091 to 2D swap ?'s

Sean is saying above that mount should go on the other side of the bell housing mount.  His suggestion.

 
lincster said:
Sean is saying above that mount should go on the other side of the bell housing mount.  His suggestion.
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Right. If I trim the mount at the line shown I can slide the mount forward to fit in front of the bell housing tabs.

 
Nice upgrade !. But,

If you have any intentions of big HP or a V8 in the future skip the 2d and pony up for an S4. 

 
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Same thing I said back in the early  2000's when it was economical to a certain extent, But doing an S4 car now a days is a whole lot different and hard to justify. Unless you have disposable income.

 
Made a bit more progress...

Fuel tank moved up, radiator is not installed yet. It looks like I'll be able to drop it down a bit from where it's currently sitting, just need to fab up some brackets. 

The new trans is located perfectly to where the trans C.V.'s and outer C.V.'s are aligned at full droop. Motor sits at roughly the same height. Motor mounts will be shifted back as the motor itself move back approx. 2". New engine cage coming soon, too.

I found myself at a stopping point Sunday so I decided to fool around with my started as it wouldn't work in its current configuration. I separated the housing and the rotational mount. I've drilled two holes to rotate the mount to a position that would work for me. Turns out I didn't have the proper size tap for my new holes but I think it may work. Might turn out to be simple option to buying a new starter. 

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Got the radiator mounted. It's a little higher and more vertical than I wanted but it is what it is. I'm holding off on motor mounts and a new starter for now. My 091 is off getting a rebuild. The plan is to sell the engine/trans as a combo. If I can get enough out of them I'm going to have Alper throw together a very mild (stockish) 5.3.

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091 is fresh from Weight gearbox and up for sale.

 
HELP!
I'm having a hell of a time getting the car to shift.

With the engine off I can glide through all gears really nicely. Start car, I could not get a single gear. If I put the car in gear before I start it, I can't get out of that gear until I shut it off.

I've bled the slave to death. I pulled all but the last tiny bit of slack out of the throw out bearing arm, adjusted my clutch pedal waaaaay out (wildwood hanging pedals) to get the most travel out of it. It seems like I can't get enough throw on the pressure plate to fully disengage the clutch.
After all that I'm able to sorta get 2nd, 3rd & 4th, but not smoothly. However, that's only possible by pre-loading the throw out bearing arm which causes the clutch to drag.
I've never run into this issue, every shifter I've ever setup took 10 mins of fine tuning and I was good to go.

Some info-
Jamar Pro X shifter
U-Joints at both ends of the shift rod
Sachs throw out bearing (New)
CNC slave
KEP pressure plate

Anybody got any ideas?
 
Have you checked the clutch pedal release point? (put car in gear, jack one rear tire off ground, push pedal down and have someone rotate tire in the air, set clutch pedal stop once tire releases with clutch pedal travel)

Does the car want to move while in gear with engine running and clutch pedal pushed down?

What oil are you running?
 
No, car doesn't want to move with the clutch pushed down. When i let the clutch out it travels way out before the clutch grabs and car starts to move.
Oil is Lucas 85-140
 
Everything seems to work as it should with the car running and in gear. I let the clutch out it starts to move, clutch in it disengages. I feel like there's something going on in the trans which means my Veterens trip will be spent riding the clooler.....again. 😢
 
Badbar88 said:
No, car doesn't want to move with the clutch pushed down. When i let the clutch out it travels way out before the clutch grabs and car starts to move.
Oil is Lucas 85-140
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If its difficult to pull out of gear while running, that can be a symptom of a clutch hanging up and not allowing the parts inside the trans to unload and pull out of gear.

The clutch pedal only needs to travel 3"-4" to disengage the clutch. If you are pushing the pedal it's full travel, which is often 5"+, its possible that the clutch drags when pushing the throw out bearing too far into the pressure plate. If it is dragging, that could cause the symptom of not pulling out of gear. Try setting a clutch pedal stop just past the point where the clutch opens up to limit how far the throw out bearing travels into the pressure plate. This is unlikely to be the cause, but worth taking the time to sort out regardless.

It's also worth pointing out the obvious with shifter rod and u-joints. Any slop between the shifter and trans can cause these types of issues.
 
Did you adjust the the slave cylinder rod on both ends? I had a similar issue and adjusting the rod on the other end solved the problem for me.
 
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