VW, J Series, or Ecotec

trumanbuckley1 said:
I very much appreciate the input! I've done some stuff with LS swaps (carbureted SBC to LS) so I don't think the wiring/ecu part should be a big deal, fabrication is also not an issue as whatever I'm not proficient at my dad has built many rails over the years! His input on the whole thing is to ditch the FI and go to carbs but I'm too new school and want to try something different. He recently installed a 2005 Yamaha R1 engine in a Sand Sprite and it's been going good for many trips now with no issues! He also has manufactured his own flywheel and adapter plate to fit a 3.5 Isuzu engine into my uncles buggy. Very time consuming and tedious though.
Click to expand...
i would vote NO WAY on carbs. but i get it to a certain extent.....they are easier to setup. but the tunability isnt there. wouldnt run any better than your 4 knob setup.

the tough part about efi on an ACVW is there is SOME bolt on parts for doing this. Specifically, ditch the distributor and put a proper crank trigger on it and a simple cam sync in place of the distributor. then 4 coil packs.

you already have injectors but they are likely ancient Rochester types. ditch those and put modern bosch or equivalent late model OEM injectors in it.

get a modern ECU so you have full control, logging, wide band and so forth.

the other grossly overlooked problem is fuel pressure. good efi only works with ROCK STABLE fuel pressure. something your fuel tank is unable to provide. there are solutions for this as well.
 
daveH said:
i would vote NO WAY on carbs. but i get it to a certain extent.....they are easier to setup. but the tunability isnt there. wouldnt run any better than your 4 knob setup.

the tough part about efi on an ACVW is there is SOME bolt on parts for doing this. Specifically, ditch the distributor and put a proper crank trigger on it and a simple cam sync in place of the distributor. then 4 coil packs.

you already have injectors but they are likely ancient Rochester types. ditch those and put modern bosch or equivalent late model OEM injectors in it.

get a modern ECU so you have full control, logging, wide band and so forth.

the other grossly overlooked problem is fuel pressure. good efi only works with ROCK STABLE fuel pressure. something your fuel tank is unable to provide. there are solutions for this as well.
Click to expand...
Fuel pressure is solid, fuel system is clean as crystal, it definitely has old Bosch style low impedance injectors (60lb/hr) and a locked CB Magnaspark distributor. By the time I spend the money on the ignition system, new ECU, and injectors I feel like I could just put that money towards an engine swap and have miles more of reliability as opposed to the VW
 
trumanbuckley1 said:
Fuel pressure is solid, fuel system is clean as crystal, it definitely has old Bosch style low impedance injectors (60lb/hr) and a locked CB Magnaspark distributor. By the time I spend the money on the ignition system, new ECU, and injectors I feel like I could just put that money towards an engine swap and have miles more of reliability as opposed to the VW
Click to expand...
fuel pressure is solid......lmao........with the car sitting static and a full tank.

now run it down to half a tank, first pass through the whopps.....you have a stew of air and fuel going through your system.
 
  • Like
Reactions: GBR
If you got that from a local junk yard. See if they still have the engine wire harness. You'll need that...
 
Kraut_n_Rice said:
If you got that from a local junk yard. See if they still have the engine wire harness. You'll need that.
Click to expand...
I asked, did not receive. Going to a neighboring junkyard to get one and the rest of the parts they harvested off to sell individually! $338 for the engine (minus coils, harness, throttle body, alternator, and ECU) and the neighboring junkyard said he'd sell me the parts I'm in need of for just shy of $300. It appears to be a remanufactured engine as it has thermal discs on both heads and the block. Not the best deal but it's seemingly the going price and availability for my neck of the woods.
 
Don't buy the ECU. It won't work correctly outside the car. If they have another A4 get the belt tensioner too.

For around $600 for everything, you did pretty good, depending on mileage. A 175k leaky mess is $600 out here, striped like yours.

I always recommend guys look at ebay auctions in the midwest for engines now. Even with freight, they are cheaper than what you find in the southwest.
 
Kraut_n_Rice said:
Don't buy the ECU. It won't work correctly outside the car. If they have another A4 get the belt tensioner too.

For around $600 for everything, you did pretty good, depending on mileage. A 175k leaky mess is $600 out here, striped like yours.

I always recommend guys look at ebay auctions in the midwest for engines now. Even with freight, they are cheaper than what you find in the southwest.
Click to expand...
Yes planning on getting the tensioner with it. This engine has basically no oil leaks anywhere which is a big plus. I was under the impression that Harvey (Dune Addict on youtube) can bypass the immobilizer in the ecu and also make V-tec still work without a speed sensor. If not factory ecu, then which one?
 
trumanbuckley1 said:
Yes planning on getting the tensioner with it. This engine has basically no oil leaks anywhere which is a big plus. I was under the impression that Harvey (Dune Addict on youtube) can bypass the immobilizer in the ecu and also make V-tec still work without a speed sensor. If not factory ecu, then which one?
Click to expand...
Give me a call when you have a few... 480.328.9119
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top