Metal Garages/Buildings - what's your experience?

Toy Collector

Toy Collector

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I have plans on tearing down a Garage built in 1942 that is listing to one side, and replacing with a brand new Metal Garage next year. Have any of you been through this and had something built?

Currently looking at a 45' x 35' Viking Structure. Colors aren't set, just using contrast on the design but will need to stick with a light brown/dark brown to match the house.

1765914293464.png

What surprises, if any did you come across?

What manufacture did you use and were you happy with the results?

What maintenance are you going through on your building?

I have friends willing to help make the concrete costs about 50% of what I'd normally see but still need dirt work done, pad expanded from current footprint to even up with my Attitude carport level (translation: easy work). Ignore the mess in the driveway, I cleaned that up years ago.

1765914724315.png
 
Realbadlarry said:
What City are you in? Our neighbors all have them, they love them... but city is cracking down...
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I'm in a rural part of Vista where County rules apply, not City. We were annexed into the City last year but had a personal meeting with the Mayor and he told us all to keep living how we have been living and don't worry about any changes. They just want our tax $, he was clear about that.

So... I need to get this done while he (R) is in office.

A friend of mine's Dad is Bud Duncan from Duncan's Gunworks in San Marcos and he has a setup that's in City boundaries with a Shipping container next to it... he's not having any issues with regulations.
 
Following this, I want to put a 40' X 60' on my property, but I'm sure the cost will keep me from doing it for a few years
 
Toy Collector said:
I'm in a rural part of Vista where County rules apply, not City. We were annexed into the City last year but had a personal meeting with the Mayor and he told us all to keep living how we have been living and don't worry about any changes. They just want our tax $, he was clear about that.

So... I need to get this done while he (R) is in office.

A friend of mine's Dad is Bud Duncan from Duncan's Gunworks in San Marcos and he has a setup that's in City boundaries with a Shipping container next to it... he's not having any issues with regulations.
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SD County sucks ass to deal with. I assume Vista is better?

In Excess said:
Remember it is a barn, your not storing cars in there
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Yes. This. It's an agriculture building. Even better if you run power after the fact.
 
Stay away, if you plan on staying in the long run, so many hidden cost, for example metal building give a price of just the building.

Start with permitting and zoning
You still need cost for, soil reports, concrete pad, footings, type-II
Then the Building - It not apples to apple, they just do not insulate the same, then the interior will you dry wall the interior. lighting and electrical,
Then if in a residential area, does it bring anything to the value to the property,

I thing a steel building work great for storage, but if you are using it for a garage. then stick frame is a better way to go,
 
We did electrical on a big prefab building and all I can say is this. Read the BOM very carefully because everything once we got on-site was ala carte and an extra. from roof penetrations, to cutting out can lights in the eves and HVAC curbs, widows of course were not included but neither was the window sills or trim pieces around doors. The onsite guy said that the owner Value Engineered all of the stuff out of the package.

Fast forward about six months and next door to a friend of my boss and they were building another prefab building, same crew and I told him better watch out for ole Change Order. The owner said no change orders here we have everything included / turnkey. Next time I was onsite that owner walks up and says, I should have listened because Change Order has his hands so deep in my pockets he is tickling my balls.

So while you and your friends might be able to put it together, just make sure they are suppling everything because if not your going to get to meet Mr. Change Order.
 
J Alper said:
Stay away, if you plan on staying in the long run, so many hidden cost, for example metal building give a price of just the building.

Start with permitting and zoning
You still need cost for, soil reports, concrete pad, footings, type-II
Then the Building - It not apples to apple, they just do not insulate the same, then the interior will you dry wall the interior. lighting and electrical,
Then if in a residential area, does it bring anything to the value to the property,

I thing a steel building work great for storage, but if you are using it for a garage. then stick frame is a better way to go,
Click to expand...
Getting a stick built building approved in SD County is a major PITA, especially in a high fire risk zone.
 
J Alper said:
Stay away, if you plan on staying in the long run, so many hidden cost, for example metal building give a price of just the building.

Start with permitting and zoning
You still need cost for, soil reports, concrete pad, footings, type-II
Then the Building - It not apples to apple, they just do not insulate the same, then the interior will you dry wall the interior. lighting and electrical,
Then if in a residential area, does it bring anything to the value to the property,

I thing a steel building work great for storage, but if you are using it for a garage. then stick frame is a better way to go,
Click to expand...

Stick is better? How come? 🤷‍♂️
 
Toy Collector said:
I have plans on tearing down a Garage built in 1942 that is listing to one side, and replacing with a brand new Metal Garage next year. Have any of you been through this and had something built?

Currently looking at a 45' x 35' Viking Structure. Colors aren't set, just using contrast on the design but will need to stick with a light brown/dark brown to match the house.

View attachment 168376

What surprises, if any did you come across?

What manufacture did you use and were you happy with the results?

What maintenance are you going through on your building?

I have friends willing to help make the concrete costs about 50% of what I'd normally see but still need dirt work done, pad expanded from current footprint to even up with my Attitude carport level (translation: easy work). Ignore the mess in the driveway, I cleaned that up years ago.

View attachment 168378
Click to expand...
i have a great friend that builds these for a living in okc. I can ask him to chime in or get you in touch with him if you'd like to answer questions. they install them, build them but I believe they only do them now ground up. they only do from concrete up. they had a ton of issues with people wanting to do their own concrete work and the slabs were never square, then they tried to get the building up and it wouldn't work without a lot of mods. so he quit all that and only does them start to finish. a customer can build them out themselves, but his crew does it all so there's no issues. from what i gather, concrete being right is the key factor. and if your doing lifts making sure those piers are in the right places when pouring.
 
Rockwood said:
SD County sucks ass to deal with. I assume Vista is better?


Yes. This. It's an agriculture building. Even better if you run power after the fact.
Click to expand...

I ran power afterwards as well, but put the conduit in slab for future.

For an ag building I’m sure they were wondering why we had the concrete 8” thick

Riverside county is wanting sprinklers in buildings now
 
Didn't build a shop like this yet, but I built my own home in Menifee. Most of my surprises were from the City or County. So most of my input is regarding that.

Just a note, if you are going to demo the existing garage, demo the slab for it as well and pour one new slab for the new garage. You do not want to expand from the existing 1942 slab and have a structural issue with differential settlement.

Things to think about....

- Zoning, what does your zoning allow? Is there a height requirement?
- Demo, city may want a demo permit for your existing garage. I wouldn't even ask or mention it... it mysteriously vanished over the weekend.
- Soils, city may require a soils report from a geotech if you do not have any previous records of a soils report on your property.
- Grading, typically moving over 50CY's requires a grading plans/permit. If they ask, you have a nice flat area and need to move less than 50CY's. They will still make you OX and recompact to 90-95% depending on what that soils report recommends.
- Structural Slab, prefab company will make recommendations but it will need to be engineered. City will make you get structural plans from a Civil or Structural licensed in the great state of CA. Usually a separate cost outside of the plans you get from the prefab company.
- Electrical, I would say it does not have any electrical to avoid getting engineered plans for electrical. Can always be added later after receiving final inspection.
- Plumbing, if you want a sink or shitter in there, you will have to submit plans for it. If you are on septic, it may be an issue depending on the size of your septic system. If its too small, they may make you expand your leach field. This opens up another can of worms with the county as you will need to recertify your system. Regardless, they will want to make sure its sized correctly.
- Fire Protection, it will most likely be required now with the new CBC if your are trying to submit on a legit garage. Another set of plans that will be needed from a licensed FP engineer.

As for the style of structure:

The garage you are thinking of going with is a prefab system. Made with light gauge framing materials and self taper screws. Its great for carport, RV covers etc. Material is easy to work with and goes up quick. If you want it to be climate controlled, you need to make sure the exterior has a vapor barrier and proper attic ventilation in order to insulate it. If done right, you shouldn't be able to tell the different if it were stick built or prefab light gauge framed once drywall is up.

I would make sure you go through an installer and not directly with the manufacturer then get an installer. That way, if anything is missing from the kit, it is on the installer and not you. I would try to find an "owner builder" installer. They take more pride in their work and are typically a lot better to work with.

Maintenance wise.... I do not see it being any different that any other structurer. Especially being metal and not wood.

I have thought about doing one of these myself. One thought I had to help get through all the red tape was to start off by getting a permit for a "carport" or AG building. Same size structure with only (3) sides and have it sit on a curb on top of footing and the floor be rock or dirt. Get that built and get the city out of my hair. Once they are gone and its been a good minute, install UG utilities, pour a garage slab and build out the 4th wall with my garage doors, rough-in electrical insulate and isntall interior wall coverings. City or county wont know from GIS imagery the difference.
 
DarkSide said:
I built my 24x40 to keep the boat covered. It has been great, but if I had the money, I would have loved a stick building on a foundation. I paid around $13k for the building though. A garage the same size would have been $100k+

View attachment 168409View attachment 168410View attachment 168411
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Exactly what I would start off by doing but on a curb ontop of a foundation. Where are you located? How was the city on permitting this type of structure? My city doesn't seem to understand what category these fall under since they don't have a stupid box to check for it.
 
MWB said:
We did electrical on a big prefab building and all I can say is this. Read the BOM very carefully because everything once we got on-site was ala carte and an extra. from roof penetrations, to cutting out can lights in the eves and HVAC curbs, widows of course were not included but neither was the window sills or trim pieces around doors. The onsite guy said that the owner Value Engineered all of the stuff out of the package.

Fast forward about six months and next door to a friend of my boss and they were building another prefab building, same crew and I told him better watch out for ole Change Order. The owner said no change orders here we have everything included / turnkey. Next time I was onsite that owner walks up and says, I should have listened because Change Order has his hands so deep in my pockets he is tickling my balls.

So while you and your friends might be able to put it together, just make sure they are suppling everything because if not your going to get to meet Mr. Change Order.
Click to expand...
All great info, thanks Mike. Except… my friends and I aren’t putting the building together. That would be on the manufacturer or how has been suggested in some recent posts, here.

If you remember my buddy Alex (RIP) that would come out to Glamis, his Father in Law is one of the more top tier Concrete guys in North County and would be (likely) doing the dirt and concrete work, with me hoping to do the bitch work to reduce some costs.
 
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