Bleeding cutting brakes

JBL

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Search on this forum as well as internet has provided little info.  MC went out on CNC brake peddle and rebuilt it with parts from Kartek.  Wilwood 4 pistons in the back (no front brakes) and used vaccuum AND old fashioned way to get all air out.  I can get solid build up of pressure then when I come back to trying the brake peddle all pressure is lost.  I see no fluid leak anywhere.  So this led me to the cutting brakes.  I build pressure again on the brake peddle and try to move the cutting handle up and down and its hard also.  Release the brake peddle and the cut brakes go soft also.  So I tried cracking open the bleed port on top of CNC cutting brakes and like a dummy was looking down at it while I pushed the brake peddle.  Got a blast of grit and brake fluid right into the eye ball!  Survived that nightmare, but back to the help.  Do I pump brake fluid out of the cuting brake port till all bubble are gone, then use the cutting brake while someone is holding the brake peddle down and bleed the back?  I'd appreciate the help on how to.  (Jamar upgrade is not an option at this time)

 
The best way u have found is to use a pressure bleeder that forces fluid through the system. I put a Schrader valve in the cap and low psi then go wheel by wheel to let all the air out. 

 
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process ive always used was bleed main cyl using bleeders on calipers first, then bleed from turn masters, then bleed each wheel using turn master cylinder to push fluid.  ive had the best success using clear tubing and a gatorade bottle with a hole in the lid and the tube insterted and some clean fluid in the bottle to keep the end of th tube from sucking air. takes time but its always worked for me. 

 
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THREADOMANCY!

Just went through this and after still having a soft pedal despite burning half a gallon of brake fluid with the boy helping, I switched spots and made him deal with the bleeder. One thing I discovered that made it actually bleed the air out (instead of going back and forth forever):

Pump up the master cylinder on the brake pedal to as firm as it’ll get, then press and hold (but not all the way down), THEN lightly hold up on the turning brake lever. Once you feel the hydraulic pressure release from the bleeder, slowly push the brake pedal, and before the pedal bottoms, start slowly pulling on the turning brake.

The above seems to push the air through the turning brake, then push it far enough away from the turning brake that it doesn’t immediately go right back in.
 
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It’s a bitch to bleed the brakes with cutting brakes. I’ve had my woes.
 
I’ve always used the pressure bleeder and have some work the brakes simultaneously. Only way I can ever get my buggies bled.
 
It’s a bitch to bleed the brakes with cutting brakes. I’ve had my woes.
I was pretty close to just getting a -3AN male to male and bypassing the whole thing…

I’ve always used the pressure bleeder and have some work the brakes simultaneously. Only way I can ever get my buggies bled.
That’s my next HF purchase. Lol
 
What brand of master do you have? I have a CNC and Jamar cap that have the nipple on them to hook up a tire inflator to them. You can borrow them if needed?
 
What brand of master do you have? I have a CNC and Jamar cap that have the nipple on them to hook up a tire inflator to them. You can borrow them if needed?
CNC stuff, but will eventually need to replace it.

For the power bleeder: need something like the above for other vehicles anyway. Thanks for the offer.
 
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