Need some advice from the ls engine guys.

[Looney Duner]

So I'm considering a few options for my engine build, I currently have an ls1, cnc ported heads, fast intake, bigger injectors, bla bla bla. Pretty basic set up, but it runs great. I recently picked up a kenne bell 2.6 blower, with a cathedral port intake. I'm going to build the ls1, and I'm contemplating going 383. The cost difference is a lot when you consider block work and such. Is it even worth it? I hear some people saying it's not worth the added cost on a boosted engine, just run a few higher psi and make up for the fewer cubes. Plus stroker motors don't rev as good as short stroke engines. 

So if given the choice, 347 or 383, with 10-12 psi boost, which way would you go and why?

Edit to ad, it will be a forged bottom end no matter which size I go...

 

[Whipsandshyt]

More Cubes definitely. You want to be able to use all the blower

 

[Rockwood]

It's being fed by a positive displacement supercharger, I'd just save the money unless you wanted to go full stupid later on.  Either way it goes, you'll need the same size pulley to accomplish the same horsepower.  The bigger motor will just see marginally less boost doing it.  

 

[CHRIS J]

If you are going to stroke it go as big as possible for best gains. 
cost wise? I would keep it as is, boost life and e85

best bang for the buck I think

 

[J Alper]

383 does not make big HP unless you go all the way,  Like Square port LS7 Heads built for 3.900. The correct cam, and lifters and then you will get hp out of a 383, need a good intake not the Asian junk,  

We only do sand car motors and most come from customers that only made it one season,   They need to be built for the correct application. 

• What is the Goal on HP, 
  
• What is the real budget,  
  
• Can you do any of the work yourself - mounting heat exchanger and pump,  
  
• What fuel pump, and lines do you have, and do you want to upgrade them, 
  
• What fuel do you want to run, 
  
• How long in durations do you want your dune ride to last,  30min-2hours?
  

You need to ask yourself these questions, be honest with yourself when you answer them and this will lead you in the right direction. 

The personally we will not build a sand car motor with stock rods, no matter the customer.  In my book adding boost to stock motor will make it unreliable. 

When I did Richy Rich's motor last year it was super reliable and super fast, and stuck to a budget,  you got to have a game plan going in, 

 

[Jersey_Jeff73]

my car has a ls6 383 stroker with a 2.9 whipple has blower cam and pistons i see 10 to 12 lbs with she smallest pully available and a 10 rib belt. it runs great not sure on the hp numbers but in a sand limo i have no problem getting it to wheelie. i really don't know the difference being with out a stroker its been 4 seasons since i rebuilt it still running strong. good luck with your build 

 

[lincster]

I am up to 8lbs of boost on my LS1........  not stroked.

Fuel pump died on the dyno.... 

Got new pulleys coming, hoping for 10-11lbs.

Will report out in my build thread!!!!!!

 

[Looney Duner]

383 does not make big HP unless you go all the way,  Like Square port LS7 Heads built for 3.900. The correct cam, and lifters and then you will get hp out of a 383, need a good intake not the Asian junk,  

We only do sand car motors and most come from customers that only made it one season,   They need to be built for the correct application. 

• What is the Goal on HP, 
  
• What is the real budget,  
  
• Can you do any of the work yourself - mounting heat exchanger and pump,  
  
• What fuel pump, and lines do you have, and do you want to upgrade them, 
  
• What fuel do you want to run, 
  
• How long in durations do you want your dune ride to last,  30min-2hours?
  

You need to ask yourself these questions, be honest with yourself when you answer them and this will lead you in the right direction. 

The personally we will not build a sand car motor with stock rods, no matter the customer.  In my book adding boost to stock motor will make it unreliable. 

When I did Richy Rich's motor last year it was super reliable and super fast, and stuck to a budget,  you got to have a game plan going in, 

Shooting for 650-700

Budget? I haven't really set one cause it will go out the window at some point 

Doing all the work myself 

Fuel system and ecu will be upgraded at the same time

Pump gas

Long rides... 

I'm really just trying to figure out if it is worth going 383 or not. I can save some money not going stroker. And it seems like it's only good for a few extra ponies anyway. I've also read about some problems when going 383, like rod ratio, and the piston being pulled to low in the cylinder and causing side load issues. Also I know short stroke engines rev better. I've built plenty of engines, and plenty of turbo systems, but I've never built a ls stroker, or touched a blower, so I'm in some uncharted waters here.......

 

[Looney Duner]

I am up to 8lbs of boost on my LS1........  not stroked.

Fuel pump died on the dyno.... 

Got new pulleys coming, hoping for 10-11lbs.

Will report out in my build thread!!!!!!

I'd love to see the outcome

 

[lincster]

I'd love to see the outcome

Hopefully know today!!!!!

 

[J Alper]

Shooting for 650-700

Budget? I haven't really set one cause it will go out the window at some point 

Doing all the work myself 

Fuel system and ecu will be upgraded at the same time

Pump gas

Long rides... 

I'm really just trying to figure out if it is worth going 383 or not. I can save some money not going stroker. And it seems like it's only good for a few extra ponies anyway. I've also read about some problems when going 383, like rod ratio, and the piston being pulled to low in the cylinder and causing side load issues. Also I know short stroke engines rev better. I've built plenty of engines, and plenty of turbo systems, but I've never built a ls stroker, or touched a blower, so I'm in some uncharted waters here.......

@itsweeks Strocker is now 9 years old,  it really is about the correct Clearances for the applications,  that is why so many street car motor builders struggle with offroad sand cars,  

383 should give you with a camshaft around 580-600 hp depending on heads,  with LS7 small bore heads we got close to 650 crank but the torque stayed closer to 580, on pump gas with mid 10's on compression,  If you stroke the motor, all the components go to Chromoly Crank, Forged Rods and Forged pistons,  so that is solid, long rides no issues, 

If you want to push to the 700 it going to take some boost,  Supercharger give way more off the line but the turbo can get more free power, it take good amount to move the supercharger 

Boost, long rides is going to determine keep the Air Cool,  if the air temp goes up and hits a point of detonation then the motor will be done,  so Air temp is key on a boosted motor,  to fight air temp detonation, it is all about air cooling or hi octane,  Boost i always recommend adding some race fuel mixture,   Boost give the best power but you have to pay close attention to the Octane, Air Temp, Spark, Plugs and if it is a turbo - Oil Temp, 

Also do a lot of 445 builds we use a LS block and add Darton Sleeves - sleeves are longer for the extra stroke and then uses a 4.100 crank and 4.165 piston with big heads makes over 700 at the crank on pump gas,  

 

[Rockwood]

@itsweeks Strocker is now 9 years old,  it really is about the correct Clearances for the applications,  that is why so many street car motor builders struggle with offroad sand cars,  

383 should give you with a camshaft around 580-600 hp depending on heads,  with LS7 small bore heads we got close to 650 crank but the torque stayed closer to 580, on pump gas with mid 10's on compression,  If you stroke the motor, all the components go to Chromoly Crank, Forged Rods and Forged pistons,  so that is solid, long rides no issues, 

If you want to push to the 700 it going to take some boost,  Supercharger give way more off the line but the turbo can get more free power, it take good amount to move the supercharger 

Boost, long rides is going to determine keep the Air Cool,  if the air temp goes up and hits a point of detonation then the motor will be done,  so Air temp is key on a boosted motor,  to fight air temp detonation, it is all about air cooling or hi octane,  Boost i always recommend adding some race fuel mixture,   Boost give the best power but you have to pay close attention to the Octane, Air Temp, Spark, Plugs and if it is a turbo - Oil Temp, 

Also do a lot of 445 builds we use a LS block and add Darton Sleeves - sleeves are longer for the extra stroke and then uses a 4.100 crank and 4.165 piston with big heads makes over 700 at the crank on pump gas,  

Amazing how much knock resistance even a 1:10 leaded race to pump ratio gets you.  O2 sensors aren't fans, so replace regularly or turn off closed loop learning at higher throttle.  

 

[Fullthrottleguy]

I'll throw in my 2 cents  and try to keep it (short for me, I tend to ramble. sorry)  - since I have done ALOT of KB SC cars  for the sand  - in fact rebuilding a 2.8KB car engine right now  ... just finished another  Big dollar build with KB, and have been working with some engineers on some cool tech for them -  should be available later this season ...

Here is my take  .

The general SC rules apply everywhere  ... Including the sand.  The advantage we have is that we can Load the engine easier (paddles) and get into boost lower than a street application

If you are running 91 Octane the max boost you can use will be 10-1 Lbs - trying to do more will cause you to limit timing severely and you'll make less power

The KB 2.6 is pretty good if its intercooled - its likely the early corvette belt line (X body) - that means the lower profile intercooler (heat exchanger)  

unless you run e85 you will need a big heat exchanger (radiator)  and good Bosch or better pump  and a copuple fans  and air flow to keep the IAC's down at 11lbs or more

If you have an older non intercooled corvette kit you will have a challenge making your HP wants ...and being a 2.6  likely 2003 vintage it could go either way ....  ( no water lines on the manifold is the tell for non-intercooled)   - you will be limited to 7Lbs boost or run e95 (cooling effect) and get to 10Lbs max    there is a fix for that ... but thats another thread ..

The general rule for any  SC engine is that at 1 Bar above ambient (so 2 Bar) at 14.7lbs,  Boost will double the HP of the NA engine  minus pumping losses.  On the KB 2.6  that will be ~ 50HP pumping loss at 11Lbs (super efficient blower) so if you build a good NA engine  not a "max effort" that makes power in upper RPM only and do an engine that makes good  power 2000-6000 RPM  whatever that NA number is  - thats your base

In general on pump gas with IAT  (intake temps) below 180 degrees ANY an PD SC will make 22HP per pound of boost on 91 and 33 HP per lb on e85  (with proper timing) where the boost is 10-11lbsBlower size and type Roots or screw does not matter  as long as the IATs stay low  and the cam does not bleed the boost of back up the boost  (bleed is too big a cam and boost blows out on overlap) (Back up is where cam ti ming is just wrong  - lots of cams do this - and report boost that way higher than it really is because the boost is backing up in the manifold - this is more common on roots SCs since they  make boost in the manifold and Screw blowers make boost in the SC)

Crank HP wise  -  the difference between a reasonably built 5.7 and 383 is about 50HP assuming the RPM  range is the same ands limited to 6400-6500 RPM  - the real, win is in 75-85 Ft Lbs of torque gained by the 383 Cu in  and stroke 

In NA world thats big - you can feel TQ ( the difference being wheeling and not wheeling in most cars) , in SC world it only matter before the transition  to boost, that is to say  that from idle until you get into boost  that extra TQ is good, but once in Boost the TQ of the SC is way more (100's of FT lbs more generally) , so you will only notice the difference  between idle and ~ 3000RPM, so is it worth going 383?

Yes and no  .. since you are rebuilding anyway - you have to buy pistons and Rods (forged) and balance etc ..   - the stock 5.7 crank is forged and good for 1000+ HP so  so you will be saving  near  $1000 on  a decent crank  and you will have pay or do yourself some relieving on the block for the stroke

If you are going e85 (or 112-116 race gas)  and want to push 15+ Lbs of boost you will be putting a bigger strain on the crank  - the SC wants to twist the Lower pullety and thereby twist the crank snout off (that happens a lot actually)  so you need a Good Crank and the Stock crank (because its good and because the throw is short on the snout) is way better than say and Eagle, Scat, or Manley lightweight under $1000 crank you have to step up to a Callies Magnum or Molnar, or some other good crank to be safe ...  So the cost of going going stroker 383 gets higher than "just a crank"

383 also will pull the pistons out of the bottom of the sleeve  and "rock them which wears the skirts and also uses oil  - so over time the 383 will wear out faster .. of course you can sleeve the block and use a longer sleeve (I Think @JAlper mentioned that) , but that is 1000's more $  and makes no more HP, althoiugh if you are sleeving it now you can go 427/428n (4.125 bore)   but then you will want to dump your cathedral heads not because they cannot support the HP - actually Catheral heads make more TQ under 4000 RPM than Rec Port LS3 or Sq Port LS7  - way more than LS7s and SC's really don't care about flow at these power levels (get up over 1200HP and it matters)   as long as the valve is big enough, because they stuff the air in ... but because the valve will be "shrouded" in the bigger bore and flame travel will be impeded and you could get a hot spot ( detonation)  and thats bad  - so you cut timing and power and on and on..... 

Way more to this but for brevity  ...

383 is nice for a Pump Gas SC  = especially a KB  2.6 or 2.8  Spend the money and buy am 102MM TB on a 383 you will make 35HP over the 92 on a 383 KB

You can make 700-720HP at the crank  with that combo  (using the KB 2.6 with 11Lbs of boost) at 9.8:1, to 10:1  decent cathedral Heads and the right cam ( assuming the blueprinting is done well) 

I would do a 10% over balancer and 4.0 Pulley on top - no slip on 6 rib  and ~9-10Lbs , if you go 3.75" pulley  you will pick up 2Lbs of boost  - might put you at 12Lbs  - and you will have to cut timing a bit, the 9LBs  is likely to make more power  (I have done this combo MANY times )

It will be fun to drive as the transition  from no boost to boost will be really smooth  and you will like the wheelies

if you want more HP than that will give you  - you have to step up on the $$   nd lower compression 9:1 to 9:5 to 1 and run race fuel or e85 

the 5.7 will be really close  - just under 500HP at the crank on 91  but 550-600Ft TQ -  the car will be faster/Quicker than and 650RWHP NA car and way more fun to drive  - "Torque moves the mass" - as the racers say 

Dyno's vary but I see that consistently  and it depends on your ECM and how much easy tuning you can do reasonably (like a Holley that is awesome IMO)

As far as reving goes  - LOL  thats somewhat of an old wife's tale  - RPM KILLS engines  - you have to rev NA engines up to make real HP  - engines are air pumps  - you need bigger heads and bigger cams  to achieve  the velocity needed to suck enough air and fuel in make HP  ...   an engine that goes 7200 RPM  will not last nearly as long as one that goes 6500 .. and anything over 7200 ish on an LS should have BIG  valve springs super light retainers and solid lifters  - and all that just sucks  because you have be adjusting it and you'll wear the guides in the heads pretty quick  - unless again  you spend big dolllars on the parts and even then - if you don't adjust it all the time  - it will break and break bad ,,,

Blower cars rev fast when built right - thats a function of the brain (cam)  and the tune  - people you cannot tune  (or more likely are lazy)  an SC make them too safe in mid range and FAT fuel maps rev slower  - 

but thats a whole different subject ...

a Blower car will make all the power you need by 6400RPM or its built wrong (combo)  the exception being a max-effort deal  thats no fun to dune - but screams on the drags - and if you are doing that go Turbo... they will freight-train Blower cars at the drags  and yoiu can leave at full boost  etc ...

 By The Way - if you want to know good cam combos for that 5.7 or 383 DM me

 

[Fullthrottleguy]

Amazing how much knock resistance even a 1:10 leaded race to pump ratio gets you.  O2 sensors aren't fans, so replace regularly or turn off closed loop learning at higher throttle.  

@Rockwood you are so right ... It's true lead is a fabulous thing, except it lower IQ in children and stuff like that  ......  I won't use leaded race gas personally not because of that even though its way easier than e85 all around  ...but, beyond the "compensation" advantages of modern ECMs to correct on the fly, I like the idea of seeing the AFR on the dash

 Some wideband 02's are harder to poison than others . For instance the LSU 4.9  17025's that the Term X and the Motec 130 use will get poisoned in days  vs.  some take months..  Once Poisoned, most ECMs go full rich - not a good experience   and most people that use race gas don't realize its leaded and freak out on forums and blame the ECM ... While  Its easy to get a decent tune and then disable 02's like a lot of tuners do .. it seems  just wrong to me, taking a modern ECM and making it a "MEFI"   Kinda defeats the purpose. 

 

[Rockwood]

@Rockwood you are so right ... It's true lead is a fabulous thing, except it lower IQ in children and stuff like that  ......  I won't use leaded race gas personally not because of that even though its way easier than e85 all around  ...but, beyond the "compensation" advantages of modern ECMs to correct on the fly, I like the idea of seeing the AFR on the dash

 Some wideband 02's are harder to poison than others . For instance the LSU 4.9  17025's that the Term X and the Motec 130 use will get poisoned in days  vs.  some take months..  Once Poisoned, most ECMs go full rich - not a good experience   ands most people use race gas don't realize its leaded and freak out on forums and blame the ECM ... While  Its easy to get a decent tune and then disable 02's like a lot of tuners do .. it seems  just wrong to me, taking a modern ECM and making it a "MEFI"   Kinda defeats the purpose. 

Yeah, there are definitely advantages, especially when you have safeties programmed in for when your fuel filter gets clogged, or your FPR’s vacuum line gets a leak, or whatever. 

I’ve left it in for part throttle. WOT, I prefer set tables since I’m less interested in oil contamination and more worried about holing a piston, and pay attention to how it’s running. Everything I’ve messed with is Nissan though, and times have certainly changed since then.

Lead tastes good too. :bag:  

I’ve had decent luck “restoring” sensors with a blow torch, but they’re definitely a once a season “wear item” even only running 1:10 mix.

 

[Looney Duner]

I'll throw in my 2 cents  and try to keep it (short for me, I tend to ramble. sorry)  - since I have done ALOT of KB SC cars  for the sand  - in fact rebuilding a 2.8KB car engine right now  ... just finished another  Big dollar build with KB, and have been working with some engineers on some cool tech for them -  should be available later this season ...

Here is my take  .

The general SC rules apply everywhere  ... Including the sand.  The advantage we have is that we can Load the engine easier (paddles) and get into boost lower than a street application

If you are running 91 Octane the max boost you can use will be 10-1 Lbs - trying to do more will cause you to limit timing severely and you'll make less power

The KB 2.6 is pretty good if its intercooled - its likely the early corvette belt line (X body) - that means the lower profile intercooler (heat exchanger)  

unless you run e85 you will need a big heat exchanger (radiator)  and good Bosch or better pump  and a copuple fans  and air flow to keep the IAC's down at 11lbs or more

If you have an older non intercooled corvette kit you will have a challenge making your HP wants ...and being a 2.6  likely 2003 vintage it could go either way ....  ( no water lines on the manifold is the tell for non-intercooled)   - you will be limited to 7Lbs boost or run e95 (cooling effect) and get to 10Lbs max    there is a fix for that ... but thats another thread ..

The general rule for any  SC engine is that at 1 Bar above ambient (so 2 Bar) at 14.7lbs,  Boost will double the HP of the NA engine  minus pumping losses.  On the KB 2.6  that will be ~ 50HP pumping loss at 11Lbs (super efficient blower) so if you build a good NA engine  not a "max effort" that makes power in upper RPM only and do an engine that makes good  power 2000-6000 RPM  whatever that NA number is  - thats your base

In general on pump gas with IAT  (intake temps) below 180 degrees ANY an PD SC will make 22HP per pound of boost on 91 and 33 HP per lb on e85  (with proper timing) where the boost is 10-11lbsBlower size and type Roots or screw does not matter  as long as the IATs stay low  and the cam does not bleed the boost of back up the boost  (bleed is too big a cam and boost blows out on overlap) (Back up is where cam ti ming is just wrong  - lots of cams do this - and report boost that way higher than it really is because the boost is backing up in the manifold - this is more common on roots SCs since they  make boost in the manifold and Screw blowers make boost in the SC)

Crank HP wise  -  the difference between a reasonably built 5.7 and 383 is about 50HP assuming the RPM  range is the same ands limited to 6400-6500 RPM  - the real, win is in 75-85 Ft Lbs of torque gained by the 383 Cu in  and stroke 

In NA world thats big - you can feel TQ ( the difference being wheeling and not wheeling in most cars) , in SC world it only matter before the transition  to boost, that is to say  that from idle until you get into boost  that extra TQ is good, but once in Boost the TQ of the SC is way more (100's of FT lbs more generally) , so you will only notice the difference  between idle and ~ 3000RPM, so is it worth going 383?

Yes and no  .. since you are rebuilding anyway - you have to buy pistons and Rods (forged) and balance etc ..   - the stock 5.7 crank is forged and good for 1000+ HP so  so you will be saving  near  $1000 on  a decent crank  and you will have pay or do yourself some relieving on the block for the stroke

If you are going e85 (or 112-116 race gas)  and want to push 15+ Lbs of boost you will be putting a bigger strain on the crank  - the SC wants to twist the Lower pullety and thereby twist the crank snout off (that happens a lot actually)  so you need a Good Crank and the Stock crank (because its good and because the throw is short on the snout) is way better than say and Eagle, Scat, or Manley lightweight under $1000 crank you have to step up to a Callies Magnum or Molnar, or some other good crank to be safe ...  So the cost of going going stroker 383 gets higher than "just a crank"

383 also will pull the pistons out of the bottom of the sleeve  and "rock them which wears the skirts and also uses oil  - so over time the 383 will wear out faster .. of course you can sleeve the block and use a longer sleeve (I Think @JAlper mentioned that) , but that is 1000's more $  and makes no more HP, althoiugh if you are sleeving it now you can go 427/428n (4.125 bore)   but then you will want to dump your cathedral heads not because they cannot support the HP - actually Catheral heads make more TQ under 4000 RPM than Rec Port LS3 or Sq Port LS7  - way more than LS7s and SC's really don't care about flow at these power levels (get up over 1200HP and it matters)   as long as the valve is big enough, because they stuff the air in ... but because the valve will be "shrouded" in the bigger bore and flame travel will be impeded and you could get a hot spot ( detonation)  and thats bad  - so you cut timing and power and on and on..... 

Way more to this but for brevity  ...

383 is nice for a Pump Gas SC  = especially a KB  2.6 or 2.8  Spend the money and buy am 102MM TB on a 383 you will make 35HP over the 92 on a 383 KB

You can make 700-720HP at the crank  with that combo  (using the KB 2.6 with 11Lbs of boost) at 9.8:1, to 10:1  decent cathedral Heads and the right cam ( assuming the blueprinting is done well) 

I would do a 10% over balancer and 4.0 Pulley on top - no slip on 6 rib  and ~9-10Lbs , if you go 3.75" pulley  you will pick up 2Lbs of boost  - might put you at 12Lbs  - and you will have to cut timing a bit, the 9LBs  is likely to make more power  (I have done this combo MANY times )

It will be fun to drive as the transition  from no boost to boost will be really smooth  and you will like the wheelies

if you want more HP than that will give you  - you have to step up on the $$   nd lower compression 9:1 to 9:5 to 1 and run race fuel or e85 

the 5.7 will be really close  - just under 500HP at the crank on 91  but 550-600Ft TQ -  the car will be faster/Quicker than and 650RWHP NA car and way more fun to drive  - "Torque moves the mass" - as the racers say 

Dyno's vary but I see that consistently  and it depends on your ECM and how much easy tuning you can do reasonably (like a Holley that is awesome IMO)

As far as reving goes  - LOL  thats somewhat of an old wife's tale  - RPM KILLS engines  - you have to rev NA engines up to make real HP  - engines are air pumps  - you need bigger heads and bigger cams  to achieve  the velocity needed to suck enough air and fuel in make HP  ...   an engine that goes 7200 RPM  will not last nearly as long as one that goes 6500 .. and anything over 7200 ish on an LS should have BIG  valve springs super light retainers and solid lifters  - and all that just sucks  because you have be adjusting it and you'll wear the guides in the heads pretty quick  - unless again  you spend big dolllars on the parts and even then - if you don't adjust it all the time  - it will break and break bad ,,,

Blower cars rev fast when built right - thats a function of the brain (cam)  and the tune  - people you cannot tune  (or more likely are lazy)  an SC make them too safe in mid range and FAT fuel maps rev slower  - 

but thats a whole different subject ...

a Blower car will make all the power you need by 6400RPM or its built wrong (combo)  the exception being a max-effort deal  thats no fun to dune - but screams on the drags - and if you are doing that go Turbo... they will freight-train Blower cars at the drags  and yoiu can leave at full boost  etc ...

 By The Way - if you want to know good cam combos for that 5.7 or 383 DM me

So, this is helpful.

The kenne bell is intercooled, and f-body belt line. I have a 6.75 lower pulley and Mike at kb recommended a 3.5 upper pulley, which I think is going to be over my target of 10-11 psi.

I think I'm going to keep the stock crank for now, and spend the money on good pistons and rods, looking at about 9.1 0r 9.2 on the compression, and the biggest heat exchanger I can find, with the bosch water pump. I'm trying to keep it as safe as possible. 

 

[lincster]

So, this is helpful.

The kenne bell is intercooled, and f-body belt line. I have a 6.75 lower pulley and Mike at kb recommended a 3.5 upper pulley, which I think is going to be over my target of 10-11 psi.

I think I'm going to keep the stock crank for now, and spend the money on good pistons and rods, looking at about 9.1 0r 9.2 on the compression, and the biggest heat exchanger I can find, with the bosch water pump. I'm trying to keep it as safe as possible. 

Get the Pierburg CWA400 pump.

Much better flow characteristics than the bosch.

Google that number and you can find all the info.

Pierburg makes 3 models.

I started with the 100 and went the 400 this summer with my bigger heat exchanger.

 

[Fullthrottleguy]

So, this is helpful. 

The kenne bell is intercooled, and f-body belt line. I have a 6.75 lower pulley and Mike at kb recommended a 3.5 upper pulley, which I think is going to be over my target of 10-11 psi.

I think I'm going to keep the stock crank for now, and spend the money on good pistons and rods, looking at about 9.1 0r 9.2 on the compression, and the biggest heat exchanger I can find, with the bosch water pump. I'm trying to keep it as safe as possible. 

Get the Pierburg CWA400 pump.

Much better flow characteristics than the bosch.

Google that number and you can find all the info.

Pierburg makes 3 models.

I started with the 100 and went the 400 this summer with my bigger heat exchanger.

F body belt line - wow thats pretty rare  for an Intercooled KB 2,6 

Mike is really good, but his LS knowledge takes a Back seat to his Mustang and Hemi knowledge

3.75 Pulley might be OK depending on the cam ...

We have all switched to the Davies Craig Electric Water Pump  Model # DC-8160 for big intercoolers because they are great flowing and pretty cheap around $160 you should have an expansion tank and 15Lb cap with any High performance pump - you will also likely have to burp the system - its easy to get air in the system.

I think its smart on staying with the stock crank ...

 

[J Alper]

We typically vacuum fill our systems,  you can get a vacuum fill pretty cheap but make sure it fits the cap you are using, we have two one is a snapon, but the harbor freight works pretty good for odd applications like a SC system