under the seat, with Pressure sensor, this was also done with the holley,
I am doing a turbo system right now with the Tick/Texas-speed intake, but the radiator for the heat exchanger is larger than the engine radiator, it uses 3 12'' fans and is 48'' wide, with a built in tank to hold more water,
I am going to do the same but going to make it part of the upper wing to hide it,
How much is the Magie overdriven, that can cause heat also, On the Gray Tatum we did a 9th injector off the holley and ran it with a basic ICF so it only cam on after idle, another one we did a meth injection, this made a huge difference but it is much thirstier than i thought, ended up putting a 2 gallon tank under the seat, with Pressure sensor, this was also done with the holley,
I am doing a turbo system right now with the Tick/Texas-speed intake, but the radiator for the heat exchanger is larger than the engine radiator, it uses 3 12'' fans and is 48'' wide, with a built in tank to hold more water,
I am going to do the same but going to make it part of the upper wing to hide it,
lincster
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- May 5, 2021
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I have the small 1.7L Maggie right now.
31" wide, 4" thick, 8" tall heat exchanger from CBR. Separate system from my engine radiator.
3/4" line through out, matches input/output of blower.
I see 115-120 when it is 65F outside, that is running hard.
I will see 140-150 when it is 80F outside.
Punisher is running a LSA, overdriven and underdriven, not sure of pulley sizes.
1" lines through out, 2 gallon water box, big heat exchanger mounted in front of radiator and running 16" brushless fans.
He will see 100 while we are duning. He will see 140 when he is drag racing with multiple passes.
I am going to the 2.3L Maggie this summer.
I upsized my heat exchanger from CBR to 31" wide, 4" thick and 13" tall. That will give me 12" fans, which I had CBR install the curved blade "extreme" spall fans.
3/4" line throughout but I am going to a bigger pump, 30 or 40 gal/min, not sure which one yet.
Below are pix of my current set up.
31" wide, 4" thick, 8" tall heat exchanger from CBR. Separate system from my engine radiator.
3/4" line through out, matches input/output of blower.
I see 115-120 when it is 65F outside, that is running hard.
I will see 140-150 when it is 80F outside.
Punisher is running a LSA, overdriven and underdriven, not sure of pulley sizes.
1" lines through out, 2 gallon water box, big heat exchanger mounted in front of radiator and running 16" brushless fans.
He will see 100 while we are duning. He will see 140 when he is drag racing with multiple passes.
I am going to the 2.3L Maggie this summer.
I upsized my heat exchanger from CBR to 31" wide, 4" thick and 13" tall. That will give me 12" fans, which I had CBR install the curved blade "extreme" spall fans.
3/4" line throughout but I am going to a bigger pump, 30 or 40 gal/min, not sure which one yet.
Below are pix of my current set up.
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I don't think you're going to see much of a power difference. Maybe 50 horse with the bigger blower. Unless you do a lot more engine stuff. Kind of like the caddy. CTS-V's the bigger Maggie doesn't add that much horsepower to them. My cars same Dyno 440 with Whipple made on 20 hp more than my 402 with Maggie and the 440 had the big 720 Frankenstein heads.
lincster
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More power now isn't my only reason, will be nice, but I want a bigger blower that will be enough when I stroke my motor, the 1.7L won't cut it.
Plus the 2.3L maggie is more efficient than the Gen 1 1.7L, so that should mean lower IATs.
Not sure what you mean about the LSA blowers.
I have buddies getting crazy power out of them when they under/over drive them.
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What I was meaning is check the CTS forums. Many people are extremely disappointed when going to the larger. Maggie on the LSA platform. If you're going to upgrade I would put a whipple 3 l on there. Your intake temps aren't bad, so we really don't need the cooling aspect of a bigger blower. What I was saying is my 402 with my Maggie puts out as much horsepower as my 440 with a whipple did. And the same intake temperatures. I don't think there's a big enough difference between a 1.7 and a 2.3. like you said, there's plenty of people getting stupid power out of an LSA blower.