Recent content by SeanRitchie

The MD5 is mostly obsolete as of now. Parts are no longer being made for them, specifically R&P's and 1st/2nd main shafts. They will eventually die off. There are few short course racers that still use them, but they don't burn through the specific MD5 parts that fast. Best option to replace...

There is no way to get away from the smaller 7.25"/8"/9" clutch package with anything other than a GM V8 engine. Weddle now makes a billet adapter that allows the use of an Albins VW style bell housing on the S4D/S5D transaxle, which will then be used to mate to whatever non-GM V8 engine you...

Appreciate all of the recommendations. Unfortunately I could not turn this one around in the timeline it was needed. I threw out a number of reputable builders for him to call, glad Daniel Artigas can get him taken care of.

You ever going to enter that dune buggy in an actual race that it was built for? :sneaky:

Albins for the guys who have the money and don't mind spending it on nice things. S4D for the guys that have a budget but still need strength.

They are good for about 800 HP/TQ at the crank in a typical sand car. Any more than that and they start wearing out gears (as in this case) or breaking 3rd gear. The gears in the H-pattern units are narrower than the sequential.

I would agree that it is likely the trans if the CV's looked ok when you inspected them. Quick check would be jacking one rear tire off the ground and spinning it in neutral. That will turn the spider gears and R&P. That should give you a fairly obvious noise from inside the trans.

The hero we need! 1st order of business, highway median delete.

Red loctite on CV bolts. CLEAN threads on bolt and flange thoroughly. Like a whole can of carb/brake cleaner clean.

Yes to most all of that. The engine will move back 1.385" (S4 with VW BH/.500" thick adapter plate), but stay in the same vertical position. I actually don't know the difference in spread between the S4 mounting tabs and S4D mounting tabs. Weddle does not show that dimension on the diagrams...

I can explain in detail over the phone. Same distance from center of drive flange to input shaft. But... 1. Bottom of "D" trans case sits lower (larger diameter ring gear), trans and engine have to move up in chassis, unless S4 is already positioned high enough, which is unlikely. 2. You...

I've been swamped all week working 8-7. Haven't been able to pull away and check it out. Will try in a few weeks when things settle down a bit. IF they settle down a bit.

Depends on the type of switch you use. You only need a low voltage switch wired into the ground circuit of a +5v power source. Once the switch closes, it completes the ground and sends the signal to the dash. Send me an e-mail, I have the original instruction from Remark on my hard drive...

You need to install a microswitch on the reverse lever/cable and wire it to the loose/unused wire on the harness for the gear indicator.

AGB Synchromesh will be stronger against an S4 with 10" R&P. S4D with 11.5" R&P will be stronger than AGB Synchromesh.