Rockwood
Well-known member
- May 5, 2021
- 5,774
- 7,352
Personally, I'm not a fan of full paint correction on a brand new car. There are a finite number of times you can correct a car, and with how thin today's paint/clearcoat are, plus the low VOC products they use, leave it alone as much as you can, even if there are factory blemishes (not damage). It's not worth removing blemishesif it means you're making a bare spot in the clearcoat. The guys who will color sand a brand new car to remove "orange peel" absolutely flabbergast me.
New car: just decontaminate it, light polish only areas with swirls or spots (finish pad, no cut) and apply your favorite wax. For the next application, it's decontaminate, then clay (if needed), then I mark which panels need swirl removal (if any) and only hit those with more aggressive polish.
I've always just used the Turtle Wax Hybrid Solutions paste wax. You can spend more, but I personally don't see the point. Lasts about a year with monthly re-sprays of the same product (spray form) when drying. I generally only physically dry the car when I spray wax, otherwise it's just air dry via my DI setup:
Ceramics are good for maaaaybe 2 years if you're super diligent about how you wash it, and if the water stops sheeting off it's time for a reapplication. I've watched a friend spend 6 hours ceramic coating his car. Looked the same when done, but his sheeted water for about 2 years and it took me maybe 30 minutes to apply the cheap ass Turtle Wax. Swirl protection seemed about the same.
New car: just decontaminate it, light polish only areas with swirls or spots (finish pad, no cut) and apply your favorite wax. For the next application, it's decontaminate, then clay (if needed), then I mark which panels need swirl removal (if any) and only hit those with more aggressive polish.
I've always just used the Turtle Wax Hybrid Solutions paste wax. You can spend more, but I personally don't see the point. Lasts about a year with monthly re-sprays of the same product (spray form) when drying. I generally only physically dry the car when I spray wax, otherwise it's just air dry via my DI setup:
A year or 2 ago I bought this feller:
https://www.amazon.com/Aquatic-Life-Deionized-Spot-Free-Rinse/dp/B07H8MQTMD/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=1FSAK96SSACN7&keywords=deionized+water+filter&qid=1692295106&sprefix=deionized+water+filter%2Caps%2C152&sr=8-1-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&psc=1
For spotless rinsing. Works great, full flow, but I was eating resin like candy with our 350ppm swamp water, so I stopped using it.
A couple of months ago, I put an inline filter for it in the vain attempt of extending resin life. It helped, a little, but not enough to...
https://www.amazon.com/Aquatic-Life-Deionized-Spot-Free-Rinse/dp/B07H8MQTMD/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=1FSAK96SSACN7&keywords=deionized+water+filter&qid=1692295106&sprefix=deionized+water+filter%2Caps%2C152&sr=8-1-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&psc=1
For spotless rinsing. Works great, full flow, but I was eating resin like candy with our 350ppm swamp water, so I stopped using it.
A couple of months ago, I put an inline filter for it in the vain attempt of extending resin life. It helped, a little, but not enough to...
- Rockwood
- Replies: 25
- Forum: General Chat
Ceramics are good for maaaaybe 2 years if you're super diligent about how you wash it, and if the water stops sheeting off it's time for a reapplication. I've watched a friend spend 6 hours ceramic coating his car. Looked the same when done, but his sheeted water for about 2 years and it took me maybe 30 minutes to apply the cheap ass Turtle Wax. Swirl protection seemed about the same.