RK Racing
New member
- May 5, 2021
- 262
- 267
Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
Yes, Teraflex long arm with Falcon 3.3 shocks for now. The picture of the spare parts is just a start, I have a lot more cutting and grinding to do next weekend. My new 10 ton 46” Jack’s came in too late. That sucks!!!!!! I’m using my six and 12 ton jacks in the picture.Going to long arm it?
So, no rust I take it? :biggrin:P.S…….. Wife’s 2022, she’s 1 week old with about 800 miles on her. Ordered her in In October in Idaho. Flew up to Idaho from LAX airport and drove her back.
Nice!!!!!! Are you going to 60 and a 70
That’s plenty for 35’s.Went from the 30 front to a built 44, 4.88 gears, arb, chromo axles, etc. Built the rear the same way. We flat tow this behind the motorhome and my wife loves driving it so it will never see bigger than a 35" tire. Would like to LS swap it next.
Don't have an air chisel? :biggrin:More crap from yesterday….. all finished sawing and grinding off all the factory brackets yesterday.
View attachment 27478
Nope. I know what you are talking about but I do not believe I’ve ever used one. Not sure if that would have worked because the Sawzall doesn’t even fit in some of the places… in between the body and the frame there’s 1 inch of space so after cutting off as much as possible on the bracket I went in there with the air grinder and a carbide munching tool ( A nasty rotary file ). That parts all finishedDon't have an air chisel? :biggrin:
The link was in there, no? That's where the air chisel comes in from. For the ones you can drill/grind on the spot welds, just give it a bit of a buzzing to weaken them, then hit it with the air chisel between the bracket and frame and they peel right off. Too late now though... :biggrin:Nope. I know what you are talking about but I do not believe I’ve ever used one. Not sure if that would have worked because the Sawzall doesn’t even fit in some of the places… in between the body and the frame there’s 1 inch of space so after cutting off as much as possible on the bracket I went in there with the air grinder and a carbide munching tool ( A nasty rotary file ). That parts all finished
What link are you talking about Willis?…lol. I think I used a nibbler or air chisel tool install a friends sunroof in 1976. Thin Roof of course. Zero spot welds on these brackets. All welds from the factory looked like a puddle weld at least 3 inches long. The air chisel that you are talking about, would it go through 1/8 inch plate?……………. I’m asking for future reference because I might go to a coil over some time soon now that the long arms are going on. All for my wife of course ……… Her Jeep.The link was in there, no? That's where the air chisel comes in from. For the ones you can drill/grind on the spot welds, just give it a bit of a buzzing to weaken them, then hit it with the air chisel between the bracket and frame and they peel right off. Too late now though... :biggrin:
The stock control arms (links). If you're pulling control arm brackets off, I assume you removed the control arm first... :biggrin:What link are you talking about Willis?…lol. I think I used a nibbler or air chisel tool install a friends sunroof in 1976. Thin Roof of course. Zero spot welds on these brackets. All welds from the factory looked like a puddle weld at least 3 inches long. The air chisel that you are talking about, would it go through 1/8 inch plate?……………. I’m asking for future reference because I might go to a coil over some time soon now that the long arms are going on. All for my wife of course ……… Her Jeep.
Silly you! Of course the control arms were removed first……lol. I used the sawzall first to remove as much as the bracket as possible and then that gave me more room to use the hand grinder on the weld. In areas where I could, I removed as much weld as possible with the Air grinder and then I used the hammer and chisel to break the rest of the bracket off if there was room for it. Then grind to a smooth finish Removing all factory weld witness marks. I guess the air chisel would have saved me the hammering on the chisel by hand. As I have mentioned, I might be doing more bracket removing stuff because most likely I will be doing coil overs soon on her jeep. She needs the coil overs because at some of the malls the concrete parking stops are now up to 6 inches tall!!!!!!The stock control arms (links). If you're pulling control arm brackets off, I assume you removed the control arm first... :biggrin:
Through? Fawk no.
Under and pry weakened spot welds off? Yep, so long as it's not some $12 HF job. Grind/drill the spots through the bracket, put the chisel between the frame and bracket, go to town and watch it peel the bracket off.
Word. I just hate being under a Jeep cutting chit off with sawzalls/grinders. Blows goats man.Silly you! Of course the control arms were removed first……lol. I used the sawzall first to remove as much as the bracket as possible and then that gave me more room to use the hand grinder on the weld. In areas where I could, I removed as much weld as possible with the Air grinder and then I used the hammer and chisel to break the rest of the bracket off if there was room for it. Then grind to a smooth finish Removing all factory weld witness marks. I guess the air chisel would have saved me the hammering on the chisel by hand. As I have mentioned, I might be doing more bracket removing stuff because most likely I will be doing coil overs soon on her jeep. She needs the coil overs because at some of the malls the concrete parking stops are now up to 6 inches tall!!!!!!