Freightliner chassis. Today was a " how in the world does this happen" Moment. Studs spinning in drums??

onanysunday said:
Called Freightliner and hubs and studs are both obsolete. This might get to be fun
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You should be able to buy the studs at any parts supplier that sells heavy duty. Napa, Fleetpride, etc
Just take a sample 

 
Being stuck on the side of the road and having this happen would be a disaster. New hubs (if you can find them) seems a reasonable course of action to prevent this in the future. it you fix one stud its a matter of time before the others have similar problems - with the TQ on those  they would have to seat well.Using and Impact with that force I can see why over time and a little corrosion (rust) form back east this would be an issue ...

 
I can tell you that you probably won’t find those 8 hole hubs so replacing the studs is really your only option and should solve your problem just fine. I’ve run across issues like this before with a ruined hub due to a bearing failure and was unable to find those 8 hole hubs new or used. It was on a semi truck. We ended up changing the hub to a 10 hole on that wheel position and changing out the wheels to 10s also but just on that one wheel position. I’m sure you wouldn’t want to do that on just one or even two wheel positions so that would mean changing over all wheel positions and all the wheels. That being said; just replacing your studs is probably looking more appealing. 

 
what is the part # i will ask my suppliers 

changing to 10 stud hubs in the one location may be the answer and used steel wheels are cheap

 
Well I am very happy we completely mis diagnosed this. Four of the nuts were simply spinning on the studs. Pulled the threads right out. I did have to work my four good nuts left over on and off the dinged up studs to help clean the threads up and then run the new nuts off and on with oil but got them all on there. $95 for eight nuts and just need to torque them now. I think they will torque fine. I did throw the tire Guy under the bus earlier because he did damage the lug nuts with too short of a socket but I honestly don't think he would have caused this problem. Thinking these were maybe over torqued at some point. He did say they were harder to get off and really fought with them. I had to even heat one with the torch almost cherry red and put a breaker bar on it. If I had needed to do studs that were spinning in the hub my dad had said simply weld in four little flat pieces of steel between two studs each to hold them in place. Genius.

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Just now remembered my coach was at a big tire shop in town within the last year. We deleted the hose extensions at the rear dual wheels which completely got rid of any slow leaks. I know for sure they only had one side off of the rear and then he reached up in there to remove the other side without removing the rear wheels on that side. Very suspect and they could have over torqued those nuts. Hmmm. Git er done! While it is on the rack I have new air bags in the rear that need to go in. 

 
I don’t know anybody that actually measures torque on those big studs. I run em down as tight as they’ll go with a 1” gun with 200psi behind it. I don’t really think over torquing is actually a thing with those.  

 
Rorschach said:
I don’t know anybody that actually measures torque on those big studs. I run em down as tight as they’ll go with a 1” gun with 200psi behind it. I don’t really think over torquing is actually a thing with those.  
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Well..... There is a torque spec. We were talking the same though as far as how do you over torque it.. But how do you explain 4 of 8 pulled threads at one wheel? Odd for sure.

 
Rorschach said:
I don’t know anybody that actually measures torque on those big studs. I run em down as tight as they’ll go with a 1” gun with 200psi behind it. I don’t really think over torquing is actually a thing with those.  
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i was going to say the same thing.   i did work for a bus company and my job was to retorque  the lug nut with a 6 ft torque and apply the torque seal [orange paint]

 
the old school 1” air wrench did over torque the nuts but not by that much but the new 1” guns hit way harder and over torque the studs way easier and faster. the guys that have been doing tires for years have started breaking studs.

my local big name tire shop now requires the nuts to get final torque with a clicker torque wrench as broken studs were becoming a big liability 

 
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