parker@gearone
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I appreciate the order. Got them boxed up and waiting for ups, you should see them tomorrow or Thursday.
Big Block
- Thread starter bkuips
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Didnt know this was a thing. I am local and bring you my rack to get gone through Friday. Ill save you the shipping and pick them up in person.
parker@gearone
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EmpirE231
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- Aug 12, 2021
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question about the 934 Super CV's... I see you use GKN CV's but looks like you manufacture your own cages? what about the stars used... are they standard GKN or are the 300M, etc?
parker@gearone
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@EmpirE231
GKN stars. We prefer the GKN over 300m for multiple reasons. The biggest one being heat treatment process.
300m is an awesome material we use it for our axles.
Its 2023 and there are amazing materials readily available. and some do better than others in different applications.
The offroad industry is very weird everybody loves 4130 & 300m (both amazing materials that we work with everyday).
300m is really just a modified & refined 4340
GKN stars. We prefer the GKN over 300m for multiple reasons. The biggest one being heat treatment process.
300m is an awesome material we use it for our axles.
Its 2023 and there are amazing materials readily available. and some do better than others in different applications.
The offroad industry is very weird everybody loves 4130 & 300m (both amazing materials that we work with everyday).
300m is really just a modified & refined 4340
Last edited by a moderator:
parker@gearone
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We have tested our CV joints in a class 10 and class 6200 race car, and Gear One CVs have a longer life expectancy than our competitors.
L.R.S.
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Fullthrottleguy
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I've Built so many BBC's I stopped counting ... Mostly everything in street and race cars, and like others have said there is nothing wrong with them "mostly"
I recently finished a 632 Tall deck with best of everything parts for a 67 Camaro Pro street car - near 1000HP NA on c16 still cheaper build than my 1000HP Blown LS on e85
Since you are buying and not building, you have to live with the choices someone else made.
The general rule "There is no replacement for displacement" applies and they sound great
But in the general the rules and actions are:
Big Blocks can be built to make gobs of torque and good Horsepower at far less than an LS costs, but their are caveats
1. they are Really heavy even with Alum heads they weigh alot and the weight is even across the block so the CG is higher way higher
2. The parts are big and heavy and don't like to be swung around fast. If you keep the RPM down even a stock BBC will live forever, spin it fast and it will cost you
3. Canted valve heads are great for flow but cost ALOT TO MAKE LIVE AT RPM - the parts are just heavy and big springs wear guides like crazy (think smoke)
4. Its really hard to "cam" one for all RPM ranges - you will have a monster down low and run out of steam on top (5000 rpm) or you will have a good runner down low and a monster up top - but thet requires "baller dollars" to keep living I have turn them 9,200 RPM - but that cost cubic dollars
5. They run hot - the cooling design is really bad compared to modern engines, big heavy water filled radiator and 16" fans needed if you make any HP
6. Spend the money on the bottom end and Rect Port heads and you can add a little boost and easily get 1,000HP+ on Pump gas
7. Most people don't like the power band in a sand car - in an LS Turbos and Blowers build the TQ to get the mass moving and then HP out to keep it going, even NA's rev quick - Nothing is smoother than an LS IMO - built right and even from the factory they rev fast and smooth. . . BBC's rev slow - even drag cars need big convertors to get them past the slow rev zone - and you leave on the converter at 4500-5500 RPM and the Run to 7000 or 8000 shift happen fast with gobs of TQ but its a freight train - in the sand you want to get there quick and do it off idle. A GOOD BBC will want to flip the car over before it moves it straight down the sand.
If you ever raced a BBC on the street you know that a clapped out VW will beat it in the first 250 ft. because the BBC car is boiling the tires rather than moving - that kinda why I built them for the street.
If I was spending my $$ on a sand car and did not have an Albins or S4D and I wanted a "handler" and duner I would go LS - but different strokes .., etc.
I recently finished a 632 Tall deck with best of everything parts for a 67 Camaro Pro street car - near 1000HP NA on c16 still cheaper build than my 1000HP Blown LS on e85
Since you are buying and not building, you have to live with the choices someone else made.
The general rule "There is no replacement for displacement" applies and they sound great
But in the general the rules and actions are:
Big Blocks can be built to make gobs of torque and good Horsepower at far less than an LS costs, but their are caveats
1. they are Really heavy even with Alum heads they weigh alot and the weight is even across the block so the CG is higher way higher
2. The parts are big and heavy and don't like to be swung around fast. If you keep the RPM down even a stock BBC will live forever, spin it fast and it will cost you
3. Canted valve heads are great for flow but cost ALOT TO MAKE LIVE AT RPM - the parts are just heavy and big springs wear guides like crazy (think smoke)
4. Its really hard to "cam" one for all RPM ranges - you will have a monster down low and run out of steam on top (5000 rpm) or you will have a good runner down low and a monster up top - but thet requires "baller dollars" to keep living I have turn them 9,200 RPM - but that cost cubic dollars
5. They run hot - the cooling design is really bad compared to modern engines, big heavy water filled radiator and 16" fans needed if you make any HP
6. Spend the money on the bottom end and Rect Port heads and you can add a little boost and easily get 1,000HP+ on Pump gas
7. Most people don't like the power band in a sand car - in an LS Turbos and Blowers build the TQ to get the mass moving and then HP out to keep it going, even NA's rev quick - Nothing is smoother than an LS IMO - built right and even from the factory they rev fast and smooth. . . BBC's rev slow - even drag cars need big convertors to get them past the slow rev zone - and you leave on the converter at 4500-5500 RPM and the Run to 7000 or 8000 shift happen fast with gobs of TQ but its a freight train - in the sand you want to get there quick and do it off idle. A GOOD BBC will want to flip the car over before it moves it straight down the sand.
If you ever raced a BBC on the street you know that a clapped out VW will beat it in the first 250 ft. because the BBC car is boiling the tires rather than moving - that kinda why I built them for the street.
If I was spending my $$ on a sand car and did not have an Albins or S4D and I wanted a "handler" and duner I would go LS - but different strokes .., etc.
parker@gearone
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- May 5, 2021
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Reece Pettersen
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- May 6, 2021
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30 series are incredibly expensive and not worth it IMO. I just bought the ProAm Stage 5 HD hubs (35 spline 934) for our new class 1 car. If a 934 can take >1k miles in the desert at race pace, then they should hold up in the sand.
