Installed new clutch...and slave cylinder. (ADJUSTMENT)

More info please.

What trans and engine?

What clutch?

What type of bell housing on trans (VW or Chevy (VW has starter mounted above trans, Chevy will have starter mounted under engine block)).
 
@SeanRitchie while we are at it (unless it posted somewhere else all ready) What or how we need to measure for an Internal slave clearance for the S4D chevy bell housing ?

Thank Jeff
 
Whipsandshyt said:
@SeanRitchie while we are at it (unless it posted somewhere else all ready) What or how we need to measure for an Internal slave clearance for the S4D chevy bell housing ?

Thank Jeff
Click to expand...
Crack the bleeder screw open on the side of the BH, push the throw bearing all the way against the trans.

Put a flat edge across the bell housing and measure the face of the throw out bearing to the edge of the bell housing. Record measurement.

Assemble the clutch on the engine, torque down all of the pressure plate bolts.

Measure from the fingers of the clutch to the BH mating surface of the engine block. You typically need to place a spacer on top of the fingers to get this measurement as the fingers are recessed in the pressure plate when torqued down, then subtract that spacer from the measurement. Record measurement.

You should have a .250" - .350" difference between these two measurements.

If you have less than .200", the slave cylinder piston is too long and needs to be replaced with a shorter piston.

If the measurements is more than .400", the piston is too short. You can either replace the piston with a longer one, or install .120" (3mm) spacers under the throw out bearing to get it closer to the fingers.

Pistons and spacers are available through Weddle.
 
SANDFORME said:
When you refer to 3/8 and 1/2" gap... what is the gap you are referring to? Thanks
Click to expand...
When trans and motor are assembled, the throw out bearing will be sprung back and held against the transmission. You can physically pull the arm on the outside of the bell housing and feel the throw out bearing stop against the clutch fingers. This is typically about 1/2"-3/4" of movement from it's resting position.

Use the adjustment screws on the slave cylinder piston to "shorten" the throw on this external arm until you only have about 1/4"-3/8" of free play by hand on that external arm.

Note that you should check the freeplay on the arm at least once a season. As the clutch discs wear down, the fingers on the pressure plate move towards the transmission and this freeplay gets less and less. Adjust as needed.

If you leave it as is and the fingers run against the throw out bearing, the slave cylinder could hold the pressure open as the discs wear down and then you start to slip the clutch and burn it up.
 
SeanRitchie said:
Crack the bleeder screw open on the side of the BH, push the throw bearing all the way against the trans.

Put a flat edge across the bell housing and measure the face of the throw out bearing to the edge of the bell housing. Record measurement.

Assemble the clutch on the engine, torque down all of the pressure plate bolts.

Measure from the fingers of the clutch to the BH mating surface of the engine block. You typically need to place a spacer on top of the fingers to get this measurement as the fingers are recessed in the pressure plate when torqued down, then subtract that spacer from the measurement. Record measurement.

You should have a .250" - .350" difference between these two measurements.

If you have less than .200", the slave cylinder piston is too long and needs to be replaced with a shorter piston.

If the measurements is more than .400", the piston is too short. You can either replace the piston with a longer one, or install .120" (3mm) spacers under the throw out bearing to get it closer to the fingers.

Pistons and spacers are available through Weddle.
Click to expand...
Great info like always Thank you
 
SeanRitchie said:
When trans and motor are assembled, the throw out bearing will be sprung back and held against the transmission. You can physically pull the arm on the outside of the bell housing and feel the throw out bearing stop against the clutch fingers. This is typically about 1/2"-3/4" of movement from it's resting position.

Use the adjustment screws on the slave cylinder piston to "shorten" the throw on this external arm until you only have about 1/4"-3/8" of free play by hand on that external arm.

Note that you should check the freeplay on the arm at least once a season. As the clutch discs wear down, the fingers on the pressure plate move towards the transmission and this freeplay gets less and less. Adjust as needed.

If you leave it as is and the fingers run against the throw out bearing, the slave cylinder could hold the pressure open as the discs wear down and then you start to slip the clutch and burn it up.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the explanation, Sean (y)
 
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