Old School 2 Seat Alumicraft Rebuild

Mac said:
Awesome to see the progress.

A couple of thoughts:
- Wherever you plan on having electrical, weld a bolt on the frame for a good ground. Put one near the battery, engine, dash, wherever. These are great, solid points instead of drilling and screwing grounds into the frame everywhere. It will also cut down on wires going everywhere. Grounds are life!
- Map out wiring and any points where you might want to run wires in the frame, drill your holes so not to scratch or mess things up after powder coat.
- Check EVERY weld before going to powder coat.
- Think of additional mounting points for accessories. Where do you want to reposition things? How accessible will it be once things are together? How can you make it easier to troubleshoot and fix out on a ride?

Lastly....TAKE YOUR TIME! Yes, it equals down time but taking the time to think everything through will get you the perfect car. I looked at a lot of cars, talked to a lot of people, spent time of social media and websites looking at details. It seems to have paid off. Don't let others rush you.


I forgot to mention...take out stock in Amazon before you go any further...🤣

Lastly, do not let people steal your joy on this. You're going to get a lot of opinions and "that's not what I would do..." Those people are just Aholes stealing your joy. People like @Rockwood ...🤣
Click to expand...
Ha - ya all good points. Once all the fab work is complete, I plan to 95% assemble the car - drill any holes, ground points, brake line mount points, fuel pump and filer mounts,,,.essentially anything that could or would cause me to drill or weld on the frame - one of the fab items is a "mount plate" to hold he ecu, relays, etc.

My amazon already purchases items, and wish list, is already growing by the day.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Mac
Still waiting on a fab date, but I'd expect it to be in the next month or two.

Adding the front shock info here - good info.
.
I ordered the same shocks from my current car, Fox IBS that were made for the fronts of a Honda Talon. 26.54 (eye to eye) and a 9.7 shaft...the offroad IBS shocks in a 10-inch shaft and are 28.5 - too long for me...dudes with similar cars raise up the front shock mount - and it looks ugly as F in my opinion..."Fast Kenny's" car in example (no offense dude)...more money for the shocks plus fab work.

~$1650 shipped, and they came with springs this time (and the rates actually look to be close what I had planned)...vs 2600 and no springs last time...and, no springs came with them the 1st time...Not sure if Shock Therapy (where i bought them the 1st time as no one else had them) took them off, or wha.

Part number 885-08-500 - dude on Ebay has the best price

Things you have to change (or at least I do) The reservoir on them is at a fixed 45-degree angle (hits the a-arm) and the shock mount hole bushing are metric.

The mount hole bushing cavity hole is the same as FOX's offraod shock - so just buy a set for them - in my case, i just got the SDG.

Order Fox part number 206-72-400 top caps to make the reservoir at a strait angle,,,100 bucks a piece.

I'll have SDG swap out the top caps for me...300 i think they charged me last time.

In short - for about $2200 all in, shocks, springs, new reservoir installed, etc.

If you go the offroad IBS shock, it's ~2700 just for the shocks.

1744394555762.png
 
wesinls said:
Still waiting on a fab date, but I'd expect it to be in the next month or two.

Adding the front shock info here - good info.
.
I ordered the same shocks from my current car, Fox IBS that were made for the fronts of a Honda Talon. 26.54 (eye to eye) and a 9.7 shaft...the offroad IBS shocks in a 10-inch shaft and are 28.5 - too long for me...dudes with similar cars raise up the front shock mount - and it looks ugly as F in my opinion..."Fast Kenny's" car in example (no offense dude)...more money for the shocks plus fab work.

~$1650 shipped, and they came with springs this time (and the rates actually look to be close what I had planned)...vs 2600 and no springs last time...and, no springs came with them the 1st time...Not sure if Shock Therapy (where i bought them the 1st time as no one else had them) took them off, or wha.

Part number 885-08-500 - dude on Ebay has the best price

Things you have to change (or at least I do) The reservoir on them is at a fixed 45-degree angle (hits the a-arm) and the shock mount hole bushing are metric.

The mount hole bushing cavity hole is the same as FOX's offraod shock - so just buy a set for them - in my case, i just got the SDG.

Order Fox part number 206-72-400 top caps to make the reservoir at a strait angle,,,100 bucks a piece.

I'll have SDG swap out the top caps for me...300 i think they charged me last time.

In short - for about $2200 all in, shocks, springs, new reservoir installed, etc.

If you go the offroad IBS shock, it's ~2700 just for the shocks.

View attachment 141987
Click to expand...
Great info here. What do the old shocks measure eye to eye and shaft length?

Would love to hear about the rear setup too.
 
Reece Pettersen said:
Great info here. What do the old shocks measure eye to eye and shaft length?

Would love to hear about the rear setup too.
Click to expand...
All lengths noted are eye to eye...for the 2nd car there isn't a side-by-side shock that looks to be a good match for the rears...either way too long, or I'd go from a 35 inch 14 inch shaft, to a 34.4 with only a 12.15 shaft...i'm leaning towards the offroad IBS - see options 1 and 2 for the 2nd car below.

1744400570449.png
 
Last edited:
In the notes you state that you'd limit the 14" by two inches for cv life. How wouldn't the 12.15" be perfect?
 
Mac said:
Lastly, do not let people steal your joy on this. You're going to get a lot of opinions and "that's not what I would do..." Those people are just Aholes stealing your joy. People like @Rockwood ...🤣
Click to expand...
Listen here fucker. :ROFLMAO:

Mac said:
I used rivnuts where I could. They really clean things up and reduce hardware frustrations. I used all stainless steel rivnuts and hardware for this. Pretty reasonable on Amazon. Tractor Supply sells Grade 8 bulk hardware by the pound. It's pretty awesome and you just throw what you need in a bag and they weigh it.

Unless you're REALLY good at it, do not buy braided hoses or fittings on Amazon. It's all junk.
Click to expand...
Even if you are good at it. They're gonna fail. Usually brakes, fuel and oil get put into braided hoses, not worth your life to save a couple hundred $$ for a whole car.

One thing I noticed with SS rivnuts: they're not a fan of moving quickly when you're using zinc hardware. Hand tools only.
 
  • Haha
Reactions: Mac
Kraut_n_Rice said:
In the notes you state that you'd limit the 14" by two inches for cv life. How wouldn't the 12.15" be perfect?
Click to expand...

This is where I'm a bit grey...

Current shock is a total of 35 inches with a 14-inch shaft...but in my view:

Two options:

Option 1 - longer shock, same length shaft (37.6 14 inch total. 14 inch shaft) assuming i suck of the trailing arm a bit for angle (2 inches) - and given the pivot point difference between the trailing arm and shoch, the shaft would only reduce to something like 13 inches or so...in other words, I'm not sucking on 2 inches of the shaft.

Option 2 - 1/2 inch total length shorter (34.5 total, 12.15 inch) shaft...I'm off the get go worse off as shafy length is shorter by a somewhat considerable amount.


FWIW it's why i have them as options, as I'm not really sure which way to go...option 1 seems less likely to reduce my travel.
 
p.s - option 2 has the rebound adjustment built into the shock, option 1 does not.
 
wesinls said:
This is where I'm a bit grey...

Current shock is a total of 35 inches with a 14-inch shaft...but in my view:

Two options:

Option 1 - longer shock, same length shaft (37.6 14 inch total. 14 inch shaft) assuming i suck of the trailing arm a bit for angle (2 inches) - and given the pivot point difference between the trailing arm and shoch, the shaft would only reduce to something like 13 inches or so...in other words, I'm not sucking on 2 inches of the shaft.

Option 2 - 1/2 inch total length shorter (34.5 total, 12.15 inch) shaft...I'm off the get go worse off as shafy length is shorter by a somewhat considerable amount.


FWIW it's why i have them as options, as I'm not really sure which way to go...option 1 seems less likely to reduce my travel.
Click to expand...
Would different length lower eyelets resolve this? Other option is since you’re doing fab, make the mounts work for what works best.
 
Rockwood said:
Would different length lower eyelets resolve this? Other option is since you’re doing fab, make the mounts work for what works best.
Click to expand...
Yes, for the option that's shorter / the side-by-side shock - but the shaft length would remain the same, so I'm not sure what I'd gain there.
The longer shock, the offroad version, appears to have the shortest available eyelet on the bottom, but maybe not? Would be cool it there's a shorter / stubbier bottom eyelet.


1744416164256.png
 
wesinls said:
Yes, for the option that's shorter / the side-by-side shock - but the shaft length would remain the same, so I'm not sure what I'd gain there.
The longer shock, the offroad version, appears to have the shortest available eyelet on the bottom, but maybe not? Would be cool it there's a shorter / stubbier bottom eyelet.


View attachment 142013
Click to expand...
Doesn’t look like you could lose any length there. Other option would be shorter shaft from a shock shop, but not sure how those work on SxS IBPs
 
Still waiting to get in at Alumicraft to have the fab work done...was told by the end of August, but that date came and went.

I've spoken to Matt a few times and the time will come, he's sincerely excited as are the guys at the shop - they are stoked to see an old school car get a refresh...But I get it, it's a side project and not one of their new high dollar cars. I'm considering having someone else do the work, just a bit nervous to switch directions.
 
That’s a tough call, but if I can provide any advice is to stick with the builder for any work. I previously used a traditional fab guy who worked on everything but then later went and had work done by SU and there was a huge difference. SU will be the only one doing any fab work for me going forward. They know their own cars better, understand the quirks of them and I feel like the work is better overall. Just my 2 cents.
 
Dropped off car yesterday to start on the fab work. I was planning to have it done at alumicraft but after months of waiting - I started asking around.

A friend had some fab work done by a local shop - craftsmanship was awesome. Come to find out the shop is owned by the guy who built my frame back in the early 2000's at alumicraft -and the guy who works with him is super talented. They came to my house - scoped the project, and are just as excited as I am to get it going.

I'll post pics and updates as they come in.

Part list this far:

Honda J35 A4 - JDM motor -
Stock Computer purchased from @Kraut_n_Rice
2D Trans and ProAm shifter purchased from @Greg Rakes
Clutch, pressure plate, and wiring harness provided by @ChasingSand (only cost me a weekend of him being a passenger :)
OG Mendeola shifter for mid-engine setups
New Jet rim Seats (with heaters of course)
Baja Design lights
new kartek rack and pinion
new electric power steering
new steering wheel and disconnect
new old stock - CNC brake / clutch master cylinder
old school dash from an alumicraft (facebook connection)
new rugged radio and stereo
gearone front hubs
4 new internal bypass fox shocks 2.5's front and rear

Major parts still needed:

New Radiator
Beadlock wheels and tires (been trying to find used but no luck) - need 2 inch back space in rear and 3.5 in front - plus tires sizes that are compatible...buying new most likely
custom stainless headers
gearone super stub (damn things went from 2800 to 3800) - prob run stub axle for a year or 2 for now
CV's and axels


List of fab work to be completed:

  • Repair Tubes on Frame (lower left, middle seat bar, front nose)
  • Remove shifter and cutting brake mounts 2
  • Remove Misc Bars in engine area, old seat mounts, footrest
  • Mount Engine and Trans
  • Mount Seats (Slider on Driver Side)
  • Mount Pedal Assembly
  • Sub floor for pedal area
  • Steering Wheel Shaft and re-work – current steering wheel shaft mount poorly done
  • Mount Shifter and Shift Linkage
  • Mount Radiator – New CBR Radiator Needed
  • Throttle Cable mount – at pedal and engine – New Throttle Cable Needed
  • Floor Pan - Start at pedals
  • Trans Area Skid plate
  • Mount Power Steering
  • Mount Battery Box for 925 – or?
  • Mount Plate for ECU and Misc Electronics on both sides – section between rear seat and trailing arms)
  • Change out rear cage tube to new style clevis
  • Mount for two Front Lights – and two XL 80’s on a pilar (current mounts are shitty)
  • Rear Brake Light Tabs
  • Box in Front Shock Mounts
  • Fuel Tank / Fuel Cell – Needs return line and fuel gauge
  • Aluminum – Sides, Roof, area behind seats, potential trans tunnel to hold rugged radios, or behind seats – TBD after tank and shift linkage installed
  • Roof to be same as current car, whip mount needs to move
  • Mount Dash – I have a dash from a similar generation car
  • Side Steps
  • New Footrest
  • Misc bars to strengthen front end
  • Misc gussets on frame
  • X braces on bottom of frame
  • Engine belt tensioner mount on engine mount plate
  • Front brake mount on spindles (I can order the mount plate from gear one if needed)
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top