.

Mac said:
Didn't get everything done I had planned for today but got side tracked and needed to clean the workspace up a bit.

Mounted the relays and started terminating some of the components. Ran the computer harness to see how it will be routed and where my pull off points will be. Fabbed my new exhaust and blow off tube. Just need to find a TIG guy here in Havasu. Mounted front brake lines.

Tomorrow will be more harness work.

Here is a Pic of what the wiring used to be...🤣 This rat's nest has bugged me since I bought the car. It will finally be gone and have the Mac stamp of approval.
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Those crooked ass labels make me want to stab babies and kill kittens!
 
Mac said:
I have tags on the engine and trans for a reason! :ROFLMAO:
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What about the ignition switch…? :ROFLMAO:

Mac said:
Just finished up the engine harness and will start laying out the computer harness and start terminating tomorrow.
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Make sure to affix the butt connections to an adjacent wire as part of a loom to prevent vibration damage at the connector.
 
Mac said:
Fueltech uses a touchscreen start button. I'm wiring up my Switchpro to be a master on/off and then a button to turn on the Fueltech.

I'm using the solder/heatshrink slices/terminals.
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I was joking about putting an oil reminder on the switch. I fail. :ROFLMAO:

Yeah, the part where it goes into the heat shrink is a bend point with a weight next to it. If it’s not connected to an adjacent wire, even in looming, the connector will bounce and fatigue the wire, breaking it inside the insulation. I found this out the hard way with mine and those connectors.
 
Rockwood said:
I was joking about putting an oil reminder on the switch. I fail. :ROFLMAO:

Yeah, the part where it goes into the heat shrink is a bend point with a weight next to it. If it’s not connected to an adjacent wire, even in looming, the connector will bounce and fatigue the wire, breaking it inside the insulation. I found this out the hard way with mine and those connectors.
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I am not tracking 100%. Do you have a pic of what your talking about?
 
JM PRO said:
I am not tracking 100%. Do you have a pic of what you’re talking about?
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No pic. But bend the wire with the splice in it. It will make a sharp bend where the splice ends. Copper isn’t very fatigue resistant, and the constant bouncing and solid engine mount vibration in a buggy means it can fail quickly.

Should amend the above though. Guaranteed? Nope. But in my case, it was a major PITA to chase down if it fails since it only loses connection if the wire bends. Made me think I had an ignition issue, not an ignition wire issue.

Mac said:
I did tape around the bundle about every foot and if more than 2 splices in that foot, I put an extra tape wrap.

The solder heatshrink splices really do a great job. They glue into the insulation on the wire too.
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Yeah. They’re great for strain relief since it grabs the insulation so well.
 
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Coming out awesome! I wish I would have depinned my engine harness and used the techflex sleeve and heatshrink like you did. I just used the split loom and TessaTape on mine. I may end up redoing it this summer like yours. It just looks too clean.
 
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So happy for you and proud of you for sticking with it and doing it yourself. Good job dood!!!
 
Thanks for sharing your build man!! Nothing but the best! Most definitely, MACnificent!!!
 
Mac said:
Pretty much done with the wiring. Tomorrow I'll program the SwitchPro and test everything out. Definitely happy with how it's turned out. I wanted clean and organized wiring, this now all makes ls sense to me.
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Couple of questions. For the main power wires from battery to distribution block it looks like you used 4awg?

Also, it looks like you went from the switch pro outputs to a termination block? What is the reason behind this?

I am going to wire my car over the summer and really dig how yours came out.
 
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on post 152 10th pic there is a bolt hole in the side of the block that should be siliconed closed (both sides) or it lets sand in the bellhousing area
 
Mac said:
Lots of work this weekend. Got the engine harness married with the computer harness. Checked, loomed, heat shrunk and now installed. I did forget one sleeve of heat shrink and ended up unwinding the main connectors to slide a piece on. After all this work, I wasn't going to have one joint with electrical tape....dammit.

Got the harness installed and terminated to the relay panel. Played around with routing to make sure I had slack and nothing touching where it would get hot. I had to drill and tap a couple spots to get clamps where I wanted them. I had to order more clamps to start going over the hoses.

The next steps are to start terminating accessories and the ECU power supply to the SwitchPro.

Other mentionables....Got the rear suspension powder coated, ordering GearOne super CVs and waiting to finish the engine setup before installing the rear suspension.
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this attention to detail is top notch! 🤩
 
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Mac said:
We have power!

Having a configuration issue. Everything works as advertised with the exception of ECU power. It comes on but when you try and turn it off through the SwitchPro, it cycles the fans and won't turn off. You have to kill the battery.
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I assume you have something back-feeding the ECU switched circuit. With the battery unplugged, use a DMM and probe for continuity from the ECU trigger coming out of the Switch Pro to the output side of the relays for the fans and other ECU-on circuits to see if you're looping power somewhere.

Clean ass yob though, and looks actually functional, not just pretty.
 
Mac said:
We have power!

Having a configuration issue. Everything works as advertised with the exception of ECU power. It comes on but when you try and turn it off through the SwitchPro, it cycles the fans and won't turn off. You have to kill the battery.
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Are your fan relays still grounded by the FT?
 
Mac said:
Not sure I'm following.

I have a power distribution that has a main battery disconnect. From there, the power distribution feeds the relay power through breakers and the Switchpro. From the Switchpro, I have a main power on/off (button 8) then an ECU button to turn the ECU on (button7).

Everything is working with the exception that the Switchpro is not turning off the ECU. Once the relay is latched, it's not unlatching. I read out the Switchpro distribution and it is controlling power but the ECU circuit is only dropping to 6 volts and staying latched. Still troubleshooting this. I've removed wires form the relay and trying different combinations to try and figure this out.
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There's probably one sad little strand of wire, or something stupid like an alternator light, somewhere making continuity back to the battery on the ECU's switched power wire (output of the Switch Pro). Either the ECU turns on relays (fuel pump, fans, ignition) that are then backfeeding the ECU switched power, or something else is hinky. Ruling out the switch pro would be just unplugging the output of it, or pulling the power terminal from it.

If that doesn't do it, the above procedure would be how you'd check for which circuit is back-feeding. Just set the DMM to Ohms with the sound chime:

1741290254153.png

Put one probe on the ECU's switched power wire, then the other on shit that turns on FROM the ECU (like fuel pump, fans, that kind of shit) and see if you hear the chime go off to narrow it down. Only other thing I can think of is some constant + source from the battery is bridged over VERY slightly. Not enough to fire the ECU and associated relays, but enough to keep it going once energized.
 
there are ground loops possible with some ecus. all powers must come from a "main relay" post ecu. so the switch pro should only power up the ecu input (nothing else) it would be common for folks to have this same wire power up the ecu also give power to the 86 coil side of the relays--you "cant do that" or anything like it. (with some ecus) to change that routing the ecu gets a dedicated input from switch pro, then the ecu grounds a realy that can then supply power to the 86 pin of all relays, etc

try pulling all your relays. power up ecu and then see if it turns off. if it does then you have a looping issue going on
 
Mac said:
03/07 UPDATE

Electrical all checks out.

The issue was one wire was connected on the wrong really pole and yes, causing a looping issue. (@John@Outfront , Thanks for the input). So a reposition of that wire and everything works as advertised. I was cringing at the idea that I might have something off in my harness after all the work I put into it.
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cool!
 
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