Funco GEN 4 rear suspension tips, tricks, mods, and upgrades.

AlpineFunco said:
I'll have to give John a call after I get the uniballs put into my arms.
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Don't use very much grease. At first when I put it together pushing in the spacers hydrolocked and wanted to push the seals back out. I had to much grease in there. If I did it again I would be very careful and keep the seal surface dry. Use a tooth pick to put grease around the uniball and move it around to work the grease in. I just used CV grease. 

 
onanysunday said:
I had seen Outfront John do it so when I did my S4 I added an additional gusset on each side of the trailing arm perch and then installed a larger bolt. IIRC it was a 9/16 super high strength bolt. This job is tough for two reasons. Number one the stock perch is very hard material and hard to drill or get a reamer through. Access is hard to get in there with a drill. Number two it is hard to get in there to weld those tabs in. But doable. Beefy! Also notice I took some 1/8 plate, wrapped and welded to the tube where the uniball presses in. I have heard of at least on failure there and did not want to take any chances. On those tabs I did machine thick spacers to move each gusset away from the tab slightly. Needed for clearance and to get it welded in.

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Is that -10 or -8 line running from the tank to the filter and from the filter to the pump? If it’s -10 did you have to open up the outlet from the tank? 

 
When I put in the S4 the sump needed to be cut for clearance. Yes it is a -10. Looks like we welded in a larger bung. 

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Pretty sure stock both holes are 1/4 pipe. I added a 3/8 pipe here. Thinking I was running the car with a fitting for a -10 that screwed into the 1/4 pipe hole. You would have to look at the ID of the fitting and your line.  My HP level for this car has always been 450-485. 58 psi with the A1000 pump. Ton of hours on that pump and I have a new spare sitting in the moho. 

 
Cool. I’m less than 400 with a stock Northstar. Going to put that pump in and would rather not pull the tank to have bigger bung welded in. Did you run the 1/4 pipe to -10 with that pump for a decent amount of time with no issues?

 
AlpineFunco said:
Cool. I’m less than 400 with a stock Northstar. Going to put that pump in and would rather not pull the tank to have bigger bung welded in. Did you run the 1/4 pipe to -10 with that pump for a decent amount of time with no issues?
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Been 3 years so I honestly can't remember why I went to a larger size. Probably because we were in their welding on it.  I am pretty sure I had a dash 10 suction all along on the stock bung.

 
onanysunday said:
Don't use very much grease. At first when I put it together pushing in the spacers hydrolocked and wanted to push the seals back out. I had to much grease in there. If I did it again I would be very careful and keep the seal surface dry. Use a tooth pick to put grease around the uniball and move it around to work the grease in. I just used CV grease. 
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Yeah, but WHAT CV grease?  😝

 
Finally doing my preseason inspection now. A little late in the game due to other things going on. Found this. :blury:

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I wonder how long that bag would last without that outer layer? Pretty thin. I will keep it as a spare for sure. Now I have two spares. lol

 
onanysunday said:
I wonder how long that bag would last without that outer layer? Pretty thin. I will keep it as a spare for sure. Now I have two spares. lol
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So if you have a spare, run it and see how long it will last. Only way to find out. Then you will know if it's worth keeping them as spares.

 
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richard h said:
So if you have a spare, run it and see how long it will last. Only way to find out. Then you will know if it's worth keeping them as spares.
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I will put a new one in. Not worth being deep in the dunes and loosing it. Car gets very unhappy. But I would not hesitate to use as a spare to get through a trip. 

 
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I got your back, Jack!!!

 
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