onanysunday
Well-known member
- May 7, 2021
- 3,347
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Damn, I hate to see this. I was going to buy these bearings. Not only do you have all of the work but those units are not cheap. Crap.
Micro stub bearings
- Thread starter Jtmoney714
- Start date
I will tell you i just took other side off as well and there is 1/2in of play in the bearing after torquing initially and retorquing per their instructions. I dont trust these anymore so i will be finding another option. I dont know if its an install error or what but i have never had an issue with the Pro Am set. I replaced as they were just old and was told that Pro Am wasnt making replacements any longer. So for now original ones are going back in until i can find a suitable replacement.
Sandkist
Well-known member
- May 6, 2021
- 2,751
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chopshop
Active member
- May 6, 2021
- 110
- 37
I wonder if the crush sleeve spacer between the taper bearings was not to width spec . Either too wide making bearings loose or too narrow making them too tight .
Originally when i called Roy said that he wasnt going to produce them anylonger. Must have been a misunderstanding and spoke with him today and he still is making them and still has them. I think he isnt producing the entire kit any longer but still making the replacement bearings.
Banshee380
Active member
- May 7, 2021
- 87
- 107
Banshee380
Active member
- May 7, 2021
- 87
- 107
onanysunday
Well-known member
- May 7, 2021
- 3,347
- 3,103
Sure hope these hold up.
J Alper
Site Sponsor
- Apr 30, 2021
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I dont think it is a quality issue, I think the issue is just like a midboard working or failing, or a Ring a and pinion issue,
Personally I like getting my own bearings from Timken Direct Supplier, On my S4D i get bearings with matching Races,
The other issue i see is the Crush Washer, I think the issue is the Crush Washer is not working correctly, its to loose or to tight, sounds like it might be to tight on the bearings, and causing no lubrication on the fulcrums,
I would want to feel the preload of a assembled bearings and compare that to a build your own kit,
Personally I like getting my own bearings from Timken Direct Supplier, On my S4D i get bearings with matching Races,
The other issue i see is the Crush Washer, I think the issue is the Crush Washer is not working correctly, its to loose or to tight, sounds like it might be to tight on the bearings, and causing no lubrication on the fulcrums,
I would want to feel the preload of a assembled bearings and compare that to a build your own kit,
Punisher
New member
- Sep 3, 2021
- 46
- 22
ive put 1 bearing in my midboards since 2006.... doing 9-13 trips a year, and an avg of 1200-1500 miles per season, and you get more wheel travel..
Banshee380
Active member
- May 7, 2021
- 87
- 107
My issue was when I got everything installed I had a very very small amount of play when I jacked the car up only on one side. I was able to torque the 36mm nut more and it helped but I could still feel a small wobble. I wasn’t happy about that at all. Even also the machining was off on the back lip where the 10 (12 points) thread into and come out the back side it was rubbing. I went to Kartek and they said on the next batch they will cut another .10th of material off. I said cool thanks! I ran a washer and it helped the issue so I didn’t have to cut my bolts.
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J Alper
Site Sponsor
- Apr 30, 2021
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The VW style bearing housing had a spacer in the center, they torqued to 250lbs,
if this does not have a spacer or a crush washer, then torquing them down more than the front 2'' hollow, is going to be a issue,
is there a spacer between the bearings,
Pros,
if this does not have a spacer or a crush washer, then torquing them down more than the front 2'' hollow, is going to be a issue,
is there a spacer between the bearings,
Depends on the midboard we service so many of them over the years, The Cons of some of them
- Tatums
- No True inner seal, just a Lip seal this is really only a dust ring, so for the sand it will eat the bearing and leaks out grease if not maintained,
- Hub pretty much bolts flat to the arm, so has a low shear load,
- The 6 CV bolts push against the aluminum so they need to be tie wired to keep them together.
- Gray Area,
- same as a Tatum ( Was affiliated with Tatum for many years so same design) but use a steel plate that the cv bolt ride against, and notches for CV balls to be changed easier. Little better design than the Tatum, but still no true inner seal,
- Gear one,
- Stronger than a Tatum and Gray Area, do to the midboard goes into the mounting plate like a microstub, this increases shear load dramatically, but Still no True inner Seal,
- Proam / Kartek / JMar,
- Double the Price of the above Midboards,
Pros,
- Tatum is the Cheapest of the Mids, just got to keep them greased up on the bearings and clean the sand out of them,
- Gray Area, More money than the Tatum, but has a chromoly Plate for the CV bolts to push against, and the ball tracks notched all the way to the front, easy to replace cv parts
- Gear one, has a great design on the mounting that the bearing housing goes into the arm
- Kartek and Proam, Almost does not have to service in a sand car,
- They mount inside the arm so it is hard to shear them off,
- 15 bolts on the mounting, others use 12
- The Inner seal is a True seal, same as the outer seal,
- Bolts are shoulder bolts made for a Midboard other use standard or cut hardware,
- CV bolts go against a chromoly mounting plate, like a drive plate,
RPReplay_Final1670899518.mov
Roy makes the best parts IMO. The MS2500s are a really set up for micros.
Roy makes the best parts IMO. The MS2500s are a really set up for micros.
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