Mid board Conversion thoughts?

[honEXduner]

When you lose a stub it takes everything out with it, brakes etc.    I have experienced 2 broken stub axles and 1 was the longest night of my life.   Deep in Gordon Wells getting the machine out was a nightmare.   

I understand most of the external stuff breaks off, but is it a situation where you could put a new stub in and bolt the hub back on to make it a 4 wheel roller vs a 3 wheel roller? Sure, you wouldn't have brakes or an axle on that corner but it beats dragging.  

 

[rampster]

I understand most of the external stuff breaks off, but is it a situation where you could put a new stub in and bolt the hub back on to make it a 4 wheel roller vs a 3 wheel roller? Sure, you wouldn't have brakes or an axle on that corner but it beats dragging.  

Sure beats dragging but have you tried to get a full size sand car out of the Deep soft dunes?   Even with 4 rolling tires it sucks.

 

[SANDPSYCHO]

Just one guys opinion here. I would suggest a Micro-Stub set up with a manufactured bearing assembly as the safest and most cost effective. The type 1 stub axle holds everything together so if you break the stub axle you lose everything including the wheel and brakes. There are some micro-stub setups with serviceable bearings that use the stub axle the same way the type 1 was used to hold it all together and if the stub axle breaks everything comes apart. The manufactured bearing assemblies used on most micro-stub kits (which are apparently in short supply at the moment) are good because the hub assembly (including the brake rotor) bolts to the bearing and the axle is used only to drive the hub and not hold the whole assembly together. If you break a stub with that setup you just need a tow strap cause the car will still roll. As far as your mid board question, They are awesome but they are expensive and more work. Like the captured bearing micro-stubs, the hub is independent of the axle. You would also improve your axle angles with the mid boards because your pivot point is further outboard. 

The stub axle is critical to the hub bearing. If you run a manufactured bearing with out the stub axle properly torqued the bearing hub will be destroyed very quickly. The stub axle does in fact hold it all together. I had a friend snap a stub axle on his car at China Wall. He thought it was a blown trans because the stub axle stayed in the bearing hub as it snapped right at the splines. Luckily a jeep guy towed him out to the washes. About a 1000 yards from wash road, the bearing hub came apart. The wheel came off, snapping off the brake caliper. 

When the bearing craps out everything might stay attached but your brake caliper rotor and whatever your tire rubs on gets messed up. I've had that happen twice.

 

[Lord of the Dunes]

I'm a fan of midboard hubs.

 

[honEXduner]

Sure beats dragging but have you tried to get a full size sand car out of the Deep soft dunes?   Even with 4 rolling tires it sucks.

Yep, been there done that- friend spun bearings in his engine midway between Olds and the Flagpole years ago - took about 5 hours with only a RZR1000 to drag him back to Gecko. 

 

[J Alper]

The midboards are a pain and overpriced unless you really need them, most do not need more travel just better shocks or better shock tuning, when the superstubs break or the bearing breaks you are in the same situation,   the best rout is the Midboard hub,  I will never be a fan of 930-CV on a 2d,  if you do a Microstub with a 934 you will never brake a CV or never brake a Axle, 

 

[Jtmoney714]

The midboards are a pain and overpriced unless you really need them, most do not need more travel just better shocks or better shock tuning, when the superstubs break or the bearing breaks you are in the same situation,   the best rout is the Midboard hub,  I will never be a fan of 930-CV on a 2d,  if you do a Microstub with a 934 you will never brake a CV or never brake a Axle, 

Are you talking about the mid board micro stub? Aside from reducing cv angle does it offer any other strength properties? If the stub breaks will the whee still come off? 

 

[Jaybird95]

Are you talking about the mid board micro stub? Aside from reducing cv angle does it offer any other strength properties? If the stub breaks will the whee still come off? 

Much stronger and the wheel will stay on.

 

[Sandkist]

Mid board micro stub. Bearing is press fit into the housing. Flange is press fit into the bearing. Stub axle clamps the flange and inner race of the bearing together. If the stub axle breaks than you are relying on the press fit of the bearing and flange to keep your wheel on ( I guess the brake caliper helps as well). 

 

[J Alper]

Are you talking about the mid board micro stub? Aside from reducing cv angle does it offer any other strength properties? If the stub breaks will the whee still come off? 

no, no, no,   

 

[J Alper]

i have broke some of the gear one super stubs, the old 28spline stub micros will break, but the new 33 microstubs i have pusing 1200HP and no issues,