J series-Breather Setup

ChasingSand said:
Where was the oil puking from? Also what seals were leaking?
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The oil was puking from my original breather box. It was located in the same location as my breather box now. It had a single -10 line running from factory location on valve cover. Oil was leaking around crank pulley, valve covers and pushing the dipstick out. It would spray oil out like a hose thru the filter on the breather.

 
Cookie said:
I run a turbo Honda, I virtually have zero blow by.  Why are you having so much blow by?  On my Subie, it meant an engine build was in the future.  I currently only have a breather, no catch can.
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I mentioned it earlier in this thread, I have very loose forged pistons. I called the manuf. of the pistons and they said it is very loose but within spec. Worse case is premature wear on the pistons. Engine runs great but at start up it sounds like a diesel truck. After she is warm it is game on!

I am heavily leaning towards tear down and sleeving the block this summer.  

 
JM PRO said:
My breather drains back to the engine so I have no idea if oil is making it up to the canister. If you would have seen the amount of oil I was puking before you could understand why I didn't want to take any chances. It made a mess and I thought I was going to catch on fire when the oil covered the entire side of the engine including the exhaust header. My boys got on the radio and were screaming fire, I jumped out of the car so fast and acted like Ricky Bobby and started running around the race track ....lol
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lincster said:
I wouldn't want to drain back to engine. 

Ever look at a oil fill cap after sitting overnight?

Condensation etc builds up when car sits, that goes back into your motor.
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If the high spot is the air filter, should just boil out.  With the regular catch cans, I always wonder if that garbage is condensating in the can, then splashing back in when side-hilling or hitting bumps.  

 
JM PRO said:
I mentioned it earlier in this thread, I have very loose forged pistons. I called the manuf. of the pistons and they said it is very loose but within spec. Worse case is premature wear on the pistons. Engine runs great but at start up it sounds like a diesel truck. After she is warm it is game on!

I am heavily leaning towards tear down and sleeving the block this summer.  
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My engine does the same thing. Has chased it for a long time till I learned about piston slap. at cold it sounds identical to this



 
Cookie said:
I run a turbo Honda, I virtually have zero blow by.  Why are you having so much blow by?  On my Subie, it meant an engine build was in the future.  I currently only have a breather, no catch can.
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Is your engine stock or forged internals? All of the stock junkyard engines I have ran have had near zero crankcase pressure running 10 pounds of boost. 

I have learned a lot with this built motor, wasted a lot of money on mistakes.

 
JM PRO said:
Is your engine stock or forged internals? All of the stock junkyard engines I have ran have had near zero crankcase pressure running 10 pounds of boost. 

I have learned a lot with this built motor, wasted a lot of money on mistakes.
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Stock motor with 10lbs of boost, good to know adding a few more pounds of boost I will need a catch can

 
JM PRO said:
What boost #'s you running?
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At the moment it made 420 at 6 psi.  I’ve been thinking of bumping it to 10, but I almost never get to put my foot in it cause my 6 year old gets mad at me lol.  

 
I spoke with the guys over at P2R and he offered some great insight. He mirrored what JM Pro had said above about seeing high crankcase pressure when a J series has new rods and pistons. He also advised to remove the baffles in the valve covers. He said stock motors even when turbo'd do not have the crankcase issues.

 
ChasingSand said:
I spoke with the guys over at P2R and he offered some great insight. He mirrored what JM Pro had said above about seeing high crankcase pressure when a J series has new rods and pistons. He also advised to remove the baffles in the valve covers. He said stock motors even when turbo'd do not have the crankcase issues.
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Is that do to additional gap in the rings or ?

 
What are your thoughts on the vent lines going to atmosphere versus a catch can? Any benefits or issues with either? Builder of my block and two of my other buddies said to run lines off valve cover and down to the ground but I see others with catch cans. 

Wondering what everyone's preference is/

 
I used a catch can to capture the vapor instead of blowing on my chassis.

If you ran lines like Funco for example, their lines exit out the back.

 
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