2D Options - Repair or Upgrade?

Sean@Weddle said:
Things are moving fast for Weddle sequential transaxles these days. Possibly delivering all backorders in the next 2-3 months. New orders will be delivered after all backorders are fulfilled. (New order placed now means trans delivered April/May 2023)
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Delivered in April/May 2023?  Not 2024?

McMullen told me 2 weeks ago that new gear boxes are still 6-9 months out.

 
Sean@Weddle said:
Another set of questions that probably deserves it's own post, but I'll make quick answers here:

Width vs. depth (shaft center distance): Generally, bigger shaft centers will create a stronger gear, allowing for larger tooth profiles in lower ratio gears. Space requirements do not always allow for big shaft centers. 

Gear ratio lifetime: The lower the ratio, the driving gear has to turn the driven gear over more often, so the teeth on the driving gear see more use (example: a 3.09 1st gear, the driving gear turns 3.09 times for every 1 turn of the driven gear). The bigger effect is how much use that particular gear is subjected to. 2nd and 3rd gear wear out fast simply because they are used the most.

R&P's wear at a different rate than 1st-4th gears for a variety of reasons, the biggest being that the R&P is always driving under load in any gear. But, since the gear teeth are much larger in size, they can somewhat even each other out over time.

A taller ratio R&P is stronger, and generally longer lasting because there are typically more teeth on the pinion head (see my comment above about a 3.09 1st gear wear life), but since the final drive ratio is higher, you need to compensate by running a lower ratio forward gearset (this is the Fortin conundrum, high ratio R&P for strength, lower/weaker ratio 2nd gear to compensate). 

A lower ratio R&P is weaker, but allows for a stronger, higher ratio forward gearset. The trick is find the happy medium, which I think we have the best options for with 4.63, 4.86, and 5.14 R&P's that allow for decently stronger 2nd and 3rd gears. 
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Taller R&P also puts more load on the gears themselves since it's harder to turn.  Shorter gearing reduces load on everything upstream of it.

 
I learned, at the end of the day a 2D is more money than a Albins. the 2D takes and takes more money,  if you look at the s4 next to a 2d they do not even look like the same sport, S4 will save you a ton of money in the long run, 

 
lincster said:
Delivered in April/May 2023?  Not 2024?

McMullen told me 2 weeks ago that new gear boxes are still 6-9 months out.
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Like I said, things are moving fast. I am sure Kevin will be calling me today asking for ETA's.

J Alper said:
I learned, at the end of the day a 2D is more money than a Albins. the 2D takes and takes more money,  if you look at the s4 next to a 2d they do not even look like the same sport, S4 will save you a ton of money in the long run, 
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Shhhhhhhh! I have house payments to make. 

 
if you are going to upgrade just get a NEW one.  The upgrades are worth it. you can save a few thousand by buying a used one. Even if it is rebuilt I doubt it has the new shifter linkage. Buy a new one for sure.  I think they are 15.5k  I got lucky and paid 15 and someone canceled so I got it in one day.  right time and place I guess. 

 
Squatcher said:
if you are going to upgrade just get a NEW one.  The upgrades are worth it. you can save a few thousand by buying a used one. Even if it is rebuilt I doubt it has the new shifter linkage. Buy a new one for sure.  I think they are 15.5k  I got lucky and paid 15 and someone canceled so I got it in one day.  right time and place I guess. 
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What does the new shifter linkage do or solve that that an older one would not? 

 
Dockmaster said:
What does the new shifter linkage do or solve that that an older one would not? 
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some of them have them.  it is a 3k upgrade.  the new cases look stronger and shift like butter.  Sean could chime in on this one. That is the reason I bought new. found a few for 12k but with the upgrade I was at new price and then everything was new. 

 
Gen 3 shifter fixes everything. 

Old shift mechanism tends to hang up after a shift, creating the "ghost shift" (pull lever and nothing happens in the trans), as well as beats up dogs due to slow actuation inside the gearbox. 

 
I've heard and read that a 2D is good up to 500hp, Is that number at the crank or at the tires?  I assume it's at the crank but not 100%.

Found the info in the transaxle thread, said 400hp at the crank.

 
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Reddragon said:
I've heard and read that a 2D is good up to 500hp, Is that number at the crank or at the tires?  I assume it's at the crank but not 100%.

Found the info in the transaxle thread, said 400hp at the crank.
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Torque and shock/impact load are the killer's. 2D would last longer on a 500hp subie vs a 500hp LS. 

 
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My LS3 was rated at 510hp from CBM when new. Doesn’t feel like it’s lost much given the little use. The builder of my car said the 2D would be fine given the lightweight of the car. To be fair, the trans is 7 years old and never been opened up. But, the car has only about 2k miles since new. I’m not complaining about the 2D when taken all into account. But I will upgrade to a S4 for piece of mind. And the H-pattern is a little inconvenient given 90% of my shifting is second to third and back to second. There has been more than a few occasions where I needed a quick shift down to second and I didn’t shift smooth or quickly and things can get sporty when that happens and momentum is lost. 

 
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