1964 Dodge A-100 Hot rod sort of rat rod build thread.

Notice how the shafts are offset a bit.  Picture a planetary gear set in an auto trans, but with only one planet and the ring gear....no sun gear.  The one that is centered is the ring gear, the offset one is the planet.  This is how they can also offer different ratios.

 
This remote hydraboost kit is pretty neat. They are running hydraulic pressure to what looks like a clutch slave cylinder to actuate the Hydraboost. Although I don't think even that pedal and small primary master would fit. I like the idea though.

 
Looks like Wilwood makes that small primary pedal but reversed. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/wil-340-13574?utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=%2bwilwood+%2b340-13574&utm_content=Wilwood+Brakes&utm_campaign=Part+Number+Ad+Groups  

So it is just two hydraulic systems. One pushes on the next. Pretty simple. They are just using a clutch slave cylinder to actuate the secondary at the Hydraboost. That bracket would be easy to build. Would just have to figure out which slave and how to set the plunge. You would have two master cylinders. Way better than cables. Looks like that busted knuckle kit is used on rock crawlers. 

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Just turn the pedal around, flip the bracket, and change the pivot location on the busted knuckle unit.  

 
Just turn the pedal around, flip the bracket, and change the pivot location on the busted knuckle unit.  
Yep that will probably do it. I was able to get the part number off that pedal assembly and will verify with wilwood. The slave cylinder is off of a 1980 to 85 Jeep CJ5 or cj7. Looks like this is all engineerable.

 
I'm going to do all the exhaust in the darker vortex bronze. And then the two turbo brackets in the lighter burnt bronze. Motor and transmission will be all satin black. I think it will pop nicely.

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This rack for the seats turned into quite the project. I'm trying to have at least one inch clearance so the bushing on the airbag and the internal bump can compress and still have clearance. With an inch if it hits I will just put a stop on it. With that tire being right under the seat I think I'm going to add another 1/8 piece of plate steel under the seat. I think my brother killed it on the logo. I told him I wanted an old Jimi Hendrix 60s concert poster vibe. Just an example right now and actually has a Ford Econoline instead of a dodge. Once we have the roll bar built and the intercooler all installed we will get a photo and then incorporate that into the design. Of course we will need t-shirts for this truck. The seat frame will get welded directly to the frame of the truck and have additional triangular gussets. Also the ears hanging out that are at an angle will get attached to the roll bar on the outer edge to tie it all together. Floor will be 18 gauge steel wrapping up over top.

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I'm going to run brackets off the roll bar and weld steel logos to look like a window sticker but it will be steel floating in front of the glass. Shop logo will be on the left side and on the right the round little rusty wagon logo.

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Well I squeezed every little ounce of space I could with what I had to work with. So wherever the front tires rotate left or right I have right at an inch of clearance with the air out of the bags. Compression on the upper bag mount and the internal rubber stop will be interesting. This gives me 3 1/4" head clearance to the roof. Line of sight out of the front glass will be about 5 in from the top edge of the glass which actually is pretty darn good. Feels like it will be comfortable and not an issue. Although adding a headliner or wearing a helmet might not be feasible. Actually the seat will go up 1/8 of an inch because I am putting some plate steel between my ass and that front tire.

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Not sure what happened with the double post and mixing up the text. Anyway this driver's left back corner of the cab is rusted out pretty bad and I have to try plug that from the outside air. I don't want any fastener showing on the outside so again I will have to panel Bond some pieces of metal in. Probably a combination of welding and panel bonding.

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This interior corner trim piece with the holes in it was rusted out at the bottom on the left side. Not sure if I'm going to repair and reinstall that or remove the right side and just leave them out. I have to decide if I'm just going to run the floor under the seats directly back and then that would be a dead hole down on the bottom corners. Probably going to need to use those spaces in the two corners because there's so much crap that has to go into this truck. Especially if I want to try get a sound system in it and at least one small subwoofer or maybe two.

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I have been watching reclaimed wood that comes up for sale and didn't really see something I like real well. And then realized my dad had all of this stashed in the corner of the garage up north. So cool. All kinds of termites holes and other character in the wood. I really won't need much so I can pick and choose from all of this and cut out the gnarled up pieces for the bed. I might just slide all the pieces together and not do the chain idea or run the chain on top of the wood. I would hate to start routering some of this and have it splinter and come apart. It is pretty old and weathered. Not sure the best way to hold the pieces down without using a tapered bit with something like carriage bolts and again damaging the wood with the bit.

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Two more pieces that were at the bottom of the pile. Awesome stuff. I might have to take some liquid nail and try hold the splintery pieces together

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Found a few more. Some of the coolest pieces in the pile. I'll have to decide if I want to use nicer pieces or I think there's enough that is weathered real bad like this. With the weathered pieces I would have to somehow run some kind of fastener all the way through using a long drill and then with glue holding it together.

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Really like how the cerakote came out on the exhaust. Nice color that matches well with the bumpers and wheels. I'm thinking about doing all the aluminum cold side turbo tubes in aluminum sanded and brushed with some satin clear. Same with the valve covers and a few other parts.

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