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Mac
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- May 3, 2021
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Thanks Johnon post 152 10th pic there is a bolt hole in the side of the block that should be siliconed closed (both sides) or it lets sand in the bellhousing area
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Thanks Johnon post 152 10th pic there is a bolt hole in the side of the block that should be siliconed closed (both sides) or it lets sand in the bellhousing area
this attention to detail is top notch!Lots of work this weekend. Got the engine harness married with the computer harness. Checked, loomed, heat shrunk and now installed. I did forget one sleeve of heat shrink and ended up unwinding the main connectors to slide a piece on. After all this work, I wasn't going to have one joint with electrical tape....dammit.
Got the harness installed and terminated to the relay panel. Played around with routing to make sure I had slack and nothing touching where it would get hot. I had to drill and tap a couple spots to get clamps where I wanted them. I had to order more clamps to start going over the hoses.
The next steps are to start terminating accessories and the ECU power supply to the SwitchPro.
Other mentionables....Got the rear suspension powder coated, ordering GearOne super CVs and waiting to finish the engine setup before installing the rear suspension.
I assume you have something back-feeding the ECU switched circuit. With the battery unplugged, use a DMM and probe for continuity from the ECU trigger coming out of the Switch Pro to the output side of the relays for the fans and other ECU-on circuits to see if you're looping power somewhere.We have power!
Having a configuration issue. Everything works as advertised with the exception of ECU power. It comes on but when you try and turn it off through the SwitchPro, it cycles the fans and won't turn off. You have to kill the battery.
Are your fan relays still grounded by the FT?We have power!
Having a configuration issue. Everything works as advertised with the exception of ECU power. It comes on but when you try and turn it off through the SwitchPro, it cycles the fans and won't turn off. You have to kill the battery.
Not sure I'm following.I assume you have something back-feeding the ECU switched circuit. With the battery unplugged, use a DMM and probe for continuity from the ECU trigger coming out of the Switch Pro to the output side of the relays for the fans and other ECU-on circuits to see if you're looping power somewhere.
Clean ass yob though, and looks actually functional, not just pretty.
There's probably one sad little strand of wire, or something stupid like an alternator light, somewhere making continuity back to the battery on the ECU's switched power wire (output of the Switch Pro). Either the ECU turns on relays (fuel pump, fans, ignition) that are then backfeeding the ECU switched power, or something else is hinky. Ruling out the switch pro would be just unplugging the output of it, or pulling the power terminal from it.Not sure I'm following.
I have a power distribution that has a main battery disconnect. From there, the power distribution feeds the relay power through breakers and the Switchpro. From the Switchpro, I have a main power on/off (button 8) then an ECU button to turn the ECU on (button7).
Everything is working with the exception that the Switchpro is not turning off the ECU. Once the relay is latched, it's not unlatching. I read out the Switchpro distribution and it is controlling power but the ECU circuit is only dropping to 6 volts and staying latched. Still troubleshooting this. I've removed wires form the relay and trying different combinations to try and figure this out.
cool!03/07 UPDATE
Electrical all checks out.
The issue was one wire was connected on the wrong really pole and yes, causing a looping issue. (@John@Outfront , Thanks for the input). So a reposition of that wire and everything works as advertised. I was cringing at the idea that I might have something off in my harness after all the work I put into it.