What Fuel pump for 6.2 LS3

HTElectrical

HTElectrical

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My last trip on the very last run at St. Anthony's my car just died about halfway thru the dunes.  Waited a couple of minutes and it fired back up.  Decided to head back to IDRV, and make it about 5 minutes or so, and it cuts out again.  Rinse and repeat 3 more times and finally back at IDRV.  Swapped out the fuel pump relay and that didn't help.  Now I am not 100% sure that it is the fuel pump, but if it is, I wanted options for a new pump.  I am currently running a Mallory Marine Electric Fuel Pumps 11106M.  It was $229.95, and now they want $278.95.  The pump (if it is the problem) did not even last a year. 

I am using Aeromotive Filter, and filter.  Fuel pressure is fine at 58 PSI, (at least when it is idling and revving while stationary.

I would appreciate suggestions on a DEPENDABLE external pump that doesn't break the bank.

Thanks in advance.

 
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I’ve been using a Bosch 044 pump for the last several years with no issues. However, they are still around $250. If you go this route, make sure to buy from a reputable source, there are tons of counterfeits out there. 
 

For reference, my engine is the LS 376/525 (LS3)

 
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If you do Aeromotive, go Brushless.

I have gone through a few of the normal A1000.  

Brushless has much better reviews.

Weldon is also a great pump.

Don't discount filters.  Even with good fuel pressure at idle/revving, it might be clogged which affects driving under power.

Usually fuel pumps either work or they don't.

 
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@DZRTRUNdidn't you smoke a couple of brand new Weldon pump when the Joker was new?

 
I run a bosch 044, always have the same problem in Idaho.  If I run my side panel off it gets more air over the pump and works fine. Pretty sure mine is a heat issue,  my radiator blows right on it.

 
I have a 044, left over from when I had my Subi motor.  I haven't checked my filters yet, that is next on the list, but it didn't really make sense that it would run fine for 10 minutes then just die.  Wait 30 sec to 1 minute, and then run fine again for 10 minutes.  The last test I did after changing relays I left IDRV and it died just before the flagpole just when you enter the dunes.  Waited 30 seconds or so, turned around and drove back to camp.

 
Dzrtrat1111 said:
I’ve been using a Bosch 044 pump for the last several years with no issues. However, they are still around $250. If you go this route, make sure to buy from a reputable source, there are tons of counterfeits out there. 
 

For reference, my engine is the LS 376/525 (LS3)
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So is mine.

 
TerryP said:
I run a bosch 044, always have the same problem in Idaho.  If I run my side panel off it gets more air over the pump and works fine. Pretty sure mine is a heat issue,  my radiator blows right on it.
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My pump and both filters are about 1 ft below the radiator just above my fuel tank.

 
HTElectrical said:
I have a 044, left over from when I had my Subi motor.  I haven't checked my filters yet, that is next on the list, but it didn't really make sense that it would run fine for 10 minutes then just die.  Wait 30 sec to 1 minute, and then run fine again for 10 minutes.  The last test I did after changing relays I left IDRV and it died just before the flagpole just when you enter the dunes.  Waited 30 seconds or so, turned around and drove back to camp.
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Pump could be getting hot and shutting off. Cools down and runs again, gets hot again. Or could be restricted filters. Or the pump is old and needs to be swapped out.

My son's Tatum with an Outfront turbo Subie on E85 was getting harder and harder to start last season. Planned to have John tune it this summer so he prepped the car. Found both fuel filters plugged with sand. Fresh filters and the car fires up wayyyy easier now.

 
L.R.S. said:
Pump could be getting hot and shutting off. Cools down and runs again, gets hot again. Or could be restricted filters. Or the pump is old and needs to be swapped out.

My son's Tatum with an Outfront turbo Subie on E85 was getting harder and harder to start last season. Planned to have John tune it this summer so he prepped the car. Found both fuel filters plugged with sand. Fresh filters and the car fires up wayyyy easier now.
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Pump isn't even 1 year old.  I have to The 7" Aero filters, and my tank is spotless, so I doubt it is a filter issue.  But you never know.  I wouldn't think it was over heating.  Pump and both filters are in front of motor and above the aluminum fuel tank.  Like I said, the radiator is at least 1 ft. above the set-up, and the only real heat source is the transaxle which is below a custom aluminum fuel tank.  The Aeromotive A1000 is only $150 more, and seems to have a better rep.  It is also rebuild-able isn't it?

 
Rockwood said:
Any of the above will work.  Bosch is by far the most common, so if you lose one out in the dunes, chances are you get direct swap the fittings to your replacement from Joe Fab or whatever.  If you get one, don't get it through Amazon.  Reputable local company like @Fullthrottleguy would be the best bet:

https://www.racereadyproducts.com/fuel-pumps/bosch-fi-electric-fuel-pumps/
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Thanks @Rockwood The Bosch 044 has been the goto for a long time, and we still sell a lot although they did change the part number because of knockoffs and prices have gone up - the problem today is that everything Bosch is being knocked off and its really hard to tell - Nearly if not everything Bosch  on Amazon and ebay is not real Bosch, and they fail - and often 

IMO if you get a real Bosch you will be happy  ... I feel Aeromotive and weldon are somewhat overpriced and old tech. The new Brushless stuff is great  but  expensive.  There are also many  "bosch 044" size pumps out there like full flow , fuel flow, and quantum, most are not very good .

The best buy for performance and reliability today is the AEM 400LPH  but  there are many knock off of those too (check AEM's website for the story)  You cannot beat the price and can buy a spare  or two or three for the price of a weldon or Aeromotive.  I run them on everything for the last few years, and we put them on so many Baja Race cars and pre runners this year and they are tough on everything - No failures so far ...

they were designed for high pressure, draw less power than the 044, and don't fall off fast at higher pressure like nearly every other non brushless pump 

whatever you go with run a good filter in front (100micron) they'll last longer

 
HTElectrical said:
Pump isn't even 1 year old.  I have to The 7" Aero filters, and my tank is spotless, so I doubt it is a filter issue.  But you never know.  I wouldn't think it was over heating.  Pump and both filters are in front of motor and above the aluminum fuel tank.  Like I said, the radiator is at least 1 ft. above the set-up, and the only real heat source is the transaxle which is below a custom aluminum fuel tank.  The Aeromotive A1000 is only $150 more, and seems to have a better rep.  It is also rebuild-able isn't it?
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I've heard they can be rebuilt but I've never done one myself.  I ran an A1000 on my car for a few years and it was flawless.  I swapped to E85 and had to upgrade to the Dominator pump.  The A1000 would have been right at the edge maximum flow for E85.

 
L.R.S. said:
I've heard they can be rebuilt but I've never done one myself.  I ran an A1000 on my car for a few years and it was flawless.  I swapped to E85 and had to upgrade to the Dominator pump.  The A1000 would have been right at the edge maximum flow for E85.
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Yup. Aeromotive will rebuild your pump. At least that was the case two years ago.

 
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