Warning if you have a Ford 3.5 Duratec engines.

NIKAL

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Ford’s V6 3.5 Duratec engines which were put in many Ford models. Edge, Explorer, Flex, Fusion sport, Taurus, F150, some Lincoln & Mazda SUV’s have a huge design flaw!

The water Pump!! 

I just learned last week that Ford designed this engine to have an internal water pump. What that means is the water pump is behind the timing gears and is driven off the timing gear. 

The issue is that when the pump leaks or fails the water goes directly into the oil pan! Great design Ford!!  When this happens it destroys the engine. 

There was a lawsuit that Ford got thrown out as they claim the water pump is a maintenance part that should be replace between 100K and 150k miles. Cost is around $1500 to change as the engine needs to be dropped. 

My wife has a 2012 Ford Edge that just turned 100k miles. Cars always garaged, not a scratch, and was always serviced by the Lincoln dealer, as I had a relationship with them. So it’s in great condition!  I was planning on scheduling for its 100K service when she was driving it on the freeway and the dash lit up. She barely got off the freeway before it stalled. When I got to the car, I checked it and it started and seemed fine, minus the check engine light. So I drove it a few blocks to get the code read. It showed a crank sensor failed. I had it towed to the shop to find out the water pump was leaking water in the engine and it’s basically destroyed. 
 

So now I’m putting a brand new Ford short block in it, reusing the heads from the original engine. They will get fully rebuilt but it’s cheaper then a long block. When all said & done I’m in it for $5500. Totally sucks, but the car is in great shape and is worth more then doubled the cost to repair. New cars are hard to get and over priced right now. So for now we will fix and drive it. But ouch! $5500!!! BTW I’m not using the dealer as the price would be another $2 grand + more. I’m using a engine shop recommended to me by another repair shop I trust. 
 

If you have a Ford with a Duratec V6 you might want to check this, as without warning you could have your water pump leak right into the oil pan destroying your engine. It happens in minutes without even knowing or getting a warning. 

 
Ouch that really bites hopefully your post will save someone else the headache.

Another of Ford’s better ideas the light bulb burned out on

 
Kind of like when the starter is put into engine valley.....  @ least with the starter it wont leak water into the engine....

 
Ford’s V6 3.5 Duratec engines which were put in many Ford models. Edge, Explorer, Flex, Fusion sport, Taurus, F150, some Lincoln & Mazda SUV’s have a huge design flaw!

The water Pump!! 

I just learned last week that Ford designed this engine to have an internal water pump. What that means is the water pump is behind the timing gears and is driven off the timing gear. 

The issue is that when the pump leaks or fails the water goes directly into the oil pan! Great design Ford!!  When this happens it destroys the engine. 

There was a lawsuit that Ford got thrown out as they claim the water pump is a maintenance part that should be replace between 100K and 150k miles. Cost is around $1500 to change as the engine needs to be dropped. 

My wife has a 2012 Ford Edge that just turned 100k miles. Cars always garaged, not a scratch, and was always serviced by the Lincoln dealer, as I had a relationship with them. So it’s in great condition!  I was planning on scheduling for its 100K service when she was driving it on the freeway and the dash lit up. She barely got off the freeway before it stalled. When I got to the car, I checked it and it started and seemed fine, minus the check engine light. So I drove it a few blocks to get the code read. It showed a crank sensor failed. I had it towed to the shop to find out the water pump was leaking water in the engine and it’s basically destroyed. 
 

So now I’m putting a brand new Ford short block in it, reusing the heads from the original engine. They will get fully rebuilt but it’s cheaper then a long block. When all said & done I’m in it for $5500. Totally sucks, but the car is in great shape and is worth more then doubled the cost to repair. New cars are hard to get and over priced right now. So for now we will fix and drive it. But ouch! $5500!!! BTW I’m not using the dealer as the price would be another $2 grand + more. I’m using a engine shop recommended to me by another repair shop I trust. 
 

If you have a Ford with a Duratec V6 you might want to check this, as without warning you could have your water pump leak right into the oil pan destroying your engine. It happens in minutes without even knowing or getting a warning. 
We lost the engine in our 2012 Explorer at 104K. Garage kept and dealer serviced. Loved the car but sold it shortly afterwards.

 
We lost the engine in our 2012 Explorer at 104K. Garage kept and dealer serviced. Loved the car but sold it shortly afterwards.
Do you know what caused the failure? Water pump or something else? 

 
Is this the engine they stopped making in 2012?  3.0 liter

Virtually every gas engine they make now has the Duratec badge on them





Name


Family


Displacements


Year


Features




Duratec 8v 60 PS


Kent (Endura-E)


1.3 L (79.3 CID; 1299 cc)


1995–present


OHV I4




Duratec 8v 70 PS


Ford Sigma engine (Zetec RoCam)


1.3 L (79.1 CID; 1297 cc)
1.6 L (97.45 CID; 1597 cc)


2000–2014


SOHC I4




Duratec


Ford Sigma engine


1.25 L  (1242 cc)
1.4 L  (1388 cc)
1.6 L  (1596 cc)


2002–present


 




Duratec Ti-VCT


Ford Sigma engine


1.5 L  (1499 cc)


2013–present


 




Duratec Ti-VCT


Ford Sigma engine


1.6 L  (1596 cc)


2004–present


 




Duratec-ST
Duratec RS


Ford Zeta engine


2.0 L (122 CID; 1999 cc)


1998–2004


DOHC I4




Volvo Modular engine


2.5 L  (2521 cc)


2003–2010


turbocharged DOHC I5




Duratec


Mazda L engine


1.8 L (110 CID; 1798 cc)
2.0 L (122 CID; 1999 cc)
2.3 L (138 CID; 2261 cc)
2.5 L (152 CID; 2488 cc)


2001–present


DOHC I4




Duratec SCi


Mazda L engine


1.8 L (110 CID; 1798 cc)


2003–2007


DOHC GDI I4 Ti-VCT




Duratec-HE
Duratec FFV


Mazda L engine


1.8 L (110 CID; 1798 cc)
2.0 L (122 CID; 1999 cc)


2005–present


DOHC I4




Duratec-HE Ti-VCT


Mazda L engine


2.0 L (122 CID; 1999 cc)


2010–present


DOHC GDI I4




Duratec V6/VE/25


Ford Duratec V6 engine


2.5 L (155 CID; 2544 cc)


1993–2002


DOHC V6




Duratec 30


Ford Duratec V6 engine


3.0 L (181 CID; 2967 cc)


1996–2012


DOHC V6




Duratec 33


Ford Cyclone V6 Engine


3.3 L (204 CID; 3337 cc)


2018–present


DOHC V6




Duratec 35


Ford Cyclone V6 Engine


3.5 L (213 CID; 3496 cc)


2006–present


DOHC V6




Duratec 37


Ford Cyclone V6 Engine


3.7 L (227 CID; 3721 cc)


2008–present


DOHC V6




 
Do you know what caused the failure? Water pump or something else? 
They said ours dropped a valve. We just put in a low mileage used one, drove it for a few months and sold it.

I am a Ford fan, and still own multiple. But that was horsesh!t!!!

 
Is this the engine they stopped making in 2012?  3.0 liter

Virtually every gas engine they make now has the Duratec badge on them





Name


Family


Displacements


Year


Features




Duratec 8v 60 PS


Kent (Endura-E)


1.3 L (79.3 CID; 1299 cc)


1995–present


OHV I4




Duratec 8v 70 PS


Ford Sigma engine (Zetec RoCam)


1.3 L (79.1 CID; 1297 cc)
1.6 L (97.45 CID; 1597 cc)


2000–2014


SOHC I4




Duratec


Ford Sigma engine


1.25 L  (1242 cc)
1.4 L  (1388 cc)
1.6 L  (1596 cc)


2002–present


 




Duratec Ti-VCT


Ford Sigma engine


1.5 L  (1499 cc)


2013–present


 




Duratec Ti-VCT


Ford Sigma engine


1.6 L  (1596 cc)


2004–present


 




Duratec-ST
Duratec RS


Ford Zeta engine


2.0 L (122 CID; 1999 cc)


1998–2004


DOHC I4




Volvo Modular engine


2.5 L  (2521 cc)


2003–2010


turbocharged DOHC I5




Duratec


Mazda L engine


1.8 L (110 CID; 1798 cc)
2.0 L (122 CID; 1999 cc)
2.3 L (138 CID; 2261 cc)
2.5 L (152 CID; 2488 cc)


2001–present


DOHC I4




Duratec SCi


Mazda L engine


1.8 L (110 CID; 1798 cc)


2003–2007


DOHC GDI I4 Ti-VCT




Duratec-HE
Duratec FFV


Mazda L engine


1.8 L (110 CID; 1798 cc)
2.0 L (122 CID; 1999 cc)


2005–present


DOHC I4




Duratec-HE Ti-VCT


Mazda L engine


2.0 L (122 CID; 1999 cc)


2010–present


DOHC GDI I4




Duratec V6/VE/25


Ford Duratec V6 engine


2.5 L (155 CID; 2544 cc)


1993–2002


DOHC V6




Duratec 30


Ford Duratec V6 engine


3.0 L (181 CID; 2967 cc)


1996–2012


DOHC V6




Duratec 33


Ford Cyclone V6 Engine


3.3 L (204 CID; 3337 cc)


2018–present


DOHC V6




Duratec 35


Ford Cyclone V6 Engine


3.5 L (213 CID; 3496 cc)


2006–present


DOHC V6




Duratec 37


Ford Cyclone V6 Engine


3.7 L (227 CID; 3721 cc)


2008–present


DOHC V6
This is the Duratec 35.

 
Is the water pump behind the timing gear in the trucks?  This seems to say it is only on the transverse engines unless I am reading it wrong.

The Duratec 35 displaces 3.5 L; 213.3 cu in (3,496 cc) with a 92.5 mm × 86.7 mm (3.64 in × 3.41 in) bore and stroke. Due to packaging differences in transverse applications, the water pump is relocated to the valley behind the timing cover and is driven by the timing chain. The 3.5 L engine will fit into any engine bay the smaller Duratec 3.0 L will, and replaced it in some applications (notably the Ford Taurus) in the 2008 model year. Production began in 2006 for the Ford EdgeLincoln MKX, and Lincoln MKZ.

 
Sounds like Ford needs to look at how Nissan engineers an internal water pump. Could see how it may not be possible though. But Not having a way for the coolant to leak on the ground when a water pump fails is an absurd design.



 
They made the same mistake with the 6.4 diesel. My brother had a dgas cap fail in his at 35k miles, this caused enough cavitation in the water pump that it wore a hole in the timing case. 8k$ later he was back in business until the next failure of his dpf system shortly after. He had that truck for about 16k miles and dumped over 20k$ into it before traded it in with under 50k miles on a new dodge in 2019. What a pos that truck was.

 
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Is the water pump behind the timing gear in the trucks?  This seems to say it is only on the transverse engines unless I am reading it wrong.

The Duratec 35 displaces 3.5 L; 213.3 cu in (3,496 cc) with a 92.5 mm × 86.7 mm (3.64 in × 3.41 in) bore and stroke. Due to packaging differences in transverse applications, the water pump is relocated to the valley behind the timing cover and is driven by the timing chain. The 3.5 L engine will fit into any engine bay the smaller Duratec 3.0 L will, and replaced it in some applications (notably the Ford Taurus) in the 2008 model year. Production began in 2006 for the Ford EdgeLincoln MKX, and Lincoln MKZ.
Doesn't appear to be:


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PW602-RIT__ra_p.jpg


 
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19 minutes ago, Rockwood said:

Doesn't appear to be:

Thats the ecoboost 3.5.  He is talking about the naturally asperated version 3.5.

 
Planned Obsolescence doing its thing.  Peas . . .

 
Wife had a few Edges and an Explore with that motor.  Was never impressed with the motor.  She leased the cars so never had them long enough for any issues.  The Ecoboost version is much better.  

 
Just reviving and posting an update. 
 

So we put a brand new Ford short block in the Ford Edge. I was tempted to do a long block, but Action Cylinder Heads who was doing the engine swap is an actual machine shop. They said the heads are pretty much bullet proof and there is no need to do a long block, when the can rebuild the heads and be $1400 cheaper then a long block from Ford. I still have a 2 year warranty on the short block from Ford, and the shop gives a 1 year on his part, but for another $200 they add 2 more years. So I have 2 years on Ford and 3 years on the shop, parts, labor, everything. 

I can say they did a great job and the car runs great. After 500 miles we brought it back and they do a oil change, and check everything out. We did notice the AC was not blowing as cold, so he did a second re-charge, and that fixed the issue. 
 

We ended up spending a little more then the original $5300 quoted, as we did a new radiator, (was actually cheap) new hoses, new crank & cam sensors, again cheap, and we’re all Ford parts. So we ended up around $5800, and he also took care of the AC recharge and alinement as the front suspension is removed to get the engine out. 
 

So while a crappy deal, and took almost 3 weeks to do Everything turned out good and my wife who was totally hesitant and wanted to just go out and buy a new car in this shortage. She’s now fine and has no issues with it.  
 

BTW found out the Ford 2.7 Ecoboost that’s going in the Bronco has the same concept/design, timing cover/water pump/oil cooler passage. So “F” that! I have not formally cancelled my order, but I don’t plan on buying another Ford stupid ass design! 

 
Just reviving and posting an update. 
 

Action Cylinder Heads who was doing the engine swap....but for another $200 they add 2 more years.


Make sure YOU keep a copy of that 2 yr extended warranty paperwork safe and in a handy place where you know where it is. He says he does not keep records and requires you to bring in your copy for proof of the warranty. I some how lost my copy (not sure how I think we have every receipt ever brought into this house in the last 19yrs in a file cabinet) so I was SOL as far as the warranty extension. I will say that he was nice enough to look at the issue on my WJ and attempt to diagnose it for no charge. 

 
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