converting from bus box to 2d, looking for mounting advice

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codyg623

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is there anything I should be aware of installing my new 2d? I can weld and fabricate but I don't want to mount it to far forward or backwards or to high. is there a sweet spot for the angle for the cvs I should to keep them at?

I should have paid attention to my angles before taking it all apart
 

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2d is a bit longer and taller, if in the identical spot as the 091 the CV cups will be higher and narrower than the 091. you'll need a different axle length. There is no real sweet spot, have to make it fit the chassis ideally as low as you can, axles either straight 90deg or slight back sweep (trans side forward of trailing arm) To maintain the same amount of travel some require new lower chassis tubes if you don't want the trans below the frame. Also I've never done one that didn't change the engine location, so will have to fab new motor mounts as well. We have done quite a few of these upgrades!
 
ok that's good information to know. I'm also putting a new turbo motor in at the same time so I have to do all new mounts.

Lucky for me it's a sand limo so I have way more room in the engine cage then I will ever need with a j35 back there.
 
good deal, extra room helps! sometimes these mounts from Kartek slip right in, saves a bunch of fab time

Mendeola 2D Bell Housing Mount Under Mount - Kartek Off-Road

Mendeola 2D Bell Housing Mount Under Mount for offroad racing in the King of the Hammers, New Zealand Taupo 1000, Dakar Rally, Tatts Finke Desert Race, Score International Baja 500 or Baja 1000, NORRA 500, NORRA Mexican 1000, Mint 400, Vegas to Reno, Silk Way Rally, Crandon International, East...
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Mendeola 2D Mid Mount Under Mount - Kartek Off-Road

Mendeola 2D Mid Mount Under Mount for offroad racing in the King of the Hammers, New Zealand Taupo 1000, Dakar Rally, Tatts Finke Desert Race, Score International Baja 500 or Baja 1000, NORRA 500, NORRA Mexican 1000, Mint 400, Vegas to Reno, Silk Way Rally, Crandon International, East African...
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I was looking at those the other day.i was going to buy them for 30 dollars you can't beat the time saved trying to lay it out on a piece of cardboard
 
As low as you can get it, and as close to in line (zero backwards sweep) for the cups at full droop. Make sure to check where the engine ends up before you burn everything in. Best is with a little bit of upward angle so the engine has plenty of oil pan clearance.
 
Rockwood said:
As low as you can get it, and as close to in line (zero backwards sweep) for the cups at full droop. Make sure to check where the engine ends up before you burn everything in. Best is with a little bit of upward angle so the engine has plenty of oil pan clearance.
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just wanted to clarify what do you mean by zero backwards sweep?
 
codyg623 said:
just wanted to clarify what do you mean by zero backwards sweep?
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Viewed from above, the axles should make a straight line perpendicular to both cups. This will allow for maximum droop without the need to calculate combined angles.

Cycle the suspension afterwards to make sure it makes sense with your shock package. If you can't get more droop because the shocks are too short (your shocks aren't long enough to get 23*), you can slide the drivetrain forwards for more favorable angle while at ride height. Some angle will increase wear, but shouldn't be significant.

Have any pictures of the rear suspension/cage/shock setup?
 
BTW, keep ground clearance in mind. If it's below the cage, you're gonna just trade bump travel for droop travel and expose the trans to damage.
 
When I converted my sand car to a 2d from an Megasand I had the same issue regarding axle length. The 2d was just under 2 inches narrower so I’m thinking new longer axles. But instead I went with some Empi cv grease rings. They are just shy of a half inch wide each so it worked out great and plus I now have fittings to add cv grease. Two seasons and no issues.
6C32CEFC-F009-4B87-B033-C7D2477BAD52.png
 
Rockwood said:
Viewed from above, the axles should make a straight line perpendicular to both cups. This will allow for maximum droop without the need to calculate combined angles.

Cycle the suspension afterwards to make sure it makes sense with your shock package. If you can't get more droop because the shocks are too short (your shocks aren't long enough to get 23*), you can slide the drivetrain forwards for more favorable angle while at ride height. Some angle will increase wear, but shouldn't be significant.

Have any pictures of the rear suspension/cage/shock setup?
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ok that makes a lot of sense. I definitely glad I asked. a lot of good information.

are those pictures what you are looking for?
 

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codyg623 said:
ok that makes a lot of sense. I definitely glad I asked. a lot of good information.

are those pictures what you are looking for?
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Yep.

If it were me, I'd jack it up and remove the limit strap so the shocks are fully drooped, plant the trans as low as possible with zero backsweep and measure angle. If angle is lower than 20*, you can afford to move the axle forward a little. If it's right at 23*, it's good there.

If the shifter or engine won't work, then you have decisions to make. It's a gigantic tradeoff. One advantage generally screws up something.
 
Are you in AZ or California?

I have a mock 2D case and bell housing you could borrow. Haven't installed a 2D in a while, everyone wants S4 now.

E2
 
im in az, what about you?

that would work perfectly because I've been waiting for my brand new 2d to get build for like 3 months now
 
if you don't mind me borrowing it for a week or two that'd be fantastic. I'm in Glendale by the Cardinal stadium so I'm not that far from you
 
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