CV bolts

Just an FYI update. I have recently had to replace the wheel bearings in my Gray Area 934 mids.  They have now gone to a Koyo bearing and spec 65lbft for the 1/2" cv bolts with red loctite. You will need to either send the bearing plate or the complete hub in to GA for modification and maintenance. If you have a lathe you can do the easy mod yourself.

I had to replace the wheel bearings due to the fact that the hub was originally assembled ,direct from GA ,without the inner seal and the results was washed out wheel bearing grease killing the wheel bearings. One of the few times I haven't disassembled/inspected something before running. GA was good to deal with but they also basically ignored the fact they were the cause of my needing to spend $$$$ for their mistake. They gave me a small discount but would not even consider providing the missing seal(I didn't even ask for anything on the bearings at that point even though it was their fault for the failure).. I'm not very happy to say the least. It is what it is in the aftermarket though.

 
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I just couldn't do it.I just couldn't. That 65 torque on a 1/2" cv bolt just isn't right.  Most all use around a 100 and I can see no reason for such a low number on these.  Anyway I went ahead and torqued to 100 and the hubs turned the same as with 65. I feel a lot better now right or wrong.  I just can't see relying mostly  on loctite and safety wire to keep a bolt tight.. .My 2 cent opinion.

 
fabr said:
Just an FYI update. I have recently had to replace the wheel bearings in my Gray Area 934 mids. They have now gone to a Koyo bearing and spec 65lbft for the 1/2" cv bolts with red loctite. You will need to either send the bearing plate or the complete hub in to GA for modification and maintenance. If you have a lathe you can do the easy mod yourself.

I had to replace the wheel bearings due to the fact that the hub was originally assembled ,direct from GA ,without the inner seal and the results was washed out wheel bearing grease killing the wheel bearings. One of the few times I haven't disassembled/inspected something before running. GA was good to deal with but they also basically ignored the fact they were the cause of my needing to spend $$$$ for their mistake. They gave me a small discount but would not even consider providing the missing seal(I didn't even ask for anything on the bearings at that point even though it was their fault for the failure).. I'm not very happy to say the least. It is what it is in the aftermarket though.
Click to expand...

OK,it has come time for both hubs to be serviced . I am totally confused on what the hell the reason was for a mod to the hub and a bearing spacer. As posted above, I had to replace hub bearings (driver side)due to the hub missing the inner seal from the factory. I was told the replacement Koyo bearing would assemble slightly thinner and would need the spacer ,supplied by GA,to get preload right. Fine,I was good with that.

Now I have both hubs apart and I find that the Koyo bearings in the drivers hub and the original(whatever brand) are the same exact width as would be correct for Timken and Koyo. Since there are no markings on the original (passenger side) bearings I would have to assume they are the ones GA had made in India . Bottom line is why did I have to do a mod to the hub and use a spacer with the Koyo bearings since apparently all 3 bearings are of the same spec width? Were the China bearings wider?

I do not recall what the mod was now. Regardless, all the hub components dimensions are the same side to side and the bearing widths are the same yet I have a approx. .050" spacer on one side. Something is not right. I either have one side with way too much preload or one side too loose. When new both hubs took about a 4 foot bar to be able to turn them with a lot of effort. In all honesty that seemed way the hell too much but was told they would loosen up. Well they did apparently as the passenger (no spacer behind the bearing)side bearing has worn a groove maybe .025 deep in the hub. That side did develop a barely noticeable bit of camber.

I am a bit mystified how the hubs can be identical now that I did whatever mod was done. I honestly do not remember what mod was or if the spacer was all there was to it now. Damn it sucks to get old and forgetful.......... LOL! Either way,something is not right.

Bottom line now is how much preload should there be? I would think something along the line of wheel bearing would be much more appropriate. Why would they need/want to so tight? Am I wrong? I need to do some machine work and make some appropriate spacers to bring these hubs back to new condition. Any opinions on what sort of torque should be needed to indicate proper preload? I know new bearings would be a bit tighter than reused bearings.

Thanks for any insight.
 
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Loctite blue stick for the win.
I implemented that at work and people questioned it and when I explained the liquid “runs” then they liked it.
 
fabr said:
OK,it has come time for both hubs to be serviced . I am totally confused on what the hell the reason was for a mod to the hub and a bearing spacer. As posted above, I had to replace hub bearings (driver side)due to the hub missing the inner seal from the factory. I was told the replacement Koyo bearing would assemble slightly thinner and would need the spacer ,supplied by GA,to get preload right. Fine,I was good with that.

Now I have both hubs apart and I find that the Koyo bearings in the drivers hub and the original(whatever brand) are the same exact width as would be correct for Timken and Koyo. Since there are no markings on the original (passenger side) bearings I would have to assume they are the ones GA had made in India . Bottom line is why did I have to do a mod to the hub and use a spacer with the Koyo bearings since apparently all 3 bearings are of the same spec width? Were the China bearings wider?

I do not recall what the mod was now. Regardless, all the hub components dimensions are the same side to side and the bearing widths are the same yet I have a approx. .050" spacer on one side. Something is not right. I either have one side with way too much preload or one side too loose. When new both hubs took about a 4 foot bar to be able to turn them with a lot of effort. In all honesty that seemed way the hell too much but was told they would loosen up. Well they did apparently as the passenger (no spacer behind the bearing)side bearing has worn a groove maybe .025 deep in the hub. That side did develop a barely noticeable bit of camber.

I am a bit mystified how the hubs can be identical now that I did whatever mod was done. I honestly do not remember what mod was or if the spacer was all there was to it now. Damn it sucks to get old and forgetful.......... LOL! Either way,something is not right.

Bottom line now is how much preload should there be? I would think something along the line of wheel bearing would be much more appropriate. Why would they need/want to so tight? Am I wrong? I need to do some machine work and make some appropriate spacers to bring these hubs back to new condition. Any opinions on what sort of torque should be needed to indicate proper preload? I know new bearings would be a bit tighter than reused bearings.

Thanks for any insight.
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I’m not sure I’m following you.. you modified a hub but can’t remember why or what the mod was?

RD
 
I did as I was instructed by GA. Nothing confusing about that. The fact is that GA sold me hubs with one side missing the inner seal and massive,IMO,bearing preload in both hubs. Bearings were wiped out ,of course in one trip due to missing seal. GA sold me replacement bearings at a small discount and a seal at full price. To use replacement bearings I did as instructed to use them. NOW,I have both hubs apart and they are identical in all dimensions(after the mod to the one). GA had me use the spacer for the koyo bearings for some reason. All I can assume is that the hub I modded,as instructed,was machined differently for whatever bearing was used originally.The mod made the hubs now match each other. The question is do midboards need/want massive preload of the bearings . Massive ,as in,needs a 4 foot cheater and a LOT of torque to turn? I would not think so but was told by GA that was the case. I need to know so I can set these things up appropriately. For those that actually service hubs with new and used bearings,just how much?
 
Is there any reason to replace your cv bolts every couple of seasons? How many seasons do you typically use them for? I have two seasons on mine and seeing how cheap they are was thinking to just replace them.
 
Reality check on this bolt torque subject. The correct answer is the correct torque is the torque that gives the fastener the correct stretch for the alloy and heat treat the bolt is made to. This is not rocket science. The torque is dependent on whether dry /lightly oiled/something like ARP lube/or loctite(new and out of date are vastly different BTW) to achieve said stretch. Yes,it does make a difference,a HUGE difference what lube is used to achieve stretch spec. Soooo,all these one size fits all specs thrown around without a clue as to the bolts specs are just BS at best.

Too little torque as is suggested with specs like 100 then back off to 65 (I don't care what the mfg says.)are just as reckless as there is almost zero stretch in a 1/2 inch bolt @65 unless it is a no grade cheapo bolt that damn sure does not belong in a cv. Attempting to set bearing preload like this is just foolishness. While we are at it,it is obvious that many offroad parts manufacturers haven't a clue how to actually engineer something. It's just plain disgusting. Just because someone can CAD it up and buy a couple cnc's does not mean the parts produced are actually worth a shit.

Oh well , rant over. Flame away if you must.
 
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