Sand Car Electrical Panels, Distribution and Harnesses

Mac said:
@Travelah Travis...You always create BEAUTIFUL work. If I could afford you, I'd have you wiring my whole car... :ROFLMAO:

The fuel pump, injectors, fans, etc...are all running through my FuelTech. I'm only using my SwitchPro for Main power (on/off), lights, radio and GPS.
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Thanks, if you need help laying it out or have any questions hit me up. (619) 261-3983
 
Mac said:
I'm planning out my electrical system/wiring for my car. It's not very technical but I'm interesting how you all have your electrical systems laid out.

I have -
- FuelTech FT550 ECU/Digital dash
- Switchpro - 8 button
- Using auto reset breakers

Basically looking for layouts and ideas. Any pics would be awesome.
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My car runs similar setup but with a terminator X, pro dash, and the MSD solid state relay pack. simplicity was the goal when I re-wired it last summer.

Switch pros 8 button runs ignition, starter, 5 light circuits, and coms. The switch pro unit lives under the dash closest to the lights/coms since that's a majority of the wires going to it. all the engine management lives under the rear seat on a sub panel that can be removed with the 4 bolts from under the car and hinged down for easy troubleshooting in the sand.

Term X feeds the MSD relay pack for Fuel Pump, Fan 1, Fan 2, and E water pump. for simplicity I did not have the switchpros control backups for fans, or anything aside from ignition to the Holley and starter engage. I did however wire in some toggle switches to override the fans and electric water pump that are stashed under my seat incase something goes wrong I can manually switch everything on or they can help in trouble shooting.

My battery master switch is under the dash, I can reach it from the seat buckled up, it kills everything in case there is an emergency. alternator charge signal wire is tied into the switch pro ignition so it is killed once master is off and the alternator doesn't back feed and keep things running.

4 total 12v constant power fuses AFTER the battery master switch:
1. Switch pro (the inline that its supplied with)
2. E Power steering
3. Holley Term X
4. Main power for MSD relays

There are also 4 fuses after the MSD box. I was not comfortable using just the 100A fuse powering the MSD, unlike the switch pros you cant set individual current limits so I added a small 4 fuse panel after the MSD to protect the fans/fuel and water pump incase any of those wires short or a fan starts to drawl too much.

This setup is super simple and it got rid of probably 20lb of wires going to and from the dash. all the separate relays, fuses etc...GONE! the digital dash killed all the gauge wires, that alone was a ton.
 
I am thinking of rewiring my car in the off season as I am tired of the rats nest I currently have. My car is super basic and I am thinking I can tackle it myself.
I do have a couple of concerns and questions and hoping someone can chime in.

For my Ignition on items, such as Relays, Electric Power Steering, ETC. I was thinking of using the SPOD bantam X(Already have it) to trigger a bus bar with all the "Hot" Items to it?

Secondly, for the MSD solid state, I want to run my fans and fuel pump on this. The fuel pump should be easy but I am confused on the fans as I use a switch inline with the coolan line that triggers the ground to the relay. How is this done with the MSD unit?



For two lights (Baja XL80's) it looks like with the SPOD I can ditch all the relays and run straight to the controller? Can you wire two lights into one port? They draw 5.5 Amps per light.

Lastly, what does a typical rewire on a chassis run? I already have a mil spec engine harness and just need the chassis done. Might be cheaper in the long run to have someone do it for me. I was burned super bad by Erik at Hardwired Performance so I am a little gun shy in regards to the matter.
 
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ChasingSand said:
I am thinking of rewiring my car in the off season as I am tired of the rats nest I currently have. My car is super basic and I am thinking I can tackle it myself.
I do have a couple of concerns and questions and hoping someone can chime in.

For my Ignition on items, such as Relays, Electric Power Steering, ETC. I was thinking of using the SPOD bantam X(Already have it) to trigger a bus bar with all the "Hot" Items to it?

Secondly, for the MSD solid state, I want to run my fans and fuel pump on this. The fuel pump should be easy but I am confused on the fans as I use a switch inline with the coolan line that triggers the ground to the relay. How is this done with the MSD unit?



For two lights (Baja XL80's) it looks like with the SPOD I can ditch all the relays and run straight to the controller? Can you wire two lights into one port? They draw 5.5 Amps per light.

Lastly, what does a typical rewire on a chassis run? I already have a mil spec engine harness and just need the chassis done. Might be cheaper in the long run to have someone do it for me. I was burned super bad by Erik at Hardwired Performance so I am a little gun shy in regards to the matter.
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You would use the same ground that triggers the relay to trigger the msd box. Think of the msd box as the relay.


For the lights. You can attach whatever you want to one “port” as long as you don’t exceed the amp rating of said port. So if it’s rated at 25amps you could 4 lights of it.
 
ChasingSand said:
I am thinking of rewiring my car in the off season as I am tired of the rats nest I currently have. My car is super basic and I am thinking I can tackle it myself.
I do have a couple of concerns and questions and hoping someone can chime in.

For my Ignition on items, such as Relays, Electric Power Steering, ETC. I was thinking of using the SPOD bantam X(Already have it) to trigger a bus bar with all the "Hot" Items to it?

Secondly, for the MSD solid state, I want to run my fans and fuel pump on this. The fuel pump should be easy but I am confused on the fans as I use a switch inline with the coolan line that triggers the ground to the relay. How is this done with the MSD unit?



For two lights (Baja XL80's) it looks like with the SPOD I can ditch all the relays and run straight to the controller? Can you wire two lights into one port? They draw 5.5 Amps per light.

Lastly, what does a typical rewire on a chassis run? I already have a mil spec engine harness and just need the chassis done. Might be cheaper in the long run to have someone do it for me. I was burned super bad by Erik at Hardwired Performance so I am a little gun shy in regards to the matter.
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If you’re going to use the spod to turn on a bus bar you need to make sure whatever you have connected to that bus bar doesn’t exceed the current rating of the switch port you’re gonna use. Or use the spod ignition on to trigger a relay that then can handle the current.
 
Jtmoney714 said:
If you’re going to use the spod to turn on a bus bar you need to make sure whatever you have connected to that bus bar doesn’t exceed the current rating of the switch port you’re gonna use. Or use the spod ignition on to trigger a relay that then can handle the current.
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And the overall rating of the Switch Pros (150A for the 12 port, 125A for the 8). The 4-pin alone has 140A worth of current possible on it, so if you’re running 2 mondo fans, a mondo fuel pump, mondo lights (BD light bar and 2 LP9s), plus ECU/Ignition, starter relay (20A), etc, it’s not hard to max it out. The above amp draw running leaves less than 20A available for other common items like electric steering (20A), pumpers (10A), intercooler/oil cooler fan (10A ea), electric water pumps (12A), etc. You’d be over budget on the 8 port without any of the above add-ons.

This all assumes there’s some airflow across the PDU box.

Basically: you still probably have to run some high draw shit on relays.
 
Rockwood said:
And the overall rating of the Switch Pros (150A for the 12 port, 125A for the 8). The 4-pin alone has 140A worth of current possible on it, so if you’re running 2 mondo fans, a mondo fuel pump, mondo lights (BD light bar and 2 LP9s), plus ECU/Ignition, starter relay (20A), etc, it’s not hard to max it out. The above amp draw running leaves less than 20A available for other common items like electric steering (20A), pumpers (10A), intercooler/oil cooler fan (10A ea), electric water pumps (12A), etc. You’d be over budget on the 8 port without any of the above add-ons.

This all assumes there’s some airflow across the PDU box.

Basically: you still probably have to run some high draw shit on relays.
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I am going to run the fuel pump and fans off an MSD solid state.
 
I wired my ignition, fuel pump and fans off the MSD solid state relay. It has provisions for both + and - input triggers for all four outputs. Fans on the LS are - trigger, fuel pump is a + trigger. Made it super easy to wire up.
 
Mac said:
I'm planning out my electrical system/wiring for my car. It's not very technical but I'm interesting how you all have your electrical systems laid out.

I have -
- FuelTech FT550 ECU/Digital dash
- Switchpro - 8 button
- Using auto reset breakers

Basically looking for layouts and ideas. Any pics would be awesome.
Click to expand...
The switch pros has breakers built in they set automatically. so when wiring the outputs to the switchpros it will go directly to the light or the ign ect...
 
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