CV bolts

Bobalos

Bobalos

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I'm looking for the TQ and loc-tite suggestion on CV bolts.  I put down what I have in my notes but am unsure. 

930 midboards, 3/8-24: 90 Lbs / Blue LocTite

930 stub axle, 3/8-24: 45 Lbs / Blue LocTite

930 trans flange, 3/8-24: 45 Lbs / Blue LocTite

934 midboards, 1/2-20: 90 Lbs / Blue LocTite

934 Trans flange, 7/16-20:  70 Lbs / Blue LocTite

934 Trans flange, 1/2-20 : 110 Lbs / Blue LocTite

EDIT for LRS:

  Bolts going into Aluminum = Blue LocTite,

  Bolts going into Steel = Red LocTite

 
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That 90 ft-lbs number on a 3/8" bolt has broken bolt written all over it.  I have 934's with 1/2" bolts and use what John at Outfront recommended to me which is 100 ft-lbs and no loctite.  Others will have other opinions.  It has worked for me with no bolts ever coming loose and no broken bolts.

 
55-60lb for the 930 bolts with 12 point heads. Have always done this, and I haven't replaced a cv on my car since 06. knock on wood.

 
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I've done 45 ft lbs with red Locktite on my 930s for 11 years, never a broken or loose bolt.  Torquing with Locktite might increase that torque spec over dry, like you guys, I do what's worked.

 
On the 934 Mids the bolt is 1/2'' .500  on the tatum they want 100lbs to seat the bearing and back it off to 65lbs if it has the china bearings,  with the Timken's it i keep it at 100lbs, 

on the Flange side 1/2 .500 bolt is 110lbs 

on the Flange side 7/16 bolts are 70lbs 

Torque-Tension Reference Guide.pdf (fastenal.com)

 
Speaking of CV Bolts  -  does anyone know where you can buy 934 12 point or Allen already drilled for safety wire?  I always do 930's like that  - but I have not found any 934's and its a PIA to drill the allen heads - I prefer 12pts but I can't drill them

Kartek used to have them in 12 pt with the nice shoulder as well for $17 a bolt but they stopped selling them

 
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Fullthrottleguy said:
Speaking of CV Bolts  -  does anyone know where you can buy 934 12 point or Allen already drilled for safety wire?  I always do 930's like that  - but I have not found any 934's and its a PIA to drill the allen heads - I prefer 12pts but I can't drill them

Kartek used to have them in 12 pt with the nice shoulder as well for $17 a bolt but they stopped selling them
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RPI has them.  Reid Products Inc up in Apple Valley. @9rocky 

 
Flattman said:
I've done 45 ft lbs with red Locktite on my 930s for 11 years, never a broken or loose bolt.  Torquing with Locktite might increase that torque spec over dry, like you guys, I do what's worked.
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Only concern I’d have with red loctite is field repairs: no easy blowtorching to soften for removal, and you’d want brake cleaner with you for ease of reassembly.

 
I use locktite and clutch kicking all the time with the 468ci they are loose some

times 

on the mid board now I have a ring that goes on first like a a washer and the bolts are tack welded to them.  
 

but I also have broke a 2” hollow and a front bulkhead on a DD prerunner chassis.  
 

I have a mid board come loose at over 100mph and locked up a wheel lucky the car did not flip over. 
 

for me, I use locktite red on everything 

 
Rockwood said:
Only concern I’d have with red loctite is field repairs: no easy blowtorching to soften for removal, and you’d want brake cleaner with you for ease of reassembly.
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I do exactly what Rockwood suggested, although I have always Safety Wired all the 930CV bolts as well. I use the Locktite blue Sticks because I have seen too many people get Locktite that drips down between the CV and trans flange - then good luck getting the CV off without enough heat to scare me about damaging the trans seal.

You do need to clean the threads and CV body and flanges perfectly. I use acetone and long cotton swabs from McMaster Carr

I have run close to 900HP through the 930's this way and never had one come loose, but I also service CV's 2x a season - some say thats overkill

I have serviced a few cars that were using star washers on the CV bolts and No locktite - owners swore it worked perfectly.  One of the cars had the same CV's with same grease - he would just squirt more year  - for over 5 seasons and none of the bolts were loose

 
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L.R.S. said:
This is for a 930 midboard which is why the torque is higher.  This is also setting the lash on the hub bearings, unlike a microstub where the CV bolt only holds the CV to the flange.
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I understand getting the preload set on the bearings but figured that's what the CV body is for.  Once everything is sandwiched on that, it's set.  Torque on a 3/8" bolt should be the same no matter what, no?  And that would be 50ish lbs.

 
I was after the 934 CenterBoard drawing from Parker & asked about the TQ on the hubs on my 930 CB hubs & this was his reply:

from @parker@gearone

Yes 90 Ft lbs is correct (for 930 CenterBoard hubs). 934 cv bolt torque is also 90ft lbs (for Centerboard hubs)

Also just saw that cv bolt thread, the 90 ft lbs is critical for the the preload on the bearings you dont want to be to tight or to loose.
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CHIZZLE said:
I understand getting the preload set on the bearings but figured that's what the CV body is for.  Once everything is sandwiched on that, it's set.  Torque on a 3/8" bolt should be the same no matter what, no?  And that would be 50ish lbs.
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I torque hubs to the manufacturer's spec. The list @Bobalos posted is pretty accurate to what I do. But I use Red loctite for any bolt going into steel and Blue for any bolt going into aluminum.

 
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