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I had to pressure bleed using what felt like a gallon of brake fluid for them to work correctly and I did a residual valve which helped a ton.
 
I couldn’t get my brakes bled until I bought a positive pressure type bleeder. Once I got that it took less than 15 mins
 
Johnny said:
You Can't go wrong with this harbor freight bleeder, My car for some reason had a issue with air getting trapped in the cutting brake, I broke down and got this from harbor freight , It will suck every air bubble out of your lines, It is a little expensive but it works great.
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I tried two different vacuum style bleeders like that one and couldn’t get the air out. I went with a positive pressure style and it worked much better. Only issue with these is you maybe to make a custom cap to fit your master to attach the air feed hose. I went with this one and it worked great:

 
When you say you have good pressure on one caliper is it actually clamping or just moving the pistons? Brake pedal is firm when this happens? Is the master higher than the calipers when bleeding?
 
Did you put bigger calipers (more pistons) on your car? Just searching for a reason although air in the system does strange things. High points in the system that would trap air?
 
Mac said:
It's clamping and it's firm. Then you move to the next caliper and nothing. So then you bleed and build the second caliper up...back to the first and nothing.
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If you just let it sit for a second, will it lose pressure and go back to a soft squishy piece of carp? If so, you have a bubble.

The turning brake is usually the culprit. If the bleeder is lower than the rest of the bore/piston area, you'll never easily get air out of there. Even if so, the lines tend to trap some air as well going to/from it. I've had luck with pumping up the brakes, cracking the bleeder, then slowly/continuously pulling up on the turning brake and getting your helper to close the bleeder before the fluid stops moving. If you don't, whatever bubble is in there tends to just travel back into the turning brakes or high spot and camp out some more, stalling fluid flow and wasting gallons of brake fluid (as you've discovered).
 
Same problem im having. Till this day i cant get my cutting brake to work. Im fkn tired of the stupid thing. I already rebuilt it thinking i had bad seals (thats how bad it is) and still doing the same thing. There is absolutely no pressure on “top” cutting brake plunger
 
Buy a couple gallons of brake fluid and pressure bleed. I would usually start at the back and you will be amazed at how many bubbles come out. Once a gallon or so has been ran through the two rear lines I start with the front wheels and then the back. Takes quite a while but its the only way I could get all the air out. I had the simple Schrader valve on the master cap way. yes it takes a shit ton of time and you have to make sure the master does not run dry either. I only ran about 5-8 PSI through the system when I would do it.
 
A residual valve won't help. I had a power bleeder years ago and it didn't work for shit. I bleed all brakes the same way- One person, usually my son or daughter, is in the car. Pump the brake pedal three times SLOWLY and hold, I crack the bleeder, release air/fluid, close the bleeder, pump the brake pedal three times SLOWY and hold, I crack the bleeder, release the air/fluid, close the bleeder. After I do both sides three times I top off the master cylinder. Once the brake pedal feels good I bleed the turning brake.

A month ago I installed a new turning brake into a client's car. The car didn't have one before so I made new brake lines to each caliper and to the master cylinder. I bled the brakes the same way I always do and got a solid pedal and turning brake.
 
you can use a thera gun of some type of vibrating device:cool: and run it over the turn brake or any other problem areas that are believed to trap air.
 
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