Alumicraft getting a new computer mid season

wesinls said:
Second season with my Holley harness and terminator X.  No issues yet...I rubber mounted the Terminator and it's in a somewhat secluded spot.  I'd like to someday build a new harness myself using Holley's below harness and connecter set - so i can run wires how I want, route the way I want, etc. Being a mid-engine makes my setup a bit different too - as my intake is flipped...Not an easy job, but I like the challenge...  Finding high quality shrink wrap has been a challenge...haven't found a good source yet, but also haven't looked too hard. If anyone has recommendations that would be great.

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Raychem:

https://racespeconline.com/products/scl-heat-shrink?variant=23009273921

 
I LOVE my Holley setup.  I was an early adapter before all the cool kids figured it out.  I think 2017 and ended up selling my MEFI and harness on RD for $1000 and at that time the HP was the only thing they had.  Paid $1700 and still using it to this day.  Everyone in camp has a Holley now so it's easy to plug in a laptop and make cold start adjustments, enable learn after a new intake, throttle body, cam, etc.  It's nice because you can visually check each sensors readouts and determine if they are in range.  I had a Map sensor fail and once I got back to camp and plugged in the laptop it was easy to see its readings were WAY off of normal so easy to troubleshoot.  

Make sure you get the MSD Solid State high amp relay to use with your fuel pump and 2 fans.  Its a game changer and super clean install.

My next upgrade is to switch from my small dash to the large screen since that wasn't around when I did my setup.

https://www.holley.com/products/electrical/wiring_and_relays/parts/7564

 
wesinls said:
Finding high quality shrink wrap has been a challenge...haven't found a good source yet, but also haven't looked too hard. If anyone has recommendations that would be great.
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Prowire and Racespec are what I use. Prowire is in Az and will get to the southwest US within a few days. Racespec is in NY and will take about a week +. Raychem DR-25 is the standard used for looming and Raychem SCL is good for splices, ring terminals, covering loom branches etc. DR-25 shrinks 2:1 and SCL shrinks 3:1. Raychem also makes a product called ATUM which shrinks 4:1 and is typically used for booting connectors but can also be used for covering loom branches. The ATUM has a clear hot glue like adhesive while SCL has a black epoxy lining.

 
r3meyer said:
I LOVE my Holley setup.  I was an early adapter before all the cool kids figured it out.  I think 2017 and ended up selling my MEFI and harness on RD for $1000 and at that time the HP was the only thing they had.  Paid $1700 and still using it to this day.  Everyone in camp has a Holley now so it's easy to plug in a laptop and make cold start adjustments, enable learn after a new intake, throttle body, cam, etc.  It's nice because you can visually check each sensors readouts and determine if they are in range.  I had a Map sensor fail and once I got back to camp and plugged in the laptop it was easy to see its readings were WAY off of normal so easy to troubleshoot.  

Make sure you get the MSD Solid State high amp relay to use with your fuel pump and 2 fans.  Its a game changer and super clean install.

My next upgrade is to switch from my small dash to the large screen since that wasn't around when I did my setup.

https://www.holley.com/products/electrical/wiring_and_relays/parts/7564
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The other option is to ditch the relays altogether and gut the brushless fan from a newer car and run it straight from the Holley.  A brushless fan will flow 3000+CFM at something stupid low like 15A continuous, with no spikes on the rest of the electrical system.  

 
A car in our group had similar issues your describing. It started as a issue that would show up here and there and then became more common as time went on until we got stuck out in the big dunes and called in for the snow cat. We were told 4-5 hours for a tow. Im and old 12v audio visual guy and have built my own harness's multiple times so while we waited for the snow cat we pulled the seat where the relay and fuses are for the Mefi system and started poking around with my test light and volt meter. Power going into the relays and fuses checked out. So started to move down the line and as I went down BOOM lost voltage in a wire that powers the fuel pump. Yes we tested power at the pump multiple times before this and it checked out (not this exact time but before). The wire looked fine from the outside, not melted or anything of the sort. I keep some extra wire in my car so I clipped it out patched in a temp and off we went. This gremlin was floating around for awhile. The owner changed multiple things before this was found thinking it was resolved (because it ran fine at home) then days later it would appear. Not saying this is your problem but might be something to look at. The use of a power probe with a toner could help but only if the problem presents it's self. 

 
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Dynamicdude said:
A car in group had similar issues your describing. It started as a issue that would show up here and there and then became more common as time went on until we got stuck out in the big dunes and called in for the snow cat. We were told 4-5 hours for a tow. Im and old 12v audio visual guy and have built my own harness's multiple times so while we waited for the snow cat we pulled the seat where the relay and fuses are for the Mefi system and started poking around with my test light and volt meter. Power going into the relays and fuses checked out. So started to move down the line and as I went down BOOM lost voltage in a wire that powers the fuel pump. Yes we tested power at the pump multiple times before this and it checked out (not this exact time but before). The wire looked fine from the outside, not melted or anything of the sort. I keep some extra wire in my car so I clipped it out patched in a temp and off we went. This gremlin was floating around for awhile. The owner changed multiple things before this was found thinking it was resolved (because it ran fine at home) then days later it would appear. Not saying this is your problem but might be something to look at. The use of a power probe with a toner could help but only if the problem presents it's self. 
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That's cool you guys got it worked out.

I took the voltmeter to check just about everything including voltage and continuity and nothing reared it's head. Unfortunately that's extremely to do when driving the car of course. And the car idles just fine. So while everything works just fine at idle, I can't get a voltmeter on the pump or harness while driving.

 
acefuture said:
That's cool you guys got it worked out.

I took the voltmeter to check just about everything including voltage and continuity and nothing reared it's head. Unfortunately that's extremely to do when driving the car of course. And the car idles just fine. So while everything works just fine at idle, I can't get a voltmeter on the pump or harness while driving.
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Yep hard to test when your driving, maybe if you truly think its voltage issue run a temp digital volt meter to the pump directly and once the issue starts happening look at the temp gauge to see if anything irregular is happening? 

 
I had a battery cable crap out on me this past week. When I took my meter to it I had continuity so I thought it was fine. I’d get voltage at one end but not at the other. Measured resistance and I had like 80ohms when it should read .2ohms. Not saying that’s your issue but from now on when I test wires for continuity I will use ohms instead of the beep. 

 
Jtmoney714 said:
I had a battery cable crap out on me this past week. When I took my meter to it I had continuity so I thought it was fine. I’d get voltage at one end but not at the other. Measured resistance and I had like 80ohms when it should read .2ohms. Not saying that’s your issue but from now on when I test wires for continuity I will use ohms instead of the beep. 
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Yea good call. I replaced all lead and ground wires with brand new tined marine grade wires and connectors as well added another chassis ground. Didn't change anything, but peace of mind that's not it

 
Jtmoney714 said:
I had a battery cable crap out on me this past week. When I took my meter to it I had continuity so I thought it was fine. I’d get voltage at one end but not at the other. Measured resistance and I had like 80ohms when it should read .2ohms. Not saying that’s your issue but from now on when I test wires for continuity I will use ohms instead of the beep. 
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Ideally you would want to do a volt drop between the cable ends under load to test a cable like this.  

 
Also very common the ground wire burns out of the board,  if you grind the case and ground the case out with a wire o the bolt lug, it seems to fix some issues,   

 
Reece Pettersen said:
Stay away from switch pros. They are being torn out of x2 race cars I know of because they are causing DNFs. I sold a 1600 car with a switch pros... didn't have issues when I owned it, new owner was fighting issues, rewired the entire car only to find out the switch pros had an issue in the sealed box. 
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i agree

 
wesinls said:
Second season with my Holley harness and terminator X.  No issues yet...I rubber mounted the Terminator and it's in a somewhat secluded spot.  I'd like to someday build a new harness myself using Holley's below harness and connecter set - so i can run wires how I want, route the way I want, etc. Being a mid-engine makes my setup a bit different too - as my intake is flipped...Not an easy job, but I like the challenge...  Finding high quality shrink wrap has been a challenge...haven't found a good source yet, but also haven't looked too hard. If anyone has recommendations that would be great.

View attachment 92194

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Willy's Electronics in National City has high-quality shrink wrap.

https://we-supply.com/

 
Reece Pettersen said:
Stay away from switch pros. They are being torn out of x2 race cars I know of because they are causing DNFs. I sold a 1600 car with a switch pros... didn't have issues when I owned it, new owner was fighting issues, rewired the entire car only to find out the switch pros had an issue in the sealed box. 
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@Reece Pettersen Im curious if you have had issues with the newer 9100's?  I know 3 people that had failures with the 8100's but I have not heard of anyone with a 9100 having issues.  They had an issue with cheap knock off flooding the market on the 8100's.

That aims system is super nice, I just cant seem to find a place to buy it.

 
I know of 10 people that run the 9100 and some have used it for 3 seasons now.
No issues.

 
As for switchpro I have the 8 switch version. I didn’t put anything critical on it for just in case purposes. Just lights and accessories. But I’m on season 2 with zero hiccups. 

 
Dynamicdude said:
Keep us updated on you findings and or changes, Im invested now.......
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I finished the install and wiring over the weekend. I'll start it tonight and get a base tune on it and then send it to dyno hopefully this week. I'll take some pics later of how I ran everything and post them up

 
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