New RV warranty advice

ElCaminoManT said:
See if you can trace the fuel line and see if it might be kinked or pinched somewhere. The diesel gens are usually pretty damn reliable
Click to expand...
That's the plan, I'm just lazy and my wife is pissed saying then why did we buy a warranty???  I agree, but I also have some experience with this and the path of least resistance is sometimes the path best taken.

 
Only RV I have ever bought new was thru Headinjury, I bought from him because I trusted him to make sure things like this wouldn't happen.  Trusting dealerships and everyone involved sucks.  Heck even now to get chassis work done on a Moho 10 years old is nearly impossible if you have a gas rig.

 
Cookie said:
Only RV I have ever bought new was thru Headinjury, I bought from him because I trusted him to make sure things like this wouldn't happen.  Trusting dealerships and everyone involved sucks.  Heck even now to get chassis work done on a Moho 10 years old is nearly impossible if you have a gas rig.
Click to expand...
La Mesa RV is very helpful, but like I said, I'm 3.5 hours away.  I was "hoping" I would have access to service here in Havasu.  

 
High Sierra Dad said:
This was almost three years ago. So, all was good WAY before Headinjury mentioned anything about them stepping it up, even more. There was no "hoping", it actually happened.

My guess is that your old trailer isn't sitting in a field, rotting away somewhere.
Click to expand...
MAC sold the trailer and the new owner found frame damage the next day. None of us had any idea the frame was a problem. Mac was a true man of his word and refunded the sale and took the trailer back. He then paid to have the frame fixed and everything else that was found.  It sold shortly after that. The repairs made a big difference in how the trailer towed and good chance its fine now.  That trailer had many design faults that should not of been put on the owner. 

I'd be surprised if it was sitting in a lot and rotting away.

 
Grease Monkey said:
MAC sold the trailer and the new owner found frame damage the next day. None of us had any idea the frame was a problem. Mac was a true man of his word and refunded the sale and took the trailer back. He then paid to have the frame fixed and everything else that was found.  It sold shortly after that. The repairs made a big difference in how the trailer towed and good chance its fine now.  That trailer had many design faults that should not of been put on the owner. 

I'd be surprised if it was sitting in a lot and rotting away.
Click to expand...
I actually sold for almost what I had originally bought it for... :lol:

But yes, I had fixed everything on it before selling it but it was just tainted for me at that point.

 
warranty always suck in your case i agree that its probably a fuel supply issue and should be diagnosed and covered by the rv manufacture and if it isn't the manufacturer should send it to onan to fix the problem that is the way it should be but it is not. on the other hand check the fuel lines your self there should be two lines one is a return and supply change the fuel filter. make sure the fitting are tight on the tank could be sucking air from a fitting. if you want to go a bit further remove both lines and put them in a bucket of diesel and see if that solves your problem observe the return line for air bubbles a small amount of air is normal caused by the injectors. there could be something stuck in one of the lines i clogged return line will shut it down as well. code 36 is a generic code for unintended shut down so no help there  https://www.cummins.com/sites/default/files/rv-manuals/A046L053.pdf

 
Mac said:
Chris, The generator is very difficult to start and will shut off after just running a bit.  Once it's warm, it runs fine.  I believe it's a fuel feed issue.  I'm going to see what I can do today to find a loose clamp or anything.  If the generator was more easily accessible, I'd have figured this out by now.

I'm being told if it's a feed issue, then it's a Jayco/Entegra issue and I am liable for the charges if I take it to Onan, since I didn't take it in to a Jayco repair center first.  This finger pointing BS is irritating. 

I truly appreciate the comment and the offer.  I may be in touch.
Click to expand...
When you are trouble shooting run it out of a bucket as one of your steps, that will eliminate finger pointing

check injector lines are tight if sucking air that could be your issue while cold and hot they expand

turn breakers off and try to fire it up to see if rotor/stator dragging

Just a couple thoughts

 
  • Like
Reactions: Mac
The issues i had with the warranties,  they never fixed it correctly, seems like the only RV places that fix it correctly want to tag your insurance for some over inflated price,  everything that the dealership did was crap, 

If you want the manufacture warranty to fix it, take it back to them. 

I had the local dealer fix a list of items and not one of those items was resolved, after a year or two the issue popped up, them if fixed it myself. I can remember but i think i paid around $2500 to 3k for the warranty,   

They scared me into it,  and everything i replaced myself that did not work, The parts i replaced myself was around 5k over the years, so i should have just stayed away from the warranty.  

 
Most extended warranties only cover after the manufacturer’s warranty expired. 

I had a warranty that DID pay off, but only because it was through the financing company, so any repair shop was eligible, and everyone was willing to charge to it. 

Overall, warranties aren’t worth the paper they’re printed on.  No one wants to help anything but the number on your blood pressure machine. 

 
Last edited by a moderator:
New RVs are a PITA. 

I've had a few, and every one ends up with a 10+ item "punch list" within the first few months. 

This time around I rolled the dice without an extended warranty, and here is why... working with RV repair is a giant effin' PITA, even with the factory warranty it takes weeks to months for simple fixes... yes they are "free" but at what cost?  Missed trips, headaches dealing with shitty dealer service writers, damage inflicted while at the dealership and your coach sitting out in the weather when it has a garage at home all have their own costs.  I've found I can get most/all issues fixed in 1-2 days by mobile RV mechanics that would normally mean the coach sitting at a dealer for weeks if not months.  I've actually had some success taking my invoices from mobile repair and getting the OEM or extended warranty to refund me. 

Also, with this coach I hope repairs are going to be cheaper to fix in general, yet the extended warranty costs were pretty close to my last coach.  The last coach was a '19 Mountain Aire on a Spartan Chassis (with Silverleaf) and a 11.9 ISX/Allison 4k.  If a motor had went on the MA it's something like $30-40k for a new one.  This coach is just on a GM/International 6500 chassis with a 6.6L Duramax and an Allison 1750.  If this motor goes, it's something like $10k.  If Silverleaf had big issues who knows how much that could be, vs. plain old (poorly done) traditional wiring in this one.  The MA it had a giant full wall slide that housed the kitchen, bedroom cabinets/tv, recliners, dinette, lots of upper cabinets and was all real porcelain tile and solid hardwood cabinets etc.  It was so heavy the slide mechanism was hydraulic.  If something happened and that slide had to be removed for repairs it'd be a zillion dollars.  This coach also has a FWS, but it's a good 10' shorter (as is the whole coach) and while it houses basically the same stuff, it's "toy hauler quality" construction and way, way lighter utilizing a traditional slide mechanism.  

With warranties being around $10k for either coach, and this new chassis carrying a good powertrain warranty it just didn't add up. I've fixed prob 4-5 things myself and brought in an RV mechanic for a handful more (as well as having them swap from the shitty RV fridge to a Resi).  I've still spent a tiny fraction of the warranty cost and never had to send the RV anywhere.

-TJ

 
I seemed to have fixed my generator issue.  I crawled around underneath it yesterday and found the fuel feed and return lines were only half on and the clamps were above the nipple.  While there were no leaks, I'm sure it was either collapsing/restricting the line internally and/or creating just enough of a pocket to suck air when running.  I replaced the cheap band clamps and put better hose clamps on it.  It does seem to run much better.

Here's to "hoping".

Again, appreciate all the constructive inputs and advice.  I'm sure more issues will come up as I continue to shake things down.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Mac said:
I seemed to have fixed my generator issue.  I crawled around underneath it yesterday and found the fuel feed and return lines were only half on and the clamps were above the nipple.  While there were no leaks, I'm sure it was either collapsing/restricting the line internally and/or creating just enough of a pocket to suck air when running.  I replaced the cheap band clamps and put better hose clamps on it.  It does seem to run much better.

Here's to "hoping".

Again, appreciate all the constructive inputs and advice.  I'm sure more issues will come up as I continue to shake things down.
Click to expand...
I might have missed it, but what did you end up getting?  One of the problems I had to find/fix was also a generator issue, but a very different one.  The first month I owned it I took the RV over to a buddy's house in Henderson (next town over from me in Vegas).  It was late-summer so it was H-O-T, so I turned the genny and both ACs on before leaving the house.  When I got to his place ~20min later the genny was off.  It turns out the main DC power lugs on the gen were super loose... in fact one nut (I forget which side +/-) was just gone.  It was a giant pain to get to them since they were in the back corner of the genny chassis, but once I replaced the one and tightened the other, it was fine.  I also had to completely reroute the fuel fill and vents for both tanks, fix various trim, fix shower tub seal, etc. etc. etc. 

-TJ

 
tjZ06 said:
I might have missed it, but what did you end up getting?  One of the problems I had to find/fix was also a generator issue, but a very different one.  The first month I owned it I took the RV over to a buddy's house in Henderson (next town over from me in Vegas).  It was late-summer so it was H-O-T, so I turned the genny and both ACs on before leaving the house.  When I got to his place ~20min later the genny was off.  It turns out the main DC power lugs on the gen were super loose... in fact one nut (I forget which side +/-) was just gone.  It was a giant pain to get to them since they were in the back corner of the genny chassis, but once I replaced the one and tightened the other, it was fine.  I also had to completely reroute the fuel fill and vents for both tanks, fix various trim, fix shower tub seal, etc. etc. etc. 

-TJ
Click to expand...
We got a 2023 Entegra Accolade XT.  It's a 4x4 and all the goodies.  Diesel, diesel generator.

Crawling under it...just made me want to reroute everything "correctly"... :lol:   Now I have that on my soul until I do it.

All in all, we love this RV and if fits us perfect.  I was just "hoping" for no issues...silly me.

 
Mac said:
We got a 2023 Entegra Accolade XT.  It's a 4x4 and all the goodies.  Diesel, diesel generator.

Crawling under it...just made me want to reroute everything "correctly"... :lol:   Now I have that on my soul until I do it.

All in all, we love this RV and if fits us perfect.  I was just "hoping" for no issues...silly me.
Click to expand...
Not all that different than what I went with ('23 Nexus Rebel 30R - it's on the International/GM 6500 4x4 chassis).  The new breed of Super Cs are Super Rad... but yeah all the plumbing/wiring/fit and finish reminds me of a toy hauler more than my previous higher-end diesel pushers. 

-TJ
 

 
Last edited by a moderator:
UPDATE***

So we went camping in Randsburg, CA over Thanksgiving and the generator acted up again.  I decided to bite the bullet and take it in.  Made an appointment and drove up to Las Vegas. 

They discovered a bad fuel pump.  I pretty much knew it was a fuel feed issue.  So I looked it all up online and feel stupid.  The Quiet Diesel models have an access panel on the bottom that you pop open and boom...fuel filter and pump.  Then I look up the pump.  It's $30 on amazon.  Motherf*cker!  More research showed that Onan uses the same pump for damn near all their generators, gas or diesel.  I had a spare carb and fuel pump from my old TH that I gave to Yarder thinking it "must be different since it's diesel..."  Joke's me.      If I had just looked it up for a minute instead of thinking..."no f*ck that...it's new and under warranty...", I would have had it fixed and paid less for the part than my time and gas to go to Vegas and back.  Anyway, now Onan will fix it, it's documented, I get the experience of dealing with warranty repair centers and know more now.

I did download all the pubs from Onan to include the parts manual so I can cross reference things now.

 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top