Paint newly added B Pillars

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ChasingSand

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I recently had B Pillars installed on my SU car and I want to paint them to match the rest of the car. From what I have read, I need to clean the bars with acetone then use a scotch bright pad to prep for paint.

What brand of rattle can paint do you recommend as I would like to match the current red powder coat?

 
Orbit powder coating

 
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If you can take a small panel to an automotive paint store they can shoot  the panel with a color gun and usually can get really close a lot of them can mix it and put in aerosol can for you not the cheapest way to get paint but it is affective not being from your area I can’t recommend a paint store maybe someone can chime in with a recommendation 

 
Make sure you use a good primer first  and you really will need more scuff than a scotch brite, if you don't rough it enough you not get good adhesion and remember to clean, before and after sanding.  A good procedure is to use Acetone, then a good soap baed cleaner (window cleaner like sprayaway is ideal, then Isoproposal alcohol  80% of painting is prep, then use a lint free cloth to wipe an lint off  - or just a clean terry towel -  then tap the area and you are ready to start  - don't touch tubes after due to oils on your hands.   Primer is always needed just to protect against corrosion but to give paint teeth. As GBR said above  oull a panel and clean it well  - clay it and polish it and  have it matched by a paint store - they can sell/ mix you an aerosol can of primer (usually self-etch)  and paint (single stage usually)  and then just practice on a scrap tube  - painting tubes can be hard to judge distance and runs happen - then prime and paint.  3 coats of paint is usually perfect - follow instructions on wait times since the paint is differnt than rattle can  -  you should be good to go for under $70, now I know a decent rattle can is  $10 but difference in quality and durability will be night and day IMO  If you want to do it on the cheap .. and the color is pretty standard  Rust-Oleum Painter's Touch 2X is the easiest rattle can there is  - its a Primer and paint in one (sorta) and it holds up and is super easy to apply - I use it on my outdoor furniture - everything else goes in te booth for real paint  😀

 
lincster said:
How do you powder coat just a portion of a chassis?
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I do this a fair amount when I add something like a bracekt or bar  to a car - its not ideal but it can be done - You start at a "joint" and you heat tape at that point, ground the chassis and shoot the powder  - I just use my eastwood gun, then you use a IR Cure light or two, it is hard to get it perfect and you have to keep checking wit the IR heat gun  - but shops do it as well

 
Fullthrottleguy said:
I do this a fair amount when I add something like a bracekt or bar  to a car - its not ideal but it can be done - You start at a "joint" and you heat tape at that point, ground the chassis and shoot the powder  - I just use my eastwood gun, then you use a IR Cure light or two, it is hard to get it perfect and you have to keep checking wit the IR heat gun  - but shops do it as well
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Ohhhh, so it isn't the "true" powdercoat process.

Ok, that makes sense.

 
Fullthrottleguy said:
now I know a decent rattle can is  $10 but difference in quality and durability will be night and day IMO
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What Fullthrottleguy said in his whole post is good info and this here I agree 100% the difference in quality and durability is worth the extra money. I think the powder in a can is interesting, I haven't tried that but I think trying to get it baked evenly on a tube could prove to be difficult. I have done the paint match and aerosol can mix on my last 2 cars with good results, the first car I did touch up with rattle can and when I redid the roof I had the paint mixed by qt and used spray gun. How ever you decide be sure and show us the results. 

 
Give Ed at SU sand cars in Chino a call. He may be able to help with your color matching. 

 
lincster said:
Ohhhh, so it isn't the "true" powdercoat process.

Ok, that makes sense.
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I am not sure what you mean by " true powder coat" But I think I typo'd IR instead of UV - (iphone fingers)

As far as I know its the same powder coat process all powder coaters use, except UV cure is not an oven  its the same concept except the heat is well directed. The issue with UV cure is getting the right heat and getting it even - and it means a lot of attention during the cure - you can't just walk away like an oven.  I still use an oven (big toaster oven) for small brackets and clamps etc. 

whenever I have a car coated I ask the Powder  coater to give me a small jar of the Powder so I can touch up and match with brackets, or sometimes I will buy a pound or 1/2 pound from them to have it.  It seems their are always a couple pieces I forget to bring  that I don't want to rattle can

 
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Some good info here. Like @Rockwood said use a hardener with clear coat. They should come together in a can. Really makes the paint pop. 

 
The frame of my car is painted with catalyzed poly urethane paint, single stage. I used ppg products and is now 9 years old and still holding up. It is over catalyzed primer/sealer. Easy to repair when needed. My side panels are the same product except base/clear and show no signs of wear. On your pillars I would just color match and single stage them. Easy and done.

 
Fullthrottleguy said:
I am not sure what you mean by " true powder coat" But I think I typo'd IR instead of UV - (iphone fingers)

As far as I know its the same powder coat process all powder coaters use, except UV cure is not an oven  its the same concept except the heat is well directed. The issue with UV cure is getting the right heat and getting it even - and it means a lot of attention during the cure - you can't just walk away like an oven.  I still use an oven (big toaster oven) for small brackets and clamps etc. 

whenever I have a car coated I ask the Powder  coater to give me a small jar of the Powder so I can touch up and match with brackets, or sometimes I will buy a pound or 1/2 pound from them to have it.  It seems their are always a couple pieces I forget to bring  that I don't want to rattle can
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You stated exactly why it isn't the powdercoat process I was referring to.

Normally an oven is used..

We use powdercoat all the time at work and the oven is the approved process by ASTM standards.

 
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lincster said:
You stated exactly why it isn't the powdercoat process I was referring to.

Normally an oven is used..

We use powdercoat all the time at work and the oven is the approved process by ASTM standards.
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How often do you need to get that oven certified?

 
Stugots said:
2 simple options.

Prep, prime, shoot it with a close color rattel can and clear with  this.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0043B7UQY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_K65T1MZWNW5S9PDS82E0?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

2. Find a paint store that sells max 2k and have them color match and put it in the can as a 2 stage.

There is a place in Glendora that does it for me.

If you want you can ship me a sample of the color and I can have a cam mixes up for you and ship it back with some quality primer.
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I went to a local place here and asked to have that done and they couldn't match it they told me.

Maybe I will send you a small piece that has be powdercoated and see what you can come up with.

I will PM you if I decide to do this.  If that is ok?

 
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