Caterpillar filter and AFE deep sump oil pan install

[L.R.S.]

Been a few since I've done a tech thread.

One of the simplest upgrades to do to any Duramax is the caterpillar engine oil filter.  It's $20 for the adapter and they even have them on Amazon.  Not only are the filters a lower micron then the factory GM filters they are alo half the cost.  I buy in bulk, usualy 6 at a time, for around $20 shipped.  When I did my 2006 LLY the filter adapter was just a double threaded nipple and I had to use a plumbers nipple tool for removal of the factory piece and install the new one.  Seems like GM got smart and made the factory nipple on my 2014 LML a socket end for easy removal.  The new adapter is installed with a 1/2" drive extention.  It's a 5 minute upgrade if you do your own oil changes.



I also added the Caterpillar fuel filter adapter to my 06 LLY, my son's 06 LBZ and now my 14 LML.   They have all been flawless but I know of one person that did have noting but problems and went back to stock after loosing prime for months.  When I did my 06 LLY the adapter was around $150 but now you can get them on Amazon for $40.  Read some bad reviews but the two I've installed have been good so far.



Stock GM 10 micron fuel filter is around $35 to $45.  The Caterpillar filter is 2 micron and I get them in bulk for $19 each, shipped.



This pic is from my 06 LBZ.  THe 1R- 0749 filter is too big for my mostly stock 2014 LML.  I have to run the shorter Caterpillar 1R- 0750.

Next upgrade was the engine oil pan.  I had 445k miles on my 06 LLY and never touched the engine oil pan.  I always wanted to upgrade becuase I saw on Truck U or one of those shows that a factory GM Duramx oil pan hold almost a full qaurt of oil that cannot be drained.  A buddy called me and said he had a brand new in the box AFE Duramx engine oil pan for $300.  These retail for $450 so I bought it.  Should have done a little research...



I did my usual YouTube University research and the swap looked really straight forward.  The factory pan came off fairly easily.



This is exactly how much engine oil cannot be drained from a factory oil pan. 



I swapped over the oil level sensor from the factory pan.  A couple features of the AFE pan is the drain plug is magnetic (like we are used to on our transaxles) and is on the bottom of the pan so it gets every drop of oil out.  There is also a 1/2 threaded hole that can be used for oil temp sender, and the kit comes with a plug if it isn't needed.



High temp RTV and ready to install.

 

[L.R.S.]

Forgot to mention I had to remove the cross member under the engine to remove the oil pan.  No big deal, four 18mm bolts and a pry bar.

The new AFE pan would not go on smoothly.  I fought it for a while, oil dripping, RTV everywhere.  It sucked.  Then I noticed the pan was going to hit the cross member mount on the frame.  WTF?  I checked the part number and I had the correct pan, but it would not fit.  Eff that, time to trim the frame a little.  I didn't get any pics of this process but I ended up taking 1/4" off the edge of the mount.  By now the RTV had already set up so I scrapped it all off and started over.  I still had to fight the pan a little to clear the bell housing but I got it on.  Then I noticed that two of the oil pan bolts were studs and too short for the thick AFE pan.  Eff me.  Pull the pan back off, run the the hardware store for two 6mmx1.0 pitch nuts to remove the studs.  

I finally got the oil pan in place and bolted up.  Winning, for a minute.

I put the cross member back on and the effing thing was hitting the oil pan.  Mother Father!  Eff this effing AFE pan.  But it was installed so I considered my options.  Notch the stupid cross member!



Took an hour to get the cross member cleaned up.  It was caked with road debis and the factory coating.





People notch frames all the time so why not a cross member?



I had a sheet of 1/4" plate and made a filler piece.



I can weld but I'm not a welder.  I hit up a good buddy that lives close and he said he was in his shop welding and bring it over (this was on Sunday afternoon).  He's a really good welder and has done sevral projects for me including CAD design stuff.



Told you he was good.  So good, in fact, the videos and pics I posted on IG got him several job offers form other friends that own welding shops.



I cleaned it up and hit it with a can of black Steel It stainless paint.



So that upgrade is done.  I now hold a little over 3 gallons of engine oil with the deep sump AFE pan and the larger Caterpillar engine oil filter.

 

[L.R.S.]

I jumped back on the AFE website to check again how I ended up with a pan that didn't fit my truck.  The part number for 11-16 Duramax was the same.  The fine print was different.



And then I saw it- Minimum +6" lift required for this part number.  They have an less deeper pan for stock height trucks, which is the one I needed.  Whatever, it's on there and working.  And I got it BNIB for $300, much better then $527 retail.

 

[ROBERT L]

Nice upgrade. The motor won’t vibrate and wear on the crossmember? I’m just curious it looks pretty close. 

 

[Crusty]

Great Tech thread, thanks for posting :thumb:

 

[J Alper]

Good Job,  cross member looks strong,  

 

[parker@gearone]

Nice, I really enjoy these tech threads, keep it up.

 

[L.R.S.]

Nice upgrade. The motor won’t vibrate and wear on the crossmember? I’m just curious it looks pretty close. 

It's hard to see how much clearance it has in the picture but it should be good. I'll keep an eye on it and make sure it isn't rubbing.

 

[1slomofo]

Ive been meaning to do this CAT filter upgrade for a while on my LMM... thats a pretty good price on the adaptor. 

 

[Realbadlarry]

Isn't this a lot of work if you got 445k out of a stock pan? 

 

[L.R.S.]

Isn't this a lot of work if you got 445k out of a stock pan? 

I do things like this because I can. 

 

[L.R.S.]

Ive been meaning to do this CAT filter upgrade for a while on my LMM... thats a pretty good price on the adaptor. 

$135 shipped for 6 makes rhem $22.50 each.