1964 Dodge A-100 Hot rod sort of rat rod build thread.

20230407_163034.jpgBuilding this frame is going to be a huge job. In the back there were some blind nuts in the unibody so I was able to get started and get my tailgate back working. That was just two sleeves through the box. I have 32 more to go in the cradle pieces. :omg:

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LOL when the truck is on the ground the tailgate will be 13 in off the ground at ride height. Damn near like sitting on the ground.

 
Never-ending rhat noise, send that out to a shop with a cnc and have them knock them out... 

 
Bobalos said:
32 sleeves to cut, drill and tap....  nevermind that noise.....  get someone to do them on a cnc.  
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OK Gotcha. Cut them off in the band saw and then clean up in the belt sander. Not even skimming them in the lathe. Saw gets them plenty close for this.  Then drill the box in the mill. Use a die grinder and small burr to clean the last little bit so the tubing slides in. And last weld them in. CNC would not help unfortunately. Just have to do the work and grind it out. The bolt goes through the sleeves so at least they don't need tapped.

 
Probably 5 hours of measuring and checking today. I've got the body as level as I can get it. 5 1/2 in ride height. Angles on the suspension arms set just like a stock c5z06. As close as I can measure it looks like my wheelbase might end up at 89 and 3/8 which is 5/8 shorter than what they say from the factory. Factory offset in those Wheels forward or backward in the wheel well might have been a little bit different but I'm trying to center them in the wheel wells by eye. Quite a ways to go to get this how square I want it before starting to weld on parts. I will probably weld in some temporary gussets to hold everything in place.

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Talked to Lee Power steering this morning. They had set up my Nissan PS pump for the correct pressure to run the Funco Gen 4 rack. 18 years later it still works fine. I will be running the Holley front pulley kit and they said that GM style pump puts out 1250 psi. Great for whatever rack I decided to put on there. But he likes to see 1350-1400 psi for the hydroboost setup. He said try it first and see how the brakes work.  Guys in the shop say we have run both many times without issue. If you bump the pressure to the rack the steering gets lighter. I also did a separate bump steer thread. Might end up with a Mustang 2 rack. Although I don't like the angle of the pinion going in. Might be hard to work with. 

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If the ratio works the 2000 Honda accord rack is slightly shorter and the pinion angle is less. Whatever I run will need to be flipped over. 

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Well, Got to looking at this today and none of those racks are going to even be close to working.  From the centerline to where the pinion comes in and that shaft from the chain drive is 7-8". Any more and it runs into the cradle.  This is going to need short center rack with extensions. Ugg. Price just went up for this project. Back to the drawing board. 

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Gear one is having a sale....  just sayin...  LOL 

 
Unisteer has some very interesting products. This kit is a 68-72 A body, Chevelle, El Camino, Monte Carlo. Just looking at the picc I think I could adapt that to fit and work. Need to give them a buzz. 

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I have seen these flaming river racks for different applications and mentioned this before. No reason I couldn't offset the rack and then on the slider bar weld the pivot points offset to the rack and in the proper location. 

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Think I found  my rack. Center to the pivot ball under the boot would be 10.25 inches so the pinion is very close to the center. With this I would need about a 1" extender on each side. Could it be this easy?  They even have a cool guy flexible line kit since I would be flipping it over. 

 
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