LS1 oil pan swap

[Rockwood]

Yeah I would bet 80% of LS cars built have the F body pan and they work - are they the best  - no but sub 500HP I never saw a problem , above that add the oil cooler and if possible swap the Oil pump 

Thats what I would do for the OP -  I personally don't love the Batwing they are always in the way 

Yeah.  Especially if you're just taking the motor out vice the whole drivetrain...

 

[Rockwood]

BTW, if you do cut the mounts out, the rearward leg of both frame side motor mounts appears to be bridging a butt-weld, so you'll want to make sure the end of a tube lands there or it'll crack (unless there's an inner sleeve and rosettes as well).

 

[Fullthrottleguy]

If you need a dry sump setup, lead time is 2-3 weeks, sorry this is without tank, but many economy tanks for $200, and used tanks for $100, for a sand car at 6500rpm the tanks can be pretty standard, 

• Kit will be a Aviaid 
  
• 3 stage pump bolt direct to block 
  
• oil pan for stroke up to 4.00 add $100 for stroke up to 4.100
  
• one belt
  
• pulley with pulley guard, 
  
• AN fitting for ls block 
  
• Hoses with fittings from oil pan to pump 
  

$1900

You will need a tank and ATi balancer, i can supply the balancer for $420, If you already have a ATI, then will just need a hub, they are around $260 from summit, and a remote oil filter 

Thinking about it, Alex is correct, you will be in it right at 3K for everything,  but well worth it,  I do not look at the gauges at all anymore, just drive the car hard, Oil stays super cool with no cooler and water has dropped 40 degrees now,  pump and hub bolt right on, 

Jason  I think thats the C kit?- I did an Aviaid 2 years ago the "d" kit was right at $3600 for everything  - thats the Billet pan vs the fab pan - fab pan is $3K

and finding room for that Huge tank is always fun ....

its nice to use a 5 stage with TT cars to scavege off the Turbos

I have to agree other than worrying about tossing the belt due to sand - your oil supply is bullet proof  - are you running a low OIL pressure shut off switch?  I have done those on every Dry sump for fear of sand pulling the belt off  - seems like a must

 

[lincster]

Yeah I would bet 80% of LS cars built have the F body pan and they work - are they the best  - no but sub 500HP I never saw a problem , above that add the oil cooler and if possible swap the Oil pump 

Thats what I would do for the OP -  I personally don't love the Batwing they are always in the way 

I agree with that.

When I added my blower, did an oil cooler, windage tray and better oil pump.

 

[J Alper]

Must not be too bad.

Have been running mine since 2004.

OP was asking for options, I gave him one.

But, I know if you don't approve, you bash on it.  All good

I dont mean do bash on you, it just really is a very bad pan for offroad, just like @Rockwood stated, they only have half a windage tray, and the pan has a hump in it for the crank to clear, the Camaro only used them for a couple of years, they are not really good on oil control and can foam easy,  the factory solid aluminum bearings on a stock crank will allow for the bearing to eat itself and not show wear to the eye due to it being solid aluminum, but a stroked motor really should change the pan, 

Good oil control - will lead to a motor being ran hard and never really needing a rebuild or loose any oil press over time, sorry @lincster this was not pointed towards you, just the pan,  at worst case i would use that pan with a Aviaiad oil pan spacer .500 and a full baffle from Mast Motorsports, 

My main goal is to have advise to make the motors live as long as they can, sorry did not mean to be rood,  They might not be a bad pan for the street, but for offroad they are the worst of all the LS pans, 2nd place would be the Corvette pan, it is so shallow, that on side hill with recording oil pressure, you can see dips in the data on pressure, that is another pan i would stay away from,  

 

[Chingon619]

While I have all ya'lls attention here, why am I also stressing the pickup tube? Can I reuse? Or gotta get the one for the pan? Basically asking, that $230 LS3 pan wouldn't be the only thing I need right?

 

[Rockwood]

While I have all ya'lls attention here, why am I also stressing the pickup tube? Can I reuse? Or gotta get the one for the pan? Basically asking, that $230 LS3 pan wouldn't be the only thing I need right?

Has to match.  The kit should have the pickup (I'm seeing $300-ish).  My condolences swapping the pickup, bring patience. :biggrin:

 

[Fullthrottleguy]

While I have all ya'lls attention here, why am I also stressing the pickup tube? Can I reuse? Or gotta get the one for the pan? Basically asking, that $230 LS3 pan wouldn't be the only thing I need right?

easy way is buy the "kit" from Improved oiling comes with the right windage tray., right pickup right dip stick and tube, pan and bolts, gasket etc

No guess work -  just make sure you use the correct O-ring on the pump pick up 

 A couple of the Online GM parts guys have "kits" as well like SD but they leave out stuff

that pan also has a Bypass you will want to buy the bypass plug (it like $7) from Improved oiling and if can still afford it buy the baffle if you want 10Hp more buy the sraper/windage tray option

 

[Chingon619]

easy way is buy the "kit" from Improved oiling comes with the right windage tray., right pickup right dip stick and tube, pan and bolts, gasket etc

No guess work -  just make sure you use the correct O-ring on the pump pick up 

 A couple of the Online GM parts guys have "kits" as well like SD but they leave out stuff

that pan also has a Bypass you will want to buy the bypass plug (it like $7) from Improved oiling and if can still afford it buy the baffle if you want 10Hp more buy the sraper/windage tray option

I'm starting to like my batwing pan lmfaoooo

 

[J Alper]

Jason  I think thats the C kit?- I did an Aviaid 2 years ago the "d" kit was right at $3600 for everything  - thats the Billet pan vs the fab pan - fab pan is $3K

and finding room for that Huge tank is always fun ....

its nice to use a 5 stage with TT cars to scavege off the Turbos

I have to agree other than worrying about tossing the belt due to sand - your oil supply is bullet proof  - are you running a low OIL pressure shut off switch?  I have done those on every Dry sump for fear of sand pulling the belt off  - seems like a must

We are a Dealer for them, i dont really do there numbered kit we have a part number list that we use, The standard sheet metal pan works good for most stroked motors, mine is a 4.250 so i had to do the 3'' sump pan,  talking with john the owner, he feels that is the best pan for all the motors, but the pan is 3'' compared to 1.5'' and adds $60 to the build sheet, if you weld the fitting on the pan and deduct the fitting in the block that will save $50,  

Most forget, that in that price on a new build,  pan will cost $250, tray from mast is $80, baffle $200 and mellings pump $160 close to $800,  so a dry sump should really be about 2K, difference, 

Power,  my motor is so snappy now, it feels like i did a cam change,  not sure what the hp gain is, but on a normal sand car motor, due to the soft suspension, the we sump i would feel, has the crank in the oil all the time, these chassis are never flat like a street car,  the are just whipping the oil all the time, 

So far in two years i have not lost a belt, but we run the thick wall Jones Fab pulley guard, they stick up about .125 above the belt, and are .250 thick on each side, i hve seen one bolt break on a bigblock, but it was dry rotted, belt was 10 years old, so for $60 i would change the belt every other year, 

I also run a oil light, this is a led tail light from the old school sand cars 1.5'' round, it is blinding when it come on,  

also i have the Holley HP setup to pull back timing under low oil pressure, enough timing it will stall the motor,  not sure if that is the right way to set the oil pressure sensor, but if not i think you should start a post on holley tips and tricks like the S4 gauge setup,  

 

[J Alper]

I'm starting to like my batwing pan lmfaoooo

if you have a 2 piece pan and keep it, i have a new gasket for it,  soon it will go in the trash,  still in the box, just pay shipping, 

 

[Fullthrottleguy]

if you have a 2 piece pan and keep it, i have a new gasket for it,  soon it will go in the trash,  still in the box, just pay shipping, 

Batwing hate is pretty universal I walk past a few at the local auto swap meet monthly for $20. Used 2010 up Camaro pans sell same day there for $200 with pickup

 

[Chingon619]

Ahhhh the joy!!! I got a sweet deal on an LS3 oil pan after I tried to fit my batwing within the allowed space under the engine mount. I came within a half inch of making it work perfectly. Yes, dropping the pan every time the engine had to come out lol once it was in and done, it rested on the lower tubes and didn't like it. 

So now, I'm all jittery because, yeah I got an LS3 pan for $110 with the pickup tube!! Woo-hoo!! It's the most dreamy oil pan in my cheap ass world until I put it on and noticed the hang uugghh!!! Man my measurements have been off lately good lawwd I can't catch a break!

I noticed some ebay specials for some low profile pan kits, I wonder how those covid I mean China pans do.

 

[Rockwood]

You have a welder right?  Burn some new mounts in :biggrin:

 

[Chingon619]

You have a welder right?  Burn some new mounts in :biggrin:

Well but then I'll need to move the trans mounts higher too, but I like how low the engine sits. I'm thinking my rear skid plate may have a skid bump over the pan. We'll call it the rear pumpkin! LOL 

 

[Rockwood]

Well but then I'll need to move the trans mounts higher too, but I like how low the engine sits. I'm thinking my rear skid plate may have a skid bump over the pan. We'll call it the rear pumpkin! LOL 

Naw, same spot, just different tubing going to it hoss. 
 

EDIT

NM. The batwing is making sweet lovin to the chassis tubes. 

 

[Dbotelho]

Has anyone thought about , tried or seen any sand car with an LS  running a factory GM dry sump oil pan set up from a corvette with an aftermarket tank. ? 
I would think this might be a alternative to an aftermarket dry sump setup.

 

[Rockwood]

Looked back through the measurements: you're facked.  Literally no oil pan appears to be able to fit within the cage.  Might as well build a skid, or you're going to have to tilt the whole drivetrain up....

 

[Chingon619]

Looked back through the measurements: you're facked.  Literally no oil pan appears to be able to fit within the cage.  Might as well build a skid, or you're going to have to tilt the whole drivetrain up....

Well, the builder mocked it with what looks like an F body pan. So not sure what I'll do still. She'll run that's for sure

 

[Rockwood]

Well, the builder mocked it with what looks like an F body pan. So not sure what I'll do still. She'll run that's for sure

View attachment 48085

F-body sticks even farther down and the sump area is only 2" shorter.  The entire sump area on the LS3 appears to be below the cage.

But yeah, run it and see what happens :biggrin: