091 to 2D swap ?'s

Badbar88

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I'm gonna go ahead and do this swap in the next couple of months. Current situation is an 091 mated to a J35a4. My question is, can I re-use anything like the starter, adaptor plate, clutch/pressure plate? 

I know I'll be doing some fab work and buying new axles. 

 
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Can't help with your questions.  But I'll be in a similar situation with a sand rail that I just bought, so I'm all ears.

 
I'm gonna go ahead and do this swap in the next couple of months. Current situation is an 091 mated to a J35a4. My question is, can I re-use anything like the starter, adaptor plate, clutch/pressure plate? 

I know I'll be doing some fab work and buying new axles. 
I know that you will need a different starter. It takes a low profile unit, like the 101nl model. Not sure about adapter and parts.

 
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After talking to the shop I'm getting the trans from, the starter may work after all. I'll keep my fingers crossed 🤞 Thanks for the responses 

 
What I ran into was the starter on a 2d mounts at the center top. The water crossover on the motor would interfere with the starter solenoid. Hope yours works for you.

 
mounts will also be completely different, starter will go to a 101n or 101,  clutch disc will go to a G50,  pressure plate and flywheel will stay the same,   

will need to change axles, the width of the trans is different,  

 
I’m in the middle of the same swap right now except with a J30A1. The starter you’ll want is the 101NL. Kennedy will sell you the 4 studs needed for the adapter plate to the 2D for $20. The two longer ones go on the bottom. Buy their 6 puck with the g50 spline while you’re on the phone. And you’ll need longer axles, the 2D is 2 inches narrower at the output flanges. 

 
I’m in the middle of the same swap right now except with a J30A1. The starter you’ll want is the 101NL. Kennedy will sell you the 4 studs needed for the adapter plate to the 2D for $20. The two longer ones go on the bottom. Buy their 6 puck with the g50 spline while you’re on the phone. And you’ll need longer axles, the 2D is 2 inches narrower at the output flanges. 
Right on, thanks for the heads up on the studs

I know these threads were abundant before the site crashed. Everytime I start working on my car I'm reminded how much I miss all the info that was there.

 
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I have to move my fuel tank and radiator up a few inches. I'm happy I was able to fit the front trans mount in front of the trans so I wouldn't have to lift it over the mount to remove. Didn't have any luck with the rear mount due to where the vertical tube are located. I'll also be building a new rear cage, the other one was fugly anyway.

 
Suggestion,

Place that bell housing chassis mount on the other side of the bell housing tabs. you will need to trim it to fit, but will be the proper side. 

Problem is in the past is the tab thickness has changed, if you ever need a new bell housing or main case, those mounting distances will change. The forward side of the mounts on the case and bell housing will never, ever change since they are based on the mounting dimensions of the bell housing and gear carrier housing. 

Ask around to the guys that have has to swap out their "MD4S" main case to the new Deco cases and the mounts didn't line up. 

 
Also with the mount on the side you have it on requires the trans to go up before it can move towards the rear. Pain in the tail for sure.

 
Good info. Now that I've had the day to think this through its pretty easy to trim the mount to fit where I want on the front side of the tabs. 

Thanks!

 
J35A4 and a 2D is a solid combo. That was in my last car. Lived a long time. 5 dune seasons, making 15+ trips per season, finally rebuilt and replaced 2nd gear after 5 years.

 
Good info. Now that I've had the day to think this through its pretty easy to trim the mount to fit where I want on the front side of the tabs. 

Thanks!
Are you talking the mount at the bell housing?

 
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