Slop in Micro Stub? Torque?

[wesinls]

I admittedly haven't taken apart my axle area since owning the car - but noticed when changing out my paddle for the trip home today I have a small slop...I took everything apart and all looks good. I tried to tighten the castle nut a bit more to see if the slop would slop, but it wouldn't. Bearing worn? More torque? If so, how much to torque? Normal to have this? Other side does not.

 

[ChasingSand]

I admittedly haven't taken apart my axle area since owning the car - but noticed when changing out my paddle for the trip home today I have a small slop...I took everything apart and all looks good. I tried to tighten the castle nut a bit more to see if the slop would slop, but it wouldn't. Bearing worn? More torque? If so, how much to torque? Normal to have this? Other side does not.

Probably time for bearings.

 

[Jtmoney714]

Sounds like bearings. As for torque. It takes all of it. I use a 4’ cheater bar and give it all I can to get to the next hole for the cotter pin.

 

[adam909]

bearings or the three bolts that bolt the hub to the arm.

 

[Goatpoker]

Since it is loose, bearings will be chewed up. New bearings and 3/4” breaker bar with a jack handle and your biggest buddy.

 

[Greg Rakes]

Sand has been pretty rough out there lately. With that play I’d vote for new bearing as well.

 

[daveH]

time to rebuild both sides. the good news is this is very basic stuff and parts are low cost compared to big boy hubs.

 

[acefuture]

It was probably the sideways launch to all 4 wheel slides you were doing on that ride hahahah

 

[Dodd]

Or the massive jump coming back from the hill rip

 

[Reece Pettersen]

Definitely time for new bearings. I would also mag inspect the micro stub axels too, if not replace. Once those bearings start to play, it puts a lot of force on the stub axels.

For future reference, torque spec is 250 ft. lbs.

 

[wesinls]

It was probably the sideways launch to all 4 wheel slides you were doing on that ride hahahah

Ha - true!!

 

[wesinls]

Looks like it's one of these for my setup - this is all new to me, thought at first I could just replace bearings, but after looking on Kartek's site it's the whole unit?

 

[Icky]

Looks like it's one of these for my setup - this is all new to me, thought at first I could just replace bearings, but after looking on Kartek's site it's the whole unit?

View attachment 169917

Following

 

[chopshop]

Looks like it's one of these for my setup - this is all new to me, thought at first I could just replace bearings, but after looking on Kartek's site it's the whole unit?

View attachment 169917

That stub bearing also comes 3.90in 33 spline too . So measure before you buy .

 

[Dustin_TheFordPro]

I replaced them on my car a couple of seasons ago. I ended up getting them from Kartek since the parts store ones only lasted a couple of trips. Make sure you torque the axle nut properly and recheck it after a ride. If you don’t, you’ll kill them fast. Don’t ask me how I know lol

 

[wesinls]

That stub bearing also comes 3.90in 33 spline too . So measure before you buy .

Yep, I did...3.60 33 spline.

 

[Jtmoney714]

Looks like it's one of these for my setup - this is all new to me, thought at first I could just replace bearings, but after looking on Kartek's site it's the whole unit?

View attachment 169917

That’s just the unit bearing. It’s one piece. You have to replace the whole thing. I would use the Proam or Jamar bearings.

 

[Reece Pettersen]

Looks like it's one of these for my setup - this is all new to me, thought at first I could just replace bearings, but after looking on Kartek's site it's the whole unit?

I would go with Proam or timken the way you drive.

 

[Cookie]

If you are running stub axles the car isn't very new, I would replace bearing and axles at this point. They will break, it is a matter of when.

 

[John@Outfront]

Stop !

you might all be wrong, i have seen this before. before you waste your money try this.

remove the micro stub, then get a long bolt and some large washers to compress the bearing assembly (the inner races together). once compressed then turn and inspect the bearing for free play if there is none then your bearings are not bad! i have seen where the microstub (or bearing) was replaced separately and there was a compatibility issue, what i found was the inside radius on the microstub was so big that it did not allow for the flat part of the micro stub to tighten (squeeze) the bearing assy together, the result is a loose bearing (and poor brakes)