GVWR?

Bansh88

Bansh88

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I'm new and dumb...

I'm looking at a Tahoe Transport 33TB.  I don't quite understand weight ratings.  

Attached is my truck sticker and the 33TB info.  Am I good to haul that?

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The simple answer is yes. I don't believe you will load to much additional out of the norm weight that could put you over the limits. 

Your truck is rated for 3,254 pounds of cargo

1500 pound tongue weight, add another 500 to be safe

leaves you 1,254 pounds for everyone riding in the truck and anything you want to haul in the bed like firewood and gas cans

 
GVWR

 Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) is the maximum amount of weight that your trailer is rated to carry. This number INCLUDES the weight of the trailer itself and the cargo/equipment you plan to haul.

GCWR stands for Gross Combined Vehicle Weight Rating. This is the maximum total combined weight of both the vehicle and trailer.

 
GVWR for truck = the total weight vehicle is designed to carry on it (vehicle weight + passengers, cargo, and tongue/pin weight of trailer)

GVWR for trailer= total weight the trailer and its frame are rated for

GCWR for truck = total amount vehicle is rated for rolling down the road while towing

payload= weight vehicle is rated to handle in the bed of the truck (cargo and pin/hitch weight)

looks like all your numbers are good and you will have room to spare. I always take a truck empty to the scales when i purchase a new one so I know exactly what I’ve got when trailer is connected. I re weigh with trailer fully loaded down so I know what my gross combined weight/pin weight/ and cargo/passenger weight is. That way I know I’m good. Tire rating on trailer and truck are extremely important as well. Rear axle rating is pretty high in the new trucks and you would exceed your GVWR before getting close to your rear axle rating. I’m kind of a freak about weights to if you have any other questions, I’d be more than happy to help. 

 
dbart said:
GCWR stands for Gross Combined Vehicle Weight Rating. This is the maximum total combined weight of both the vehicle and trailer.
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Ah!

I just got a Curt 5th hitch that's a 16k so I'm wondering if I'd be pushing that?  Trailer would be hauling quads.  3-4 plus 1-2 70s.

 
For your own insight, I suggest weighing the trailer you are looking to buy. Most of the Stickers on the side of trailers are usually not accurate. 

 
just make sure you commiefornia drivers lic is sufficient for the weight.

 
Your truck will pull it fine...it's got the power, weight, brakes..etc.

Is the 33TB Fiberglass sides or Alum? FG adds weight they skip counting on that sticker is why I mention it. Just keep it in mind.

You can go get a Non-Com Class A letter if you like....but all your TH stickers will say your under the 14,999 anyway.

Yore good mang, doo eet.

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You will be fine and we are all waiting for you here on the dark side....

 
Are you concerned about what the truck can handle, what the trailer can handle, what you can handle, or what is legal? As stated earlier, the numbers work on paper. The sticker on the trailer is most likely inaccurate as most manufactures post them to be lighter than they really are. Now, going by what the sticker says, can it hold the quads and three wheelers along with food and gas, and water, and clothes, and dishes, and riding gear? I doubt it. So in the real world, pretty much everyone has an overloaded trailer or overloaded truck. My 16k 5th wheel hitch towed my weekend warrior that weighed a little over 18k for 10 years. 

 
Never hurts to drag it across some scales after it’s loaded for the first trip to make sure. Pay attention to rear axle weight on the truck and both axles on the trailer, as that’s where the problems usually are.  

Don’t do what I did the first time and end up with both truck axles on the same section of the truck scale…

 
Your truck will tow that trailer fine. There are convenient scales at the Pilot on the east side of Brawley if you want to know what it weighs for peace of mind.

 
Shiggins37 said:
Non commercial class A only required for a Bumper pull over 9999 and 5er over 14999
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To clarify as I went through all of this when I had a 5er;

standard class C license any trailer up to 10,000 lbs GVWR

non comm class A license req if bumper pull GVWR is 10,001 lbs or higher. 

non comm class A license req if 5th wheel/gooseneck is GVWR 15,001 lbs or higher.

restriction 41 / 5th wheel trailer endorsement required to standard class C license if 5th wheel GVWR is 10,001 - 15,000 lbs.

So on that note Bansh, if you wanted to play it by the book you should get the restriction 41 for your license if you're not already class A. It is just a written test and vision test, no medical cert or physical required. You're well within the listed weight ratings of your truck as well. The 16K 5er hitch you picked up is sufficient also.

 
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Big_Daddy_Jp said:
Are you concerned about what the truck can handle, what the trailer can handle, what you can handle, or what is legal? 
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Just want to make sure my truck and my white knuckles can handle it.

Gonna look at it tomorrow.   Older trailer, well used but also well taken care of, "it sounds like".

 
IThat’s why I always recommend weighing everything empty. My last 2 trailers (Tahoe Transport bumper pull and Pacific coach works blazen both weighr within 100 lbs of their posted UVW surprisingly enough. That Tahoe transport was built like a tank!

My current setup is a 2019 F250 diesel with a 35’ Pacific Coachworks Blaze’n that weighs 11,600 with the essentials in it and about 15k ready to go with RZR and water. Ties like a dream and never sways even in terrible winds. The new trucks handle trailers amazing and as long as the toys are loaded correctly not an ounce of white knuckling. 

 
Shiggins37 said:
GVWR for truck = the total weight vehicle is designed to carry on it (vehicle weight + passengers, cargo, and tongue/pin weight of trailer)

GVWR for trailer= total weight the trailer and its frame are rated for

GCWR for truck = total amount vehicle is rated for rolling down the road while towing

payload= weight vehicle is rated to handle in the bed of the truck (cargo and pin/hitch weight)

looks like all your numbers are good and you will have room to spare. I always take a truck empty to the scales when i purchase a new one so I know exactly what I’ve got when trailer is connected. I re weigh with trailer fully loaded down so I know what my gross combined weight/pin weight/ and cargo/passenger weight is. That way I know I’m good. Tire rating on trailer and truck are extremely important as well. Rear axle rating is pretty high in the new trucks and you would exceed your GVWR before getting close to your rear axle rating. I’m kind of a freak about weights to if you have any other questions, I’d be more than happy to help. 
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if that sticker is on your truck i believe the gvwr of 11500 is the truck rating cargo tongue weight the total weight of truck 

GCWR of 27500 is the gross combination truck and trailer 

i would just put it on a scale once and check the axel weights don't exceed the rating on the tires there are weight ratings on the tires at the tire manufactures inflation pressure.  so if the tires say 3250 per tire x2 7000 per axel if your over on the rear axel you can add a weight distribution hitch which will move some of the weight off the rear tires and put it on the front axel and trailer. either way the truck has a max tow rating of 18500 and your only towing 13500 so your way safe run it 

 
I had a tahoe 26tb. Was a GREAT trailer. Do be careful with the tanks. The drain valve was old and brittle on the fresh Tank and it broke (was basically a 1/4 pipe plug) another issue i had; the distance between the crapper are the bottom of the holding tank was like 4-5” and if i didnt prefill the black tank with 10 gallons of water to allow waste to disperse, it would build up under the toilet

 
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