Recent content by SeanRitchie

Paddle shifters require some sort of throttle blip on downshifts to "throw" the dogs out of the gear they are in so they will unload and shift into the next gear. Upshift is somewhat easy as far as "detuning" with fuel/ignition cut to cut the torque load on the gears. What can happen is the...

When trans and motor are assembled, the throw out bearing will be sprung back and held against the transmission. You can physically pull the arm on the outside of the bell housing and feel the throw out bearing stop against the clutch fingers. This is typically about 1/2"-3/4" of movement from...

Crack the bleeder screw open on the side of the BH, push the throw bearing all the way against the trans. Put a flat edge across the bell housing and measure the face of the throw out bearing to the edge of the bell housing. Record measurement. Assemble the clutch on the engine, torque down...

^^^ This is accurate.

This will require a DBW throttle body for proper operation. There are some guys that have fitted electric actuators to cable operated throttle bodies for blipping on a downshift, but they have never been able to get them to work as well. Also, I've dealt with a Pikes Peak racer that had issues...

Maybe I'll talk to Dave and see if he wants me to do a paddle shifter article for the home page. I just haven't had any time to spend on other things while I've been getting my shop up and running and transmissions out the door this past few weeks. I know the "hardware" side of paddle shifting...

More info please. What trans and engine? What clutch? What type of bell housing on trans (VW or Chevy (VW has starter mounted above trans, Chevy will have starter mounted under engine block)).

As long as there are no major issues with it internally, I can have it done in about 2 weeks once received at my shop. A major note would be that if there is an issue with the housings (cracks) or shifting system (no available replacement parts), You would have to convert it to a Weddle...

Update, Ship is fully operational as of last week. Got a few transmissions done and delivered. Have a few weeks worth of work on carts waiting on various incoming parts, and getting calls everyday to schedule more services. Feels good to turn wrenches again.

Johnny Cross is a good guy if you are local to him. I worked with a bit on RJ Anderson's team. He'll get you sorted out. My shop is fully up and running as of last week if you are willing to get here to Lake Havasu, I am now accepting all services.

I'll throw my hat in the ring as well if you want it rebuilt. Currently stocked up on seals and bearings. Just need to order any major parts that are broken.

A few things to keep in mind: 1. There is no difference in E-box and 2D nosecones, they are both VW Type 1 nosecones and the same externally with the exception that the "2D" nosecone has been machined internally for the larger mainshaft bearing. 2. There is such a thing as a Type 1 shift shaft...

I don't know how this guy is but mostly good information with a few notes: 1. You can downshift without the clutch, it requires a blip of the throttle as you shift so throw the dogs forward and into the next gear. This is not easy when under braking at the same time. Using the clutch is fine...

Since this discussion was resurrected, Weddle is no longer producing a 9" twin disc clutch package. They were going to double in cost and the sales volume wasn't there anyways. It's a bummer because they were a great clutch.

It was for a crazy 2000 HP road car build. It was a nightmare I'd rather not relive.