Any Ford techs in here ?

Rockwood said:
V10 is the same.

But, as @Rorschach says: you don't have to do it that way.  I think The Book just pays it out that way.
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How do you work around the cross member? It is welded in :lol:  I know I need the bed plate seal in the 6.0 too... that's a complete reseal job to the tune of $7K. NOpe, as long as it leaks it has oil right? :dunno:  

 
Orange_R said:
How do you work around the cross member? It is welded in :lol:  I know I need the bed plate seal in the 6.0 too... that's a complete reseal job to the tune of $7K. NOpe, as long as it leaks it has oil right? :dunno:  
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You undo the motor mounts, remove the intake manifold, and lift the engine.  Still sucks out loud, just not as bad as stated.  Book wanted something stupid like a week of time to replace the oil pan.  I did it in my driveway in 4-5 hours.  Wasn't terrible, but definitely more likely to smoosh a hand (since all that was holding the motor up was pressurized magic juice), which is probably why the book doesn't specify lifting the motor.

 
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BTW, that was on a V10.  I assume for the 6.0 you'll need to remove turbos and other chit to lift the motor sufficiently.   :dunno:

 
I don't think I had to touch anything up top when lifting the motor. It doesn't have to go up very far. I don't remember all the details as it was 4 or 5 years ago and I haven't done another since but the truck is still leak free today. I do know that there's a lot more room than on a 6.0 or 6.4. those are the Navistar engines that Ford was using trying to meet emissions standards with and what led up to Ford dropping Navistar and designing their own engine. Also was a cab and chassis but I don't think there's any difference where the cross member is concerned.

 
Rorschach said:
None of this sounds right to me. I did an upper oil pan gasket for a customer that has a fleet of these 6.7s on a 2017. It was a pretty easy job even without a lift. Pulled the transmission and tcase together and just scooted them back a ways, lifted the engine a little and pan out- pan in. Took a little over half a day. I charged him $800 labor.

It was even under warranty and could have been completely free at Ford but he didn't want the truck tied up for too long so he opted to just pay me to do it.

At the time I had zero experience working on a Ford 6.7 other than having deleted my own and doing oil changes. I thought it was a really easy job as far as pulling the transmission and such. 

I did a gas engine replacement for another customer on a 2014 that got sky high quotes from other places talking about cab removal and things like that. It took a little over 2 days with swapping everything over from old engine to new but was still a really easy job. No cab removal. I quoted them 40 hours. It ended up being 19.
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You open to doing another one  ?

 
I had a couple injuries in recent years that led me away from mechanic work so I haven't really done much of it lately. I've spent all of my adult life working on construction and large earth moving equipment and it's taken it's toll on my back and my joints. I still work on my own stuff but at my own pace. That combined with the inability to find any decent help prevents me from taking on that kind of work anymore. Plus trucking now takes up more of my time than wrenching ever did. I just chimed in because there's got to be others out there doing things the way I did. I made a good living as a mechanic but I only ever charged the time it took to do a job. I hardly ever did the same job more than once so I usually didn't know exactly how long a particular job would take and didn't know what the flat rates were. I'd estimate if I could but I just charged an hourly rate and gave my customers their money's worth. I had a good clientele and luckily never got screwed over. I wish I could still do it because lately it seems you can pretty much name your price but those days are behind me now.

 
Update time. Found a shop near my work that said they would work on it. Replaced the rear main seal and put it back together. Bad news as it's still leaking. Is it possible to be leaking from a freeze plug in the bell housing ?  That is what the guy thinks is wrong. I mentioned to him this topic and the possible upper / lower pan gasket. He said the leak appears to be above the rear main seal and leaking down. I don't know where the upper pan gasket is in relation to the bell housing and rear main seal. Anybody have any ideas.

 
I have no doubt that it's the upper pan gasket. 6.7 fords are notorious for leaking there. The time to do it would have been when the transmission was out. Like I mentioned before, do both while you're there since they both require removal of the transmission 

 
Hondajimz said:
Update time. Found a shop near my work that said they would work on it. Replaced the rear main seal and put it back together. Bad news as it's still leaking. Is it possible to be leaking from a freeze plug in the bell housing ?  That is what the guy thinks is wrong. I mentioned to him this topic and the possible upper / lower pan gasket. He said the leak appears to be above the rear main seal and leaking down. I don't know where the upper pan gasket is in relation to the bell housing and rear main seal. Anybody have any ideas.
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upper pan gasket is where you would thing the regular oil pan gasket is. There's a gasket, then a baffle then another gasket then the pan. They're all kinda mashed together. Ford may have claimed to design it differently, but they used a lot of the same flawed designs as the Intl/Navistar motors had. If it looks like it's coming from above, I'd check the intake valley like someone said previously. Could be anything at this point... mine leaked from up top and it ended up being a worn oring on the turbo pedestal 

 
basketcase said:
Does it leak more when towing? That is usually when it's noticeable.  My BIL thought his went bad only to find out that it was something up in the valley. I'd look to see if you have oil in the valley. Then you might be lucky. 

On a side note. The new 10 speeds are nice....
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Can you possibly ask him what was wrong on his. I think mine might be similar. 

 
Hondajimz said:
Can you possibly ask him what was wrong on his. I think mine might be similar. 
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Sorry to hear your still chasing the oil leak.

It was leaking from the turbo oil feed line fitting into the valley,  which drains out the back and down the block.  

I think there are a couple locations from where oil can leak into the valley, so that can be a little more troublesome to find exactly. 

Good luck.

Jonathan 

 
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