CV's breaking and statistics

EmpirE231

EmpirE231

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I am wondering on if there any stats on CV's breaking, and what side is more prone to breaking (tans side or hub side)

I know some people have constant CV problems due to design flaws or undersized CV's..... but outside of that, is the trans side more susceptible to breaking vs the hub side? or is there no difference there given geometry and design are all sound?

 
Yes,  ^^  unless theses cars are put together with AeroSpace tech  then one will always be weaker, 

First car i ever built with Trialing arms,  i just stuck the trans mount in and welded it did not check the angle,  the trans has a couple of degrees off and always broke that CV, 

Check your CV angle at each CV with a Protractor and see what the angle is,  they will all be a little different, 

 
I have not broken one, but I found some that were pitted up & one that does not plunge any longer (in annual maint). 

I can tell you for sure, on my PSD, the trans CV was a roughly 10*-15* hotter than the out-board CV and was a good 10-ish* hotter than the three 934 equipped cars in my group. 

 
 Nothing special just type 2 off-road on a mid travel have broken 2 in 15 years.both at trans side and a cage one was due to axles other one who knows why just random I guess. 

 
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I broke cheap 930s with my LS1 and 2d trans. It took a couple times to learn that there was better. I went with Fortin 930s and never broke again. It was always at the trans side. Now I'm running cheap 934s lol hopefully the size makes them stronger. 

 
never broke one just pitted stars 934 but i did have a axel that was cracked and not broken caught it during maintenance 

 
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 Having a DD, the trans side stars always were pitted or worn every hard dune season when I had 930's and a 2d. After I did the full pull and went with 934's, a S4, and moved my engine and trans back 4" to correct or make better the axle offset I never had a problem or a bad CV or star ever again. The temp difference between a 930 and 934 was hugh. Running 580 HP ,V8.

IMG_20181008_121616366_HDR.jpg

 
I have yet to have a broken cv in 4 different cars over the span of 13 years. Used to do biannual maintenance. Now I’m a lazy once a season guy. But I have switched from cat desert gold to bel ray/swepco mix. 

 
dunesteve said:
 Having a DD, the trans side stars always were pitted or worn every hard dune season when I had 930's and a 2d. After I did the full pull and went with 934's, a S4, and moved my engine and trans back 4" to correct or make better the axle offset I never had a problem or a bad CV or star ever again. The temp difference between a 930 and 934 was hugh. Running 580 HP ,V8.

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I also installed the greaser plates on the trans side. A few squirts middle of the season and done. 

 
dunesteve said:
 Having a DD, the trans side stars always were pitted or worn every hard dune season when I had 930's and a 2d. After I did the full pull and went with 934's, a S4, and moved my engine and trans back 4" to correct or make better the axle offset I never had a problem or a bad CV or star ever again. The temp difference between a 930 and 934 was hugh. Running 580 HP ,V8.

View attachment 83702
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Same thing with a friend’s DD: 930s constantly pitted and destroyed, trans was far enough forward to put the CVS at a 10*+ angle at ride height. We moved it back and the 930s lasted an entire season with zero wear. Went S4 and 934s as well, still no problems. 

 
I used to use cat gold but found it turned to mushy wet crap. Switched to the expensive stuff for awhile 75/25  swepco101, Belray . Was good until that new already mix came out. Forget the number. 

 
Rockwood said:
Same thing with a friend’s DD: 930s constantly pitted and destroyed, trans was far enough forward to put the CVS at a 10*+ angle at ride height. We moved it back and the 930s lasted an entire season with zero wear. Went S4 and 934s as well, still no problems. 
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Yeah that was a DD conundrum. They handled well for a rear engine but that stupid offset was a detriment. Best money I ever spent was switching. 

 
I've been lucky and haven't broken any CV's either... I guess I'll chalk it up to good geometry 

Once car had 930's w/ an LS1

This car has 934'S and a TT LS2 

currently taking them apart to see if I find any damage.  Just always wondered if one side was more prone to breaking / damage / wear than the other side.  Not sure if axle twist takes away some of the brunt force from the CV on the hub side, VS. the CV on the trans side. 

 
I have had 4 cars, I have never broken a CV, in fact I have never replaced a CV.  I inspect, clean and grease them annually as well (roughly 20-25 days of duning each year).  I have broken and axle once, kind of my fault.

All cars were 2D and 930's.  HP was anywhere from 300hp to 475hp.

 
dunesteve said:
I used to use cat gold but found it turned to mushy wet crap. Switched to the expensive stuff for awhile 75/25  swepco101, Belray . Was good until that new already mix came out. Forget the number. 
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That is the worst of the Grease, the Mantek hands down way better 

dunesteve said:
I also installed the greaser plates on the trans side. A few squirts middle of the season and done. 
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The greaser plate make the cv angle worse plus most are aluminum so it does not hold the CV to the cup as good as metal on metal,  you should drill the CV for Zerks instead 

Chingon619 said:
I broke cheap 930s with my LS1 and 2d trans. It took a couple times to learn that there was better. I went with Fortin 930s and never broke again. It was always at the trans side. Now I'm running cheap 934s lol hopefully the size makes them stronger. 
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Wait a minute   930's are not considered CV's  LOL,    930 will break in shipping,   934 is the way to go with any V8,   930 guys talk about broken cvs and axle around the fire day and night, 934 guys talk about everything but CV's   

 
J Alper said:
That is the worst of the Grease, the Mantek hands down way better 

The greaser plate make the cv angle worse plus most are aluminum so it does not hold the CV to the cup as good as metal on metal,  you should drill the CV for Zerks instead 

Wait a minute   930's are not considered CV's  LOL,    930 will break in shipping,   934 is the way to go with any V8,   930 guys talk about broken cvs and axle around the fire day and night, 934 guys talk about everything but CV's   
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Which grease are you referring to as the worst? The CAT grease, bel ray/swepco 101, or the premixed that he forgot the number for (swepco 164 maybe?)?

 
He can't remember. Lol

I sold my 18 year old DD and went to the other side. I'm now a bug. Sxs that is. 

IMG_20221031_114500194_HDR.jpg

IMG_20230228_170256739.jpg

 
I am and have been more into reliability than blingy bs for 38 years in the dunes, and beware of companies that will sell you a nickel and say it's a dime. 

 
J Alper said:
That is the worst of the Grease, the Mantek hands down way better 

The greaser plate make the cv angle worse plus most are aluminum so it does not hold the CV to the cup as good as metal on metal,  you should drill the CV for Zerks instead 

Wait a minute   930's are not considered CV's  LOL,    930 will break in shipping,   934 is the way to go with any V8,   930 guys talk about broken cvs and axle around the fire day and night, 934 guys talk about everything but CV's   
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Is so true !. If you have a V8 you need an S4 and 934's. Or a lot time, money to pee pee around fixing your 930's and 2 D's.

 
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