Buss Trans with a 2.5 Turbo Subaru?

wesinls

wesinls

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Weddle internals, was told portion of case was bored out to accept improved bearings, recently rebuilt, etc.  - and engine around 300HP on 50/50 gas mix-  in a 1300 LB 2 seat car.

Would the buss trans keep you from buying the car? 

 
 I ran a bus box with a Subie 2.2 turbo (around 300hp) in a Funco gen 3 with zero issues.  This car is heavier for sure than what you are looking at.

 
Not me, all pends on price.

Have the same set-up but mines a 2.0 @ 300hp in a 1800lb 4 seat.

Trans has been great, I dont beat on it, dump clutch etc..  Geared it to be a 3rd gear car.

 
<Knocking on wood>

I generally get 7 seasons out of a 300hp Nissan SR20DET in with a similar weight buggy and trans build.  I don't floor it in the whoops (though I will part-throttle 4th and float through them), I never downshift without rev-matching, I keep my tires aired up around 12-14psi, and I generally treat it like it is: overstressed. Turbo helps/hurts.  No sudden torque loading like NA, but you also have to predict when the power comes on to make sure you're not going to mis-time something.

That being said, it's not pussy-footed around.  My rear tires have probably traveled 2x as far as my fronts, logged significant airtime, and the boost gauge regularly sees double digits on any given run.



 
Last edited by a moderator:
3 hours ago, Rockwood said:

<Knocking on wood>

I generally get 7 seasons out of a 300hp Nissan SR20DET in with a similar weight buggy and trans build.  I don't floor it in the whoops (though I will part-throttle 4th and float through them), I never downshift without rev-matching, I keep my tires aired up around 12-14psi, and I generally treat it like it is: overstressed. Turbo helps/hurts.  No sudden torque loading like NA, but you also have to predict when the power comes on to make sure you're not going to mis-time something.

That being said, it's not pussy-footed around.  My rear tires have probably traveled 2x as far as my fronts, logged significant airtime, and the boost gauge regularly sees double digits on any given run.

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sounds killer!!

 
Heck if you want you can make anything live and still have fun. I did an Autocraft built type 1 behind my 3.5a4 for 2 seasons and never broke it.

IMG_1260.JPG

 
I had a 300hp 2.0 turbo mated to a all weddle 091 and beat that thing and it didnt break. Dont clutch dump or jump and land with foot on gas. Even tho you may already know this, treat your reverse on that trans like a baby. its small and weak

 
I run  the 091 with all weddle internals behind a 300ish horse J35A4 Honda V6. Only issue has been the ring and pinion (Weddle), however full disclosure, the first one was setup im-properly by the first builder-  the "Bus guy" in Phoenix. New/next Builder replaced ring and pinion with used German OE unit, as weddle was out of stock. That used set lasted 2 seasons before losing teeth, He did acknowledge up front that those used units are a gamble. Now on a Weddle gear set (for last 2 years), as they were back in-stock again then. Have faith in the builder and the  new gear set. That being said, it's small (ring and pinion) so treat it nicely as others have stated (whoops, jumping, clutch dumping, etc.) and I believe these are decent units at this power level. If nothing more, less drag from the 091 ring and pinion leads to more power??? Just be nice to it, everything lasts longer right?

 
My son has a 2003 Tatum Sand Demon with a turbo Subie and 091. Car originally a Mazda rotary but was swapped out by the previous owner. Only have this season in the car but so far so good.

 
Some great info in this thread, drive “smart” and the trans should give plenty of seat time. The rails I had with a Bus Box I treated like they didn’t have reverse.

 
I guess I'll go against the flow on this. I have an 091 behind my 2.5 Subie in my Manx, probably 2200 lbs. I usually have the boost set to be at 275 crank HP and I get about 3-4 years out of a fresh trans, if I don't hard break something. I use Transworks and last rebuild was ~ $3.5K, Weddle R&P, 1-2, and a bunch of other stuff was all worn out. Mine has all Weddle and the 2D bearing, everything Transworks can do is in there. 

That trans is the one thing preventing me from letting the car sing. Every time I go through whoops, I'm thinking about my glass R&P. Not to mention parts and good cases are becoming more expensive and hard to get. There really is no good, reasonable priced option for a 300HP car these days. 2D's have a junk reverse and are $10K, and if you go to a HV24 Weddle will bend you over for $15K. 

 
Turbo_Manx_Maniac said:
I guess I'll go against the flow on this. I have an 091 behind my 2.5 Subie in my Manx, probably 2200 lbs. I usually have the boost set to be at 275 crank HP and I get about 3-4 years out of a fresh trans, if I don't hard break something. I use Transworks and last rebuild was ~ $3.5K, Weddle R&P, 1-2, and a bunch of other stuff was all worn out. Mine has all Weddle and the 2D bearing, everything Transworks can do is in there. 

That trans is the one thing preventing me from letting the car sing. Every time I go through whoops, I'm thinking about my glass R&P. Not to mention parts and good cases are becoming more expensive and hard to get. There really is no good, reasonable priced option for a 300HP car these days. 2D's have a junk reverse and are $10K, and if you go to a HV24 Weddle will bend you over for $15K. 
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Weight and tire size is super important.  I would stay under 2000lbs for sure with the tranny.

 
Turbo_Manx_Maniac said:
I guess I'll go against the flow on this. I have an 091 behind my 2.5 Subie in my Manx, probably 2200 lbs. I usually have the boost set to be at 275 crank HP and I get about 3-4 years out of a fresh trans, if I don't hard break something. I use Transworks and last rebuild was ~ $3.5K, Weddle R&P, 1-2, and a bunch of other stuff was all worn out. Mine has all Weddle and the 2D bearing, everything Transworks can do is in there. 

That trans is the one thing preventing me from letting the car sing. Every time I go through whoops, I'm thinking about my glass R&P. Not to mention parts and good cases are becoming more expensive and hard to get. There really is no good, reasonable priced option for a 300HP car these days. 2D's have a junk reverse and are $10K, and if you go to a HV24 Weddle will bend you over for $15K. 
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You’ll pay the money one way or another. Either all at once or over time with rebuilds. 

 
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