Axle play at full droop

ChasingSand

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Last weekend I broke a 930 axle. Ordered and installed replacements from Kartek. Same length as original. I also installed. Jamar 33 spline rear brake kits as originals were 27 spline. Car rolls fine In garage but when I lift the car up for to full droop the axle has no play but when the car is on the ground or slightly elevated axles has 1/4 inch of play. Does this sound normal?

 
No. Perhaps the drive flanges are now further away from the tranny, or you have always had this issue and never checked it before

 
Make sure u set your limit straps correctly you want wheel spin with no bind at full droop 

 
As mentioned in both posts above- at full droop your axles should plunge (have movement). If not your axles are too short. If you have adjustable limit straps you can shorten them. Or get longer axles.

Assuming you have micro atubs hubs- remove the CVs and axles (both sides) and jack the trailing arm up so the trans flange is parallel to the hub flange (straight across). This is the closest point the CVs will be. Measure and subtract 1/2". This is your proper axle length. 

 
Going to end up adding limit straps as it’s only about 7/16 over extending. Once I compress and shock that little it rolls smooth with no binding 

 
Can you give us a little information about your car? 

2 seat 4 seat? V8? Weight? Paddle size? Was the axle that broke 300M and who made them? What were you doing when it broke?

Just curious that's all. I run Tatum 930 gear with a V8.

And no I'm not going to buy 30 spline or 934 so don't suggest it please. 

 
Can you give us a little information about your car? 

2 seat 4 seat? V8? Weight? Paddle size? Was the axle that broke 300M and who made them? What were you doing when it broke?

Just curious that's all. I run Tatum 930 gear with a V8.

And no I'm not going to buy 30 spline or 934 so don't suggest it please. 
Sure. Car is an early 2000’s SU sand pro with a J35 and 2D. Came off a sharp drop about 4-5 feet and axle snapped on impact. Not sure how old the axle was or the mfg. car has 33 blasters. 

 
Going to end up adding limit straps as it’s only about 7/16 over extending. Once I compress and shock that little it rolls smooth with no binding 
That is perfect to record that amount and next time you rebuild your shocks , tell them you want your shocks 7/16 shorter. They can add a spacer. Then it could never bind without limit straps.  Then you can install  the limit straps to be tight just before full droop. That is the best. Limit straps stretch you you have to keep monitoring them.  If you rely solely on the straps you can be doing damage and not know it

 
That is perfect to record that amount and next time you rebuild your shocks , tell them you want your shocks 7/16 shorter. They can add a spacer. Then it could never bind without limit straps.  Then you can install  the limit straps to be tight just before full droop. That is the best. Limit straps stretch you you have to keep monitoring them.  If you rely solely on the straps you can be doing damage and not know it
I think this is going to be my best plan as I don’t want to buy another $700 set of axles. Now to find some one that can do this between Monday and Tuesday and then turn them around same day for my New Years trip. 

 
I think this is going to be my best plan as I don’t want to buy another $700 set of axles. Now to find some one that can do this between Monday and Tuesday and then turn them around same day for my New Years trip. 
This would be a spacer installed inside the shock. 1/2” would clearly be an easy one to make. And probably cheap if you don’t have straps installed now. Maybe some shock guys could comment. If you had the spacer it may be a pretty straight install and a recharge

 
This would be a spacer installed inside the shock. 1/2” would clearly be an easy one to make. And probably cheap if you don’t have straps installed now. Maybe some shock guys could comment. If you had the spacer it may be a pretty straight install and a recharge
Thank you John!!

 
Sounds like possibly when you changed the micro stubs it threw off your original axle length and maybe the axle clip is riding on the star at full droop causing the bind?

 
Sounds like possibly when you changed the micro stubs it threw off your original axle length and maybe the axle clip is riding on the star at full droop causing the bind?
If that is the case it’s the only reason I would recommend using those 930 grease rings. As it would take up for like 1/2 of space. ( like a big washer sandwiched in between the flange and cv) Did I say a had a set of 4 for sale but would sell 2 for $60. Lol

they could be used until a better fix is applied 

 
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Sounds like possibly when you changed the micro stubs it threw off your original axle length and maybe the axle clip is riding on the star at full droop causing the bind?
That’s exactly what is happening. Decided to suck it up and buy new axles on a Monday from Kartek. 

 
That’s exactly what is happening. Decided to suck it up and buy new axles on a Monday from Kartek. 
Now make sure they are not too long either. Dry fit and cycle through the horizontal plane and confirm you still have axle movement

 
SU cars are supposed to have the cut stars. You can always call Ed to get more info. Limiting the shock internally is also a good idea too. Assuming you have Fox socks, most SU are set up for fox. Switching to king changes over all length and compressed length and can screw up a lot of things. 

 
Well the dilemma continues. I removed the coilover and shock and was able to get the axle at 0 degrees. I then removed the CV/Axle assembly. Measurement is around 25 1/2 inches. I cut a piece  of PVC pipe at the 25 1/2 inch mark and it fits tight. How much free play should I have when the axle is level?

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