Micro stub bearings

Jtmoney714

Jtmoney714

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Got a Jamar micro stub bearing that’s showing some play. Made it almost 3 seasons on 35” tires. Is there a better or best bearing out there for a 33 spline micro stub?

 
That is a great bearing, kartek has the rebuildable style so you can tighten it up or replace the bearings 

 
J Alper said:
That is a great bearing, kartek has the rebuildable style so you can tighten it up or replace the bearings 
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I'm going to buy these units once this set of non rebuildable ones goes bad. A little bit pricey but then they are serviceable from that point forward.

 
onanysunday said:
I'm going to buy these units once this set of non rebuildable ones goes bad. A little bit pricey but then they are serviceable from that point forward.
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I was told the race guys are having issues with the re-buildable ones. Like not finishing races issue. 

 
I like the concept of a rebuildable bearing assembly, but the Kartek assemblies are held together with the micro-stub axle in the same manner the VW Type 1 assembly was held together. Why does that matter? If you break a micro-stub axle your wheel/tire and whole hub/rotor will fall off the car leaving you in a place where you are not able to even tow the car out as it will not roll. As hard as it is to buy bearing assemblies every couple years, I prefer the level of insurance of being able to move the case of a broken micro-stub. That's just my two cents. I have mid-boards that are slated to go on the car eliminating the need to buy the assemblies and I'll be able to re-build those. 

 
Mike E said:
I like the concept of a rebuildable bearing assembly, but the Kartek assemblies are held together with the micro-stub axle in the same manner the VW Type 1 assembly was held together. Why does that matter? If you break a micro-stub axle your wheel/tire and whole hub/rotor will fall off the car leaving you in a place where you are not able to even tow the car out as it will not roll. As hard as it is to buy bearing assemblies every couple years, I prefer the level of insurance of being able to move the case of a broken micro-stub. That's just my two cents. I have mid-boards that are slated to go on the car eliminating the need to buy the assemblies and I'll be able to re-build those. 
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Always that option. I guess 6k or more upgrade would be much better than a 300$ bearing… I haven’t had a bad enough experience with stubs to warrant it. I have seen issues with midboards too. Plus those rebuilds get spendy. I have a spare set up in the trailer that if I break I can easily get back on 4 wheels and get back to camp. 

 
All microstub bearing will eventually fall apart without a stub axle.  You cannot run them without a tightened stub axle. 

 
JM PRO said:
All microstub bearing will eventually fall apart without a stub axle.  You cannot run them without a tightened stub axle. 
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This is not correct.

There are a lot of vehicles built with this type of hub assembly. I know Every 2 wheel drive Suburban was built with the same hub assembly and there is no axle holding it together. 

 
EastMT said:
Thanks!

Why or how does the Pro Am unit not come apart if your micro stub breaks?
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The bearing assemblies are built in such a way that they will not separate and do not require an axle to hold the bearings tight. One flange bolts to the arm or spindle and the other has the hub bolts. The Kartek assembly uses tapered serviceable bearings (so does Gear One) the axle is what holds all of it together. Without an axle in those serviceable assemblies, all of the pieces will simply fall apart, so it you break the micro-stub axle everything comes apart including your wheel leaving the car. (happened to a friend)

 
I don’t know much about micro stubs or hubs on sandcars and am a bit confused. With the Pro Am bearing what am I left with if I break a micro stub axle as far as jerry rigging it to get back to camp or what are my options at that point? Will my fancy plastic molded safe sled work?

 
Mike E said:
The bearing assemblies are built in such a way that they will not separate and do not require an axle to hold the bearings tight. One flange bolts to the arm or spindle and the other has the hub bolts. The Kartek assembly uses tapered serviceable bearings (so does Gear One) the axle is what holds all of it together. Without an axle in those serviceable assemblies, all of the pieces will simply fall apart, so it you break the micro-stub axle everything comes apart including your wheel leaving the car. (happened to a friend)
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So with the Pro Am bearings the rear wheel will still be bolted to the hub if a micro stub breaks?

 
EastMT said:
I don’t know much about micro stubs or hubs on sandcars and am a bit confused. With the Pro Am bearing what am I left with if I break a micro stub axle as far as jerry rigging it to get back to camp or what are my options at that point? Will my fancy plastic molded safe sled work?
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With the Pro-Am style (Jamar/Empi/Etc) the bearing assembly mounts to the trailing arm with the three bolt flange. Your hub assembly (brake rotor and wheel) are then attached to the hub flange. The car will roll around without the need for a micro-stub axle to be in there at all. If you break a micro-stub axle you can remove the CV and Axle assembly on that side and you are able to tow the car as the wheel is still there. On a serviceable assembly (including Gear-One, Kartek and the original Type 1 VW) the stub or micro-stub axle holds the bearings in place and holds the hub assembly on the car. If you break that your brakes and you wheel assembly will fall off. Your bearing will be in the sand and you won't be able to roll the car. 

 
Mike E said:
With the Pro-Am style (Jamar/Empi/Etc) the bearing assembly mounts to the trailing arm with the three bolt flange. Your hub assembly (brake rotor and wheel) are then attached to the hub flange. The car will roll around without the need for a micro-stub axle to be in there at all. If you break a micro-stub axle you can remove the CV and Axle assembly on that side and you are able to tow the car as the wheel is still there. On a serviceable assembly (including Gear-One, Kartek and the original Type 1 VW) the stub or micro-stub axle holds the bearings in place and holds the hub assembly on the car. If you break that your brakes and you wheel assembly will fall off. Your bearing will be in the sand and you won't be able to roll the car. 
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Thank you for the explanation. For me that sounds like it is worth the cost to upgrade to the Pro-Am style 

 
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