.

EVBM said:
What was the warning? for those of us that don’t do the F book. 🤷‍♂️
Click to expand...
Basically, you got to get the new heim's threaded in as close to the old ones as possible. If you don't, you can move the spindles closer (or further) to the transmission causing the axle to bottom out, which will cause either the spindle to break or you rip tabs off the frame. (Ask me how I know lol ) or if it's too far, the axle will pull out. Your alignment will get whacked as well and your rear end will be all over the place at speed.

Lastly, you need to double-check axle length when you're all done to make sure. It can be a real mother to adjust those five links.

I think he's going to find that each side isn't the same. 

If I were to do it all over again, I would swap out all my heims, get the rear as even as possible, and then aligned... then measure for new axles last. When you're using the old axles you kind of have to work around those measurements. Some of my heims were almost threaded all the way out on one side to get the alignment correct.

If his car was set up properly from the get-go he probably won't encounter the problems that I had.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Mac said:
I ain't scared... did used to rig jet engines and turboprops back in the day... :lol:
Click to expand...


LegitDuner said:
Basically, you got to get the new heim's threaded in as close to the old ones as possible. If you don't, you can move the spindles closer (or further) to the transmission causing the axle to bottom out, which will cause either the spindle to break or you rip tabs off the frame. (Ask me how I know lol ) or if it's too far, the axle will pull out. Your alignment will get whacked as well and your rear end will be all over the place at speed.

Lastly, you need to double-check axle length when you're all done to make sure. It can be a real mother to adjust those five links.

I think he's going to find that each side isn't the same. 

If I were to do it all over again, I would swap out all my heims, get the rear as even as possible, and then aligned... then measure for new axles last. When you're using the old axles you kind of have to work around those measurements. Some of my heims were almost threaded all the way out on one side to get the alignment correct.

If his car was set up properly from the get-go he probably won't encounter the problems that I had.
Click to expand...
I was always under the thinking that with the 5-link set up the rear hubs movement in and out as it traveled up and down,, that the axles would maintain the same distance at any height. Is this wrong, do the axles move in and out at the cv's? 

 
richard h said:
I was always under the thinking that with the 5-link set up the rear hubs movement in and out as it traveled up and down,, that the axles would maintain the same distance at any height. Is this wrong, do the axles move in and out at the cv's? 
Click to expand...
If you get the arm lengths wrong, it absolutely will move in/out since they don’t match the axle length or angle anymore. 

 
richard h said:
I was always under the thinking that with the 5-link set up the rear hubs movement in and out as it traveled up and down,, that the axles would maintain the same distance at any height. Is this wrong, do the axles move in and out at the cv's? 
Click to expand...
I'm not sure I completely understand your question but on my SU ultra light 5 link we found that at full droop it had a quarter/half (I don't remember exactly) inch play with the axle and then at full bump it was tight against the CV cups (More than too tight, they were too long)  So it kind of traveled elliptically. The more you compress the suspension the tighter the axle would get. I don't know if that goes for all five link.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Mac said:
So...chrome plating is not happening.  I don't have that much to get redone and they quoted me $3600!  Powdercoat it is.
Click to expand...
Seriously. When I did the A+ the Chrome was twice as much as the powder coating and painting.  But I had a vision. 
 

FE0047B6-0F4C-49CA-8E41-00F6F6092459.jpeg

431B78DD-3FB8-451F-9293-CF80C2E22EDD.jpeg

E2C31545-606A-4C36-94A2-B6998038B8C1.jpeg

 
Mac said:
So...chrome plating is not happening.  I don't have that much to get redone and they quoted me $3600!  Powdercoat it is.
Click to expand...
I think some powder coat shops have a close to chrome powder.

 
Gonna redo those fuel lines as well? Based on the fade on the anodizing, I’m assuming they’re a bit crusty.

 
Looking good that car will be TOPS

 
Last edited by a moderator:
I'll make sure to draw chit in the dust next time I see it. :biggrin:

 
  • Haha
Reactions: Mac
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top