Re-Construction - Truggy Build

got some parts and progress

front knuckles on order
brake pads, rotors and hubs all showed up

link brackets showed and got them started last night, gonna burn some weld wire tomorrow

fuel system all plumbed out, just need to get it bolted to the plate now

new shoes! soon as the front knuckles and rear axle is linked we will have a roller

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didn't get to far last night

fuel system panel all done painted and bolted the fittings are "loose"

tacked the driver side link mounts, started the pass side and the trans mount

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Got wee bit further.

Trans mount and frame side link mounts all mocked and tacked in for the next stage, axle side and the link bars next.

shed some useless weight of tabs, body hangers, power steering bracket

wheels/tires mounted

started to added some color contrast

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rear axle getting setup! we don't use bluetooth drive lines or links, that's what PVC is for!

Approx 105" wheelbase

Upper links 38" eye-eye

Lower links 39.5" eye-eye

36"ish drive line

10deg pinion angle

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Yes, but it was also always the plan to use a TH400 in all the build ideas I've had.
Simple no need for electronics or tuning nighmares with the 4L###'s. I have more then one friend who cannot keep or get the trans tune right on their rock buggies. The VSS signal, transfercase's and gear ratios just seem to be a wild card. I know there are PRO's and people with zero issue's but I just have always planned on the 3-speed and simple.
Can always add an over/under setup from gearvendors

 
UPDATE! Almost got the links set and 1st/2nd start ups.

Got a crank no start issue we have to figure out. We know it's fuel, since with ether no issue. There's fuel at the rail, but the injectors are not firing.




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Are the upper links' axle side bolts using a welded in nut?  If so, check those often.  You'll hate life if one works loose and take the threads with it on the way out.

 
Rockwood, not sure I totally understand. The link ends are 1-1/4" heim with weld in tube ends and locking nuts.

Got the lowers mocked up, thinking about just keeping them straight no dog leg for the shock, due to be true triangle and not upper triangle lower straights.
Two posible shock locations 1) on the lower link approx 10" from the axle 2) on the axle above the link mount. Option one gives the most wheel travel to shock length but may sacrifice the link over time. Option 2 will provide very little travel, only the shock length. Still gotta do the 90deg math at full bump for upper shock location.

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With that style of 4 link, I would suggest you don't put the shocks on that little lower link. It will look like a taco in no time. The shocks need to be tabbed off of the rear end housing 

 
@Dune-Track-N NM. Didn’t see the front of the upper link mount on the axle. Looked like there were captured nuts in there. 

 
With that style of 4 link, I would suggest you don't put the shocks on that little lower link. It will look like a taco in no time. The shocks need to be tabbed off of the rear end housing 
I hear your concern, but it's been done like this for many types of buggies for a long time. The tube is 1-3/4" .250 wall.

Actually the bigger issue is the shock trying to turn the tube during the arc cycle. I'm gonna have to change a mount and not use a heim on one end to keep it from turning/rolling the tube.

Kartek wobble stopper, R-Rod, Johnny Joint, etc....

 
I hear your concern, but it's been done like this for many types of buggies for a long time. The tube is 1-3/4" .250 wall.

Actually the bigger issue is the shock trying to turn the tube during the arc cycle. I'm gonna have to change a mount and not use a heim on one end to keep it from turning/rolling the tube.

Kartek wobble stopper, R-Rod, Johnny Joint, etc....
Sounds like you have it all figured out. Sorry for the interruption. 

 
Got the buggy engine running on it's own now! Ended up being a sensor either cam or crank sensor. Didn't fire between each sensor test. I went around and checked for power at key on and while cranking (plugged unplugged all the sensors) , then BOOM started and ran on it's own.

Got the 4-links almost all set and moved the sway bar to it's new home (temporary, gotta make gussets and torque tubes), cycled the suspension UP to it's full bump and everything will clear. Gotta buy the link ends to keep the arm from twisting/falling over and a few heims for the sway bar. Made a bunch of filler plates for final welding of the axle/link mounts.
 

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Dos Burros update

4links ready for final weld out
Sway bar ready for final weld out
Axle ready for final weld out
Fuel system 100%
Engine runs no issues, ready for trans and exhaust to be built

Next
Rear shock mounts/hoops
Front spindles (fit the Jeep JK knuckes to the existing uniball arm setup)

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Dos Burros update

4links ready for final weld out
Sway bar ready for final weld out
Axle ready for final weld out
Fuel system 100%
Engine runs no issues, ready for trans and exhaust to be built

Next
Rear shock mounts/hoops
Front spindles (fit the Jeep JK knuckes to the existing uniball arm setup)

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Always fun when you weld the bungs in, test the end to make sure the threads are still good, then let it cool.  Good Lord, never before have I had to use that much leverage to remove something.  

 
busy HOT weekend, but found some time to weld and fab on Dos Burros

final weld out of the LINK mounts
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final location, gusset and weld out on the Sway Bar
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drilled the spindles to fit the 1" Uniballs just need shorter misalignments now, almost ready to make it a roller

 
Got Dos Burros on it's own wheels now!

gonna move it over to the lift now to work on the final chassis items

front suspension is all outa whack none of the heims are set the same or correctly, got that dirty hooker clap look

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